Friday, September 4, 2015

Heritage Trail: Thiruvallam, Melpadi, Mahendravadi and Pullalur 1

Tiruvallam Vilvanaeeswarar Temple Facade
Aadi Perukku (18th Day of Tamil month Aadi - (mid-July to mid-August)) is an important day for Hindus as well as Ponniyin Selvan Group (Facebook Group). The group organized a meeting on 08th August 2015 from 03.00 - 6.00 pm at Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan, No. 18/20/22, East Mada Street, Mylapore, Chennai, India. An exceptional talk by artist Shri Maniam Selvan, on his father's immortal sketches and the talk by Dr. (Smt).A.Padmavathy, the scholar and epigraphy expert on Imperial Cholas delighted the chosen audience.

On 9th August 2015 Ponniyin Selvan Group (Facebook Group) organized an "One day trip to Thakkolam, Mahendravadi, Melpadi and Thiruvalam! . It was well planned and accommodated a bunch of 25 people.   We couldn't cover on Thakkolam during our trip. We started around 6:30 am from Sri Balaji Temple, Venkatnarayana Road  and reached back Chennai by 7:30 pm. 

Transport: Two 12 seat Tempo Travellor
Total travel time : 13.00 Hours
Travel on road: 07.00 Hours
Distance Covered: 258 Km
Breakfast before Ranipettai: 0.30 Hours
Lunch at Mahendravadi: 0.30 Hours
Tea break @ NH4: 0.30 Hours
Maintenance: Tyre puncture before Ranipettai.

ooo ooo ooo

Thiruvalam or Tiruvallam (திருவலம் அல்லது  திருவல்லம்), a historical urban village (Latitude 13.001 and 79.245 Longitude) and the ancient Shiva temple here brings the Pallava, Bana and Chola history to life. It is located in Katpadi taluk (காட்பாடி வட்டம்), Vellore district (வேலூர் மாவட்டம்), Tamil Nadu Pin Code 632520. The urban village is part of Thiruvalam Town Panchayat and as per census 2011 it has a population of 9,153 and 84.50 % literacy rate. Since it is on the western bank of Ponnai River, people in this village make their living through agriculture and other small scale and cottage industries.

During the 10th century this village was a buffer region between the Chola and Chalukya dynasties. Tiruvallam alias Vanapuram alias Tikkali Vallam, under Bana kingdom, was forming part of part of   Perumbanappadi (a subdivision) of Jayankonda Cholamandalam  (a district). Tiruvallam is approximately 123 km from Chennai and 45 km from Kanchipuram, 8 km from Ranipettai. If you are coming by bus from Chennai, alight at Muthukadai bus stop and take another bus going to Chittoor. You will find the iron bridge built (by British Indian government) on the Niva river. After passing this bridge you will find the temple on your left.

Tiruvallam was the gateway to the north-west of the Chola imperium. The historical province was known as Tondaimandalam. which included the northernmost part of Tamil Nadu. Vallavaraiyan Vandiyadevan of Vanar clan was the chieftain of Vallavaraiyarnadu, the feudatory under Rajaraja Chola I and the chieftain was married to Kundavai, the elder sister of Rajaraja Chola I. The Lord of Tiruvallam is being linked with this chieftain without any valid evidence.

It has been written numerous times about Dhanurmadhyambigai Sametha Sri Vilvanadeeswarar Temple in several blogs. Therefore I don't wish to repeat certain information. But,let me quote some interesting facts here (that I have learned from various sources).

Prime Deity : Vilvanadeeswarar (வில்வநாதீஸ்வரர்), Vallanathar (வல்லநாதர்).
Goddess : Dhanur Madhyambal (வில்லிடை நாயகி !), Vallambikai (வல்லாம்பிகை).
Holy Tree: Vilva Tree (Aegle marmelos) (வில்வமரம்)
Holy water  : Gowri Tirth (கௌரி தீர்த்தம்), Niva River (நீவா நதி)
Glorified by : Tirugnanasambandar Devaram First Tirumurai Part 3 Pathikam 113.
Address : Sri Vilvanadeeswarar Temple, Tiruvalam Post, Via Ranipettai, Katpadi taluk, Vellore district - 632515
Temple Timings : 07.00 – 12.00 am ; 05.00 – 08.30 pm
Phone : 0416-2236491
Unique feature : Two Prime deity shrines, Two goddesses shrines, Two Flagstaff, three Nandhis placed in the same axis and facing away from Lord, Adhikara Nandhi Facing the Lord. The temple complex as seen today, like numerous others, is a product of many centuries of evolution, with different parts being added at different periods in history.

