Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 1: Planning the Site Seminar

@ Kazhugumalai Photo courtesy: Ms Ramamani Jeyaraman

@ Kazhugumalai Photo courtesy: Kishore Mahadevan

@ Kazhugumalai Vettuvankoil Photo courtesy: Kishore Mahadevan

For the last five years, Tamil Heritage Trust (THT), an organization of heritage lovers in Chennai, have been organizing the site seminar every year as annual event. 'Prof Swaminathan mooted and organized the concept of a Site Seminar, to familiarize a few individuals passionately interested in the heritage of the Tamil country, but clueless about where and how to start.'  Table 1 shows the list of site seminars organized by Tamil Heritage Trust.

Table 1. List of Site Seminars Organized by Tamil Heritage Trust

Year	Name of the Site Seminar	Place or Region	State
2010	Mamallapuram Site Seminar Athyanthakaama Ashrama Vijaya	Mamallapuram	Tamil Nadu
2011	Ajanta and Ellora Site Seminar Paranjothi Yathirai	Ajanta & Ellora	Maharashtra
2012	Mukkudai Yathirai	Pudukkottai District	Tamil Nadu
2013	Site Seminar: Srirangam Tiruvaranga Ulaa	Srirangam	Tamil Nadu
2014	Gurjari Yatra - Gujarat Site Seminar	Gujarat Select Monuments	Gujarat
2015	Pandyan Yatra	Tirunelveli Region Select Monuments	Tamil Nadu

For the sixth site seminar 2015, 'the southern sections of Pandyan territory, centered around Tirunelveli region' was identified as the heritage site for and the Pandyan Yatra was undertaken by a team of 24 members between January 23 Friday and January 27 Tuesday 2015, both dates inclusive. I was one of the fortunate participant of the Pandyan Yatra.

THT's Pandyan Yatra was NOT a religious tour, or a pleasure trip or sightseeing excursion. Instead Pandyan Yatra clearly focused to cover only on art, archaeology, architecture, epigraphy, history, iconography aspects of the monuments.  The purpose of Pandyan Yatra was to intensely explore the heritage of the southern sections of Pandyan territory for deeper understanding the heritage of the region. 

Tirunelveli region was under the rule of the Pandya Dynasty and was known as 'Thenpandiyanadu'. The Imperial Cholas included this region under the province called 'Mudikonda Cholamandalam'. The Madurai Nayakas preferred to call it as 'Tirunelveli Seemai'. The British East India Company formulated the 'Tinnevelly district', which was composed of the present Tirunelveli and Thoothukudi districts and parts of the Virudhunagar and Ramanathapuram districts.

Map of Tirunelveli Region

The region also comprise all five geographical traditions of Sangam Tamil Literature: Kurinji (mountains), Mullai (forest), Marudham (paddy fields), Neithal (coastal) and Palai (desert). Ancient holy hill 'Pothigai,' the abode of Tamil sage Agasthiyar (who developed Tamil language) forms part of this region. The   crawling   clouds  on the Western Ghats, the picturesque Pothigai hills and the Kurtallam water falls are  the  special features which make  Tirunelveli  unique. Tirunelveli region is blessed with the perennial river Thamirabharani - the lifeline of the region and forms the major river basin in this region. The other  streams include Vaippar, Nambiar and Hanumanathi. The fertile land is blessed with lush green paddy fields, coconut groves, banana plantations,  water-falls and palm trees add a picturesque dimension. The region is dotted with many early Pandyan rock-cut caves and well-preserved structured temples built by Pandyas, Cholas and Nayakas.