Ornate Stone Bowl with Danseuse
Lord Vilvanadeeswara (Shiva), the presiding deity of the temple is enshrined as Shivalingam in the east facing main sanctum of this temple. There is a small ardhamandapam in front of this sanctum which leads to pillared maha - mandapam in front. Opposite this sanctum there are three Nandhi images appear facing the entrance before the flag staff i.e, a granite Nandhi (appears to be the original), a huge stucco Nandhi image and another granite Nandhi image (latest addition) appear facing the circumambulation path. The flagstaff and balipeetam are also located before the Lord in the outer corridor. Adhikara Nandhi (bull-head human standing on two legs) facing the Lord is located in between stucco and granite nandhis.

PC Mohan Hariharan
Adishtanam
The vimana is made out of granite substructure (from adishtana to prastara) and brick super-structure (hara, griva and shikara) studded with with stucco images. The outer walls of the vimana has simple Padabandha adhishtana with the components of upana, jagadi, tri-patta kumuda moulding.  The pada portion of the vimana has slit-niches (koshtas) between elegantly carved pillars.  The outer wall of Vilvanadeesvara sanctum has the beautiful idols of Ganesha, Dakshinamurthy, Vishnu, Brahma, Durga, and Chandikeswara. The upper tala (Storey) built with bricks carries a hara with octagonal sikhara. There is a metal stupi to crown the Sikhara of the Vimana. The main sanctum also houses few Chola bronze idols of Chandrasekhar, Bikshatana, and Nayanmars (inner corridor).
PC Velu Chamy
The fierce Dwarapalakas, on each side before the sanctum are looking with bulging eyes, protruding curved sharp canine teeth, bushy eyebrows. The yagnopavita (sacred cord) runs across their chest and ornamented with  sarapali; kati-bandha jeweled waist band; naga-bandha armlets and anklets.The Dwarapalaka on the right of the Lord Shiva shows visvaya mudra i.e, raising the right hand index finger meaning that ‘God is one' and the left hand holds the mace.  His upper right hands holds a club and the left hand raised above head. The Dwarapalaka on the left shows the darjani mudra i.e, the left hand index finger towards the Lord directing the devotee to have his mind set on the Lord. He stands erect and his right leg raised and kept on the mace as if resting. The two sculptures are breathtakingly real and artistic. There are many other sub-shrines for Brahma, Vishnu, Chandikeswarar and Nagar (Serpent) in the inner circumambulation path. The stone images as well as bronze images of 63 Nayanmars are arranged in a separate enclosure. 

There are stucco images for the 27 natal stars with their names written in Tamil are located on the vimanam of the sanctum. It is believed that appropriate prayer to the natal star image would relieve the individual from malefic effects of the planets on transit.

Goddess
Goddess  Dhanur madhyambal alias Dhanur Madhyambikai aka Theekali Ambal (தீக்காலி  அம்பாள்) appear in a separate east facing sanctum on the left side . It is learned that the goddess appeared with fierce (ugram) face and Adi Sankaracharya pacified her and from then onwards she appears peaceful and graceful. Dhanur means bow and the waist of the goddess is curved and resembles the bow (வில்லிடை நாயகி). The Dravidian style vimana of Dhanur madhyambal also has the granite sub - structure and brick super - structure. The niches in the outer walls of the vimana house the sub-shrine deities (பரிவார தேவதைகள்) of Vinayagar, Annapoorani and Durga.

Adi Vilvanadha
Pillared Mandapam
There are also sub-shrines for Shivalingams in the form of Kasi Viswanathar, Chandramouleeswarar, Annamalaiyar, Sadhasivam,  Anandha, Neelakhanta, Ambikeswara, and Vinayaka who obtained fruit (கனி வாங்கிய விநாயகர்) as well as main shrines for Adhi Vilvanathar and Sundareshwara and Meenakshi in the middle corridor (prakaram). The 100 pillared Natarajar mandapam (நடராஜர் மண்டபம்)  amply supported by ornate pillars. The legend of Nandhi protecting the village from demon Kanjan is depicted on the pillar faces as bas relief images.

Goddess Shrine
Nandhi (stucco)
The Gowri Tirth (with neerazhi madapam (நீராழி மண்டபம்) at the center), the holy water source and the Ambikeswar  shrine are situated in the outer corridor (prakaram) of the temple. The vilva tree (Aegle marmelos) (வில்வமரம்) is the holy tree (sthala vriksham) of this shrine.

The tall south facing five tier rajagopuram adorning the entrance to the temple, and visible from afar, has fine stucco sculptures of themes from Saivite mythology on it. Also there is a second level three tier gopuram. This temple complex extending up to five acres are is surrounded by high perimeter walls.

Thiruvallam is one the 274 Shiva temples praised in Devaram hymns and it is the 10th of the 32 Devara Stalams in the Thondai Nadu. Sambandar's patikam honors this shrine, while Appar has referred to this shrine in a patikam.

எரித்தவன் முப்புரம் எரியின் மூழ்கத் 
தரித்தவன் கங்கையைத் தாழ்சடைமேல்
விரித்தவன் வேதங்கள் வேறு வேறு
தெரித்தவன் உறைவிடம் திருவல்லமே.

கற்றவர் திருவல்லம் கண்டுசென்று
நற்றமிழ் ஞானசம் பந்தன்சொன்ன
குற்றமில் செந்தமிழ் கூறவல்லார்
பற்றுவர் ஈசன்பொற் பாதங்களே.
                                                                      -- திருஞானசம்பந்தர்

Saint Mounaswami stayed in this shrine and cured the illness of people with holy ashes and vilva leaves. The temple was consecrated by him from the donations received from public.

Festivals: Full moon nights are considered to be special here. The annual Bhrammotsavam is celebrated in the Tamil month of Maasi. Shivaratri, The Float Festival, Navartri, Thai Poosam are the festivals of significance here.

HISTORY

The inscriptions of Tiruvallam relate to Pallava, Bana, Vaidumba, Ganga and Chola dynasties. The Banas claimed as descent of Mahabali - the demon and his son Bana. The Banas humbly state that they were appointed as the door keepers by god Paramesvara. The geneology of Banas of the Perumbanappadi is furnished by the Gudimallam and Udayendiram plates.   Parigipura aka Parivi, the traditional capital of these Banas in the Hindupur Taluk of the Anantapur district, may be said to be the nucleus of their kingdom, from which they spread towards each  from north and south, the country they thus occupied. Bana emblem was black buck represented in their banner, and the crest was the bull.

The earliest mention of the Banas in authentic historical records is in the middle of the fourth century AD, and as the feudatories of the Satavahana and early Pallavas. The Banas were opposed by their neighboring dynasties and they served some major dynasties such as the Pallavas, Cholas and Pandyas as feudatories, after sometimes they were subjugated by them. Tondai Nadu was one such neighboring country.  The inscriptions refer this region as one of the kurrams (divisions) of Tondai Nadu i.e, part of Paduvur kurram.

Perumbanappadi (Bana kingdom) was large piece of land located to the west of extended Vadugavali Merku.  The Perumbanappadi was bound by Srisailam and Kolar in the west, Kalahasti in the east, and the Palar river in the south.  Perumbanappadi included the modern regions such as Kolar, Anantapur, Chittur districts as well as Taluks of  Gudiyattam, Vaniyambadi, Arakkonam, in Vellore district of Tamilnadu. The inscriptions and copper plates of Chalukyas, Telugu Cholas, Gangas and Kadamba mention Perumbanappadi in different names. Tiruvallam aka Vanapuram, a town was located in the southern territory of Perumbanappadi, was its capital.  Perumbanappadi was forming part of Tondai Mandalam (north - west portions) during Pallavas and Jayakonda Chola Mandalam during Cholas.