Since the culturally rich Tirunelveli region is very vast, it is not easy to travel the entire region. Therefore the site seminar set to catch a glimpse of the region's heritage and planned to focus on some specified heritage monuments as shown in Table 2:

Table 2: Itinerary of Pandyan Yatra 2015

Date	Monuments	Region
23 Jan 2015	Kazhugumalai - Jain Monastery,	Kovilpatti Region
	Kazhugumalai - Vettuvankoil,
	Kazhugumalai - Kazhugachalamurthy Temple
24 Jan 2015	Malayadikurichi Rock cut Cave of Early Pandya	Sankarankovil Region
	Thirumalapuram Rock cut Cave of Early Pandya
	Singampatti Zamin Palace located near the foothills of Manjolai Estate
	Kutraleeswaran Temple and Chitra Sabha - one of five dancing halls of Lord Nataraja
25 Jan 2015	Mannar Koil Rajagoplalaswami Temple. Ashtanga Vimana.	Ambasamudram Region
	Thiruvalivaram Tiruvalisvarar Temple
	Brahmadesam Temple
	Kallidaikurichi Temples
	Ambasamudram Temples,
	Thirupudaimarudur Temple
	Cheranmadevi Bhakthavatsala Perumal Temple
26 Jan 2015	Tirukurungudi Nambi Temple (108 Divya Desam)	Nanguneri & Tirunelveli Region
	Tirunelveli - Palayankottai Museum,
	Nellaiappar Temple,
	Nanguneri Vanamamalai Perumal Temple
27 Jan 2015	Srivaikuntam Vaikuntanathaswami temple Navatirupati (108 Divya Desam)	Toothukudi Region
	Alwartirunagari Temple Navatirupati (108 Divya Desam)
	Tirukolur. Temples
	Krishnapuram Temple

Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure

Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure

Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure

The participants were provided with best available information to ensure a successful journey. The Pandyan yatra 2015 was slightly modified from the itinerary shown in Table 2 in terms of timing of visit and few cancellations and additions of places.

The participants organized number of weekend preparatory site seminar meetings on Sundays during 16th November 2014 - 18th January 2015 and invited few persons, who are familiar with these sites, to deliver the series of pre-visit lectures and power-point presentations. The participants also research out  on one or two places of interest and shared information through presentations. 

Arkay Center is conveniently located in Mylapore, and Mr Ramakrishnan has been very kindly hosting preparatory site seminar meeting there. V Chandrasekhar, has very kindly offered his house at "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41 and his residence has often been the venue for most site seminar meetings.. 

Table 3: The preparatory lectures for the Sixth Site Seminar:

Date	Talk on
16.11.2014	History of the Pandyas -Sangam, Early and Imperial by Ramakrishnan at  Arkay Center, Mylapore
30.11.2014	Iraiyanar Agapporul - a book on Tamil grammar, which changed the nature and subjects of Tamil Literature by Badri Seshadri  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	MaduraiKanchi - a Sangam era epic that describes the city in that period by Badri Seshadri  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
14.12.2014	Madurai Sultanate The fall of the Pandyas & Muslim rule in Madurai by Ravishankar Thiagarajan  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	Singing along the Tambraparni - Verses from the Thevaram and Prabhandam by Pradeep Chakravarthi Navneet Krishnan has accompany Pradeep by singing some of these compositions.  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
21.12.2014	Nanguneri Temple and Vanamamalai Mutt by Deivanayagam   "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	Pandyan Cave Temples & Monoliths by Vijayakumar.S (Poetry in Stone)    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
11.1.2015	Pandya temples by K.S Sankaranarayanan    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	Jina Images of Kazhugumalai as seen by Lisa by Ravishankar Thiagarajan    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
18.1.2015	Nellaiyappar and Kanthimathi Amman Temple by Siva Thiyagarajan and Kishore   "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41

 
The following documents were shared 'Athyanthakama' Yahoo Group:

1. பாண்டிய நாட்டில் பயணமும் படிப்பும் Kanaka Ajithadoss (Yahoo Group 20.11.2014)
2. Jaina Images of Kazhugumalai (PDF) shared 

The following documents published elsewhere were included in the Guide 'Pandyan Yantra':

1. A new Pandya Record and the Dates of Nayanmars and Azhvars  by Nagaswami R
2. A Brahmadeya Gift by Pandya Arikeari  by Nagaswami R
3. Kalugumalai: Jain Images by Dr. Lisa N. Owen
4. Malaiyadikurichi Inscriptions Tell Tales  by Pradeepchakravrthi
5. Nellaiyappar Temple: Rare kritis by Pradeepchakravrthi
6. Dakshinamurti on vimanas of Vishnu temples by RKK Rajarajan
7. நின்றிருந்துகிடந்த நெடியோன் ஜெயமோகன் November 24,2010 (http://www.jeyamohan.in/9346)
8. ஸ்ரீவைகுண்டம் ஆழ்வார்திருநகரி கிருஷ்ணாபுரம் ஜெயமோகன்

Pandyan Yatra 2015 (Guide Book) THT

This is a travelogue of Pandyan Yatra 2015 covering around 20 heritage monuments in 5 days. Traveling through 'Tirunelveli Seemai' is a fulfilling experience if you are a lover of culture, heritage and history. 'Tirunelveli Seemai' is the heritage land of the south and the cradle of ancient Thamirabharani river line civilization. The Thamirabharani river valley on either side of the river is fertile and there are large acres of lush green paddy fields, coconut groves and banana plantations. The lofty temple towers and the tall and imposing temple walls in the backdrop of majestic and picturesque Western ghats invited us  It gives me inspiration and satisfaction to bring you a travelogue of Pandyan Yatra 2015.


I would like to profusely thank Prof.S.Swaminathan, S/shri Badri Seshadri, R.Gopu, Ashok Krishnaswami, Siva Thiagarajan, Kishore Mahadevan, guest speakers, Kizhakku Pathippagam staff, Temple staff and Priests, ASI staff, participants and all others for contributing to the success of Pandyan Yatra 2015.

Thirakoil Digambar Jain Temple and Hill

Jinagiri Palli (Thirakoil)

Chandranathar (8th Tirthankarar)

Jinagiri Palli (Thirakoil)

Parsvanathar the 23rd tirthankarar

Mahavir, the twenty-fourth tīrthaṅkarar

Foot-hill Temple Dedicated to Adhinathar with sanctum, antarala, ardhamantapam and mahamandapam, built after 'Jinagiri Palli' i.e, around 11th century AD. and the mahamandapam around 13th century AD.

Digambara Jain temple devoted Lord Adhinathar on top of Thirakoil hillock known as Mai Siddhappalli or Siddhaperumpalli.

Bas-relief image of Adhinathar measuring about 3 feet in height appear on one of the boulders located at the southern side of the foothills.

Our team of five members decided to explore Jain monuments in Tiruvannamalai district from dawn to dusk on Sunday, 1st September 2014. Ramesh Muthian, Jeyaganthan and me assembled at a point and Devanathan Kannan was ready with his car by 05.30 am. We proceeded to Utharamerur and picked Sashi Dharan. Sashi Dharan desired to visit Kundhavai Jinalayam, Tirumalai village  near Polur and we proceeded to Vandhvasi and from there  we decided to  stop wherever a Jain monument appear.

The natural caverns, found in many hilly terrains of Tamil Nadu, served as Jain abodes.  More than one hundred Jain abodes have been identified archaeologists amidst rocky mounds and hillocks in Madurai, Pudukkottai, Periyar, Trichy, Tiruvannamalai, Vellore, Kanchipuram, Villupuram districts.  Jain abodes at natural cavern bear the earliest Brahmi incriptions dating back from 2nd century BC to 3rd or 4th century AD communicating the early spread of Jainism in Tamil Nadu.

Tiruvannamalai district has seven taluks - Arani, Chengam, Cheyyar, Polur, Thandarampattu, Tiruvannamalai and Vandhavasi. Except Chengam and Thandarampattu, the other taluks are historically huge Jain region with plenty of Jain monuments as old as 5th century CE showing Jain sculptures, Jain paintings and Jain Beds in caverns everywhere. But they do not posses Brahmi inscriptions. The Jain monks resolved to spend their lives in splendid isolation, engaging themselves in contemplation and religious pursuits. The Pallava and Chola monarchs have inscribed their 'Pallichandham' endowments, land and other grants, gifts etc, to these Jain shrines.

Our first stop was Thirakoil (Tamil: திறக்கோயில்) in the Vandavasi taluk, Tiruvannamalai district. This 8th Century AD Digambar Jain Temple and Hill devoted to Adhinathar (Rishabhanathar), the first Jain Tirthankar or or "ford-maker" forms one of the important Jain Tirth (pilgrimage) centers of Tamil Nadu.