The Bana Dynasty also ruled Andhramandala bound by Kalahasti in the west and Palar in the south and included the North Arcot district (an old name to the district in Tamilnadu) as well as Guntur district in Andhra Pradesh. The Bana king, Vadhuvallaba Malladeva Nandivarman in 338 AD.

The Bana Dynasty also ruled Baikula Nadu during early 7th century forming part of  modern Chittor, Ananthapur and Cuddapah districts. They had affiliation with Imperial Cholas. Nellore was added later to this region. Gudimallam alias Vanapuram  near  Kalahasti and Nandagiri also served as their capitals. 

Bana Kings

  • Jayanandivarman (770 - 795 AD.)Nandivarman or Jayanandivarman should have received this name as being a feudatory of Nandivarman Pallavamalla. From an inscription dated in the 62nd regnal year of Nandivikra mavarman we learn that the Pallava king of that name had an unnamed Mavali-Vanaraya as his feudatory. The Bana king Jayanandivarman  assisted his Pallava Suzerain Nandivarman II Pallavamalla against Gangas and was rewarded for his loyalty by the assignment of some territory of the Gangas.  
  • Vijayaditya I, (796 - 835 AD.) Son of Jayanandivarman:  We have little information. He was a feudatory of Pallava Dantivarman. In the Gudimallam inscriptions 3 dated in the 49th regnal year of Dantivarman (778 - 829 A.D.) a Bana chief, Vijayaditya Mahavali Vanaraya is said to be a feudatory of Dantivarman.
  • Malladeva, (835 - 850 AD.), Son of Vijayaditya I: Malladeva was conferred with the title Jagadekamalla, Vadhiivallabha and Nandivarman, expanded the Bana power at the expense of the Telugu Cholas in the north.
  • Bana Vidhyadhara, son of Malladeva (Married a grand-daughter of the Ganga King Siva maharaja, who reigned between 1000 and 1016AD)
  • Prabhumerudeva, son of Banavidhyadhara
  • Vikramaditya I, Son of Prabhumerudeva: He was also a Pallava feudatory, entered into a matrimonial alliance with the Gangas. He married Kundavai, the daughter of Ganga king Prtivipati I, who was a contemporary of the Rastrakuta king Amoghavarsa I and of the Pandya king Varagunas.
  • Vikramaditya II or Pugalvippavar-Ganda, Son of Vikramaditya I
  • Vijayabahu Vikramaditya II, Son of Vikramaditya II
  • Aragalur udaiya Ponparappinan Rajaraja devan alias Magadesan (Magadai Mandalam chief) of Aragalur

There was big trial of strength between Banas, Vaidumbas and Ganga Pritivipati I on one side, and the Nolambas, Telugu Cholas and Rajamalla I on the other. The Banas were the prime movers and who entered into matrimonial alliance with Pritivipati I whose daughter Kundavai was married to prince Vikramaditya I. Vaidumbas captured parts of Renadu and Banas captured the capital of Telugu Chola. They wanted to dislodge Ganga Rajamalla I and bequeath it to Pritivipati I and they could not succeed in their attempt. Instead Rajamalla I invaded with Bana country and advanced up to Vallimalai near Tiruvallam.

In the beginning of 10th century AD. between 909 and 916 AD. the Banas were conquered by Parantaka Chola I and were thus deprived of their kingdom. The Ganga king, Pritivipati II was conferred the title "Lord of the Banas" by Parantaka Chola I after he defeated the Banas.

After this the Banas were subsequently found ruling various parts, such as Nellore, Guntur and Anantapur, as Chieftains in medieval Andhra.

INSCRIPTIONS 

Some very rare and interesting inscriptions dating from Pallava, Ganga Pallava, Bana kings to Rajaraja Chola I, Rajendra Chola I, Kulotunga Chola I, Kulotunga Chola III, Rajaraja Chola III,  as well as Pandya king Virapandya and Vijayakanta Gopala have been found in the Vilvanadeeswara temple at Tiruvallam. (ARE 300, 301, 302, 303, 304 of 1897).  