Though there are number of Jain caves all over Thiruvannamalai district, not many are well known to the heritage lovers. Thirakoil is a "must go place" if you like Jain heritage and architecture. Better to visit with friends or family and needs to accompany with a person knowledgeable about the district and heritage destinations.  

Thirakoil, the tiny village is located one kilometer away from the Mazhaiyur - Desur - Thirakoil Road junction and can be reached here through private buses either from Desur or Kilputhur. The picturesque Thirakoil hillock and the scattered boulders runs through the village from north to north-east direction. Three modest, naturally formed caves in the hill were utilized as peaceful Jain Abodes (சமண பள்ளி) during 8th Century AD i.e, Pallava era. Now they are the old relics of the once flourishing Jainism in Tamil Nadu.

There are two ancient Digambar Jain Temples at Thirakoil Jain Temple complex. The most ancient among the two is the small square shaped ‘Adhinathar Shrine'  located on top of the Thirakoil hillock  and the second one is ‘Adhinathar Shrine’ at the foothills which came after one hundred years or so. The entire Thirakoil Jain Temple complex is protected by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).


To the south of the Thirakoil hillock and near to the entrance of the Thirakoil Temple complex lies 'Jinagiri Palli' (ஜினகிரி பள்ளி) the globular rock bearing the sculptures of four Jain tirthankars. ASI has enclosed this historical rock within iron grills.

1. Adhinathar aka. Rishabanathar first thirthakara appear seated in padmasana (lotus posture) in dhyana mudra (meditation) on a lion throne. Above him are Prabha-chakra (Divine Aura)  and triple umbrella. On his two sides are figures of chauri (whisk) bearers. The image faces east.

2. Mahavirar 24th thirthakara appear seated in padmasana (lotus posture) in dhyana mudra (meditation) on a lion throne.  Above him are Prabha-chakra (Divine Aura)  and triple umbrella.  On his two sides are figures of chauri (whisk) bearers. The image faces east. There is a niche for lighting oil lamp.

3. Parsvanathar 23rd thirthakara standing on lotus flower with five -hooded serpent canopy above his head. Around his shoulder level Kamada preparing to attack the saint with  stone. The  image of the Yaksha Dharanendra kneeling down before the Lord and the image of Yakshi Padmavati keep spreading the umbrella and protecting the Lord from Kamadan's attack.

4. Chandranathar aka C handraprabhar  appear seated in padmasana (lotus posture) in dhyana mudra (meditation) on a lion throne.  Above him are Prabha-chakra (Divine Aura)  and triple umbrella.  On his two sides are figures of chauri (whisk) bearers. The lotus pedestal bears crescent moon emblem.  The image faces north and receives the pilgrims at the entrance.
 

Three natural caverns mentioned above are located on the eastern and western sides of the hillock. At these natural caves number of Jain monks formed "Jain Muni Sangh" (Union of Jain monks) and observed meditation, practiced for self-recognition and purification.
 
The inscriptions at Jinagiri Palli address this place as Mai Siddhappalli ( .........மை சித்தப் பள்ளி). Since the first nine characters of the Tamil word group cannot be deciphered, the epigraphists read it as Mai Siddhappalli ( .........மை சித்தப் பள்ளி) and this name was coined by the scholars to address this temple. The word 'palli' (பள்ளி) has a strong association with Jainism and the ascetics used to call their education centre as 'palli'.

The Parakesarivarman Chola inscription (ARE  277 of 1916) is seen nearer to Adhinathar sculpture (on Jinagiri rock) speaks about the gift of sheeps made by Eranandhi for burning perpetual lamp in Thandapuram Jinapalli (தண்டாபுரம் ஜீனப்பள்ளி). The ancient name of this Jain temple was Thandapuram Jinapalli.

The Rajaraja Chola I's inscription located near Parsvanathar sculpture (on Jinagiri rock) dated 1007 AD. (ARE 277 of 1916) bears the name of this hill temple as 'Gangasoora perumpalli' (கங்கசூர பெரும்பள்ளி) located in Rajakesaripuram (இராசகேசரிபுரம்) - the other name of Thirakoil. In spoken language this temple is also known as Kangaraiyan Palli (கங்கரையன் பள்ளி).

Another Parakesarivarman Chola's inscription (ARE  279 of 1916)  nearer to Adhinathar sculpture informs about the gift of paddy by Kanakavirasithadikal to the temple. There is one more inscription (ARE 278 of 1916) not readable fully - (on the western side of the Jinagiri rock) brings out the gift of gold for burning perpetual lamp.

A flight of narrow steps (carved on the highly sloping rock) leads to the top of the hill. The climb atop the hill is tremendous fun; and a bit taxing on your breathing rhythm. The view from the top is awesome.

The inscriptions indicate that this Digambara Jain temple devoted Lord Adhinathar on top of Thirakoil hillock as Mai Siddhappalli or Siddhaperumpalli. The present temple structure was constructed quite recently on the vestiges of the ancient hill temple. The shrine has sanctum, antarala, ardhamandapam, and mukhamandapam. The two pilasters standing between the ardhamandapam and mukha mandapam have the Pallava style Pothikai (cornice) on top. The previous rectangular shaped ancient brick structure would have constructed during 6th century AD. The sanctum and shikara got dilapidated over a period of time.  The bricks used appear in unusual in size (L 26 cm x W 16 cm x H 7 cm).  The vestiges of perimeter wall around the hill temple could be noted even now.

The idol of Lord Adhinathar, the prime deity got broken into three pieces. Now this sculpture is displayed in the Government Egmore Museum, Chennai. They have replaced the broken idol with new one from the foothills temple. This 3 feet tall and proportinally narrow idol, without the identification symbol of Tithankara kept at ardhamandapam, is considered as the most ancient among the idols worshiped in this temple. The wide triple parasol or umbrella above the head and the thick band of divine halo  behind Him indicate the age of the idol. The stout hands and short ear lobes (not touching the shoulders) designate the idol to 7th century AD.

At the foothills there is Adhinathar temple with sanctum, antarala, ardhamantapam and mahamandapam, built after 'Jinagiri Palli' i.e, around 11th century AD. and the mahamandapam around 13th century AD. The vratta sthamba (rounded pillars) are seen both in the ardhamandapam and mahamandapam. The 13th century inscription on this pillar speaks about Idaiyaran Atkondan of Devapuram and his gift of rounded pillars to the temple.  The three feet high idol of the prime deity Adhinathar (in seated posture) with damaged nose is kept at mahamandapam. The present idol of  Lord Adhinathar, the prime deity is sculpted with white marble. The sculpture depicts him seated on the lions throne in the lotus position or kayotsarga.

There is an awesome bas-relief of Adhinathar measuring about 4 feet in height appear on one of the boulders located at the southern side of the foothills. It reminds the sculpture at Madurai Pechipallam.

How to get there

The Jain abode is located 15 km southwest оf Vandavasi, 7 km frоm Ponnur Kundkundar Philosophical Center. Only private buses and taxis are available from Desur or Kilputhur. Bus commuters to walk approximately one kilometer from main road to reach Thirakoil.

Nearby Jain Temples:

Desur: Shri 1008 Atheeswarar Jinalayam, a three-centuries old ancient temple. Lord Adeeswarar (Virushabanath) – the first theerthankara – as main deity.

Ponnur Hills: Ponnur Hills, which is famous for Acharya Kund Kund, is 8 km from here.

Thirakoil: Thirakoil, a historic cave temple, is 3 km from here.

Mel Sithamur: Mel Sithamur, a primary religious center for Tamil Jains with temples of Lord Parswanath and Mallinath, is 38 km from here.

Thirumalai: Thirumalai, with a Jain math and unique cave temples, is about 50 km from here.

Youtube

Jinagiri Palli (Jain Abode) at Thirakoil, Tamil Nadu, India by R Muthusamy 

Thirakoil Jain Heritage Site of 8th Century CE