The inscriptions call the Vilvanathesvara temple : 1. Vanapuran (வாணபுரம்) (S.I.I.,Vol III, No. 42, Pages 91) during the period of Nandivarma Pallava II (793 AD.); 2. Paramesvara at Tikkali Vallam (தீக்காலி வல்லமுடைய பரமேஸ்வரர்) (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 43, Pages 93) during the reign of Nandivarma Pallava III (863 AD.); 3. Tiruttikkali-Perumanadigal of Tikkali-Vallam (திருத்தீக்காலிப் பெருமானடிகள்) (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 44, Pages 95) during  the reign of Mahavali Vanaraja (Vikramaditya I) (888 AD.); 4.  Tiruttikkali-Alvar (திருத்தீக்காலி ஆழ்வார்) (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 49, Pages 102) during the reign of Rajaraja I (991 AD.); 5. Tikkali-Vallam (தீக்காலி வல்லம்) (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 49, Pages 102) during the reign of Rajaraja Chola I (991 AD.); 6. Tiruvallam-Udaiyar (திருவல்லமுடையார்) (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 53, Pages 108) during the reign of Rajendra Chola II (1015 AD.); 7. Mahadeva of Tiruvallam  (திருவல்லமுடைய மகாதேவர்) (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 55, Pages 175.) during the reign of Vikrama Chola (1123 AD.); 8. Nayanar of Tiruvallam (திருவல்லமுடைய நாயனார்) (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 62, Pages 122 & 123) during the reign of Kulotunga Chola III (1212 AD.).  It contained shrines of Kalyanasundara and Karumanikka, and of their goddesses (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 57).

Many of the inscriptions of this temple indicate that Tiruvallam seems to be the capital of Bana country and Bana dynasty. (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 46, 51, 52, 55, 56, 58 to 60). The alternative name indicated as Vanapuram (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 42, 51 and 53).  Some other inscriptions pronounce "Tikkali-Vallam" (S.I.I. Vol III, Nos. 43to 45, 47 to 49, 54 and 61) as an ancient name of Tiruvallam.

Perumbanappadi was the nadu (district) of Banas i.e, 'the great Bana country.' There is a tiny village by name Vanasamudram exists in the neighbourhood Tiruvallam. Also there is a village Banavaram found near Sholingur in Arakonam Taluk of Vellore district in Tamil Nadu.

The early inscriptions accommodate Tiruvallam within Miyaru-nadu (S.I.I. Vol III, Nos. 43 to 45, 49 and 54) or Miyarainadu (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 52) and some other inscriptions accommodate it under
Karaivali (sub-division) of Perumbanappadi  (S.I.I. Vol III, Nos. 53, 55, 56, 58 and 59).

Tiruvallam was forming part of  Jayankonda-Chola-mandalam (province) (S.I.I. Vol III, Nos. 53 to 56, 58 and 59) and Tyagabharana-valanadu (division) (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 55) Paduvur-kottam (district)  (S.I.I. Vol III, Nos.43, 44, 49, 51 to 54).

The whole Chola Imperium was bifurcated into provinces or mandalams and the Chola princes were nominated to govern the provinces. Further the provinces were sub-divided into valanadus or kottams (divisions) (வளநாடு), nadus (districts) (நாடு) or Taniyur (தனியூர்) and kurrams (villages). The towns and villages mentioned in the inscriptions include: 1. Alinganapakkam in (the district of) Urrukkattu-kottam in the province Tondaimandalam; 2. Vannipedu belonged to Karai-nadu, a subdivision of the district of Paduvur-kottam (Vannipedu, alias Ranavikrama-chaturvedimangalam, in Karai-nadu, (a subdivision) of Paduvur-kottam,);  3.  Ettukkur, a hamlet on the north-east of Kavirippakkam, alias Kavdippakkam Avaninarayana-chaturvedimangalam situated in Paduvur-kottam; 4. Ponpadukuttam, a tax-paying village (near) Kachchippedu, i.e., Kanchipuram; 5. Naratunga-chaturvedimangalam in Karai-nadu, (a subdivision) of Paduvur-kottam. 

Village was the basic unit of administration. The villages were mainly of three types. 1. Ur was the general assembly of the village where local residents discussed their matters without any formal rule or procedure; The Ur constituted of an intercaste population where the land was held by all classes of people and paid taxes to the king in the form of land revenue. It was the most frequent type. 2.  Brahmadeya or agrahara villages were granted to the Brahmins and was entirely inhabited by them. 3. Devadana was the village granted to god. They were exempted from tax and were prosperous. The revenues from these villages were donated to a temple. During Cholas the Devadana type of villages gained more popularity as the temples became the centres of life.

The Chola pattern of government was based more or less on democratic principles and most of the business was carried on by the village assemblies.  Chola officers participated in village affairs more as advisers and observers than as administrators. The assembly of Tikkali-Vallam in Miyaru-nadu, (a subdivision) of Paduvur-kottam, (a district) of Jayankonda-Sola-mandalam was held responsible for the entire responsibility of the village administration. This body participated by the selected few and elders of the village possessed absolute authority over the affairs of villages and the temple. They maintained law and order in the village. It wielded a great authority in the administration of the village and the temple.

The names of Chola government officers mentioned in Tiruvallam inscription include: 1. Kaduptti - Tamila-Perarayan (official),  copyist for Videlvidugu Kadupati-Tamila-Perarayan; 2. Irayiravan Pallavarayan, alias Uttama-Sola-Pallavaraiyan, 3. Perundaram (higher official of Chola HQ) of the Lord Sri-Rajendra-Chola deva (and) the lord of Araisur in Pambuni-kurram, (a district) of Nittavinoda-valanadu, 4. Samkaran Kandaradittanar, alias the Senapati Rajaraja-Soliyavaraiyar, the Lord of Inganur in Inganadu, (a district) of Arumolideva-valanadu, (a military officer).

Siva-Brahmanas were in charge of the shrine (sthana) of the temple while Devakanmis were the administrator in the temple. Shiva Brahmanas are priests who performed pooja rituals in Tiruvallam temple during Chola period: 1. Kausiha-Nagama-Bhattan, a Siva-Brahmana was in charge of the shrine (sthana) of the temple of Tiruvallam-udaiyar at Tiruvallam, a brahmadeya in Karaivali, (a subdivision) of Perumbanappadi, (a division) of Tyagabharana-valanadu, (a district) of Jayankonda-Sola-mandalam; 2. Gangadhara-Bhattan, Akkaa-Bhattan, Sivakkolundu-Bhattan, Sikkali-Bhattan, Rudra-Bhattan, Vikkiramadittan, Tirumapperan and the other (persons) in charge of the store-room of the temple, 3. Chandesvaradeva, the first servant of (the god) Mahadeva (of the temple) of Tiruvallam.

All the charities mentioned in the inscriptions were placed under the protection of Mahesvaras, the Chola government official took part in the sabha proceedings. 

Weights and Measurements

Inscriptions also mention about weights and measures that deal with gifts of land and produce to temples. The Chola system used to measure land was in Kuzhi (11 cents ?) and the area decided by one standard rod length and rod width (Adavallan Kol). Maa (33 cents ?) comprise three Kuzhi. Veli (660 cents or 6.6 acres) includes 20 Maa. One Kani = 8.25 cents.

Rice was measured in Nazhi (Padi) (1. 344 lit. (2 Uri / 4 Uzhakku / 8 aazhakku).

Paddy was measured in Marakkal (Kuruni) (10. 752 lit. (8 nazhi / 16 uri / 32 uzhakku / 64 aazhakku), two marakkal made one Pathakku ( 21.504 lit. (2 kuruni / 16 nazhi / 32 uri / 64 uzhakku /128 aazhakku); six marakkal one Kalam (86.016 lit (3 kalam / 6 pathakku / 12 kuruni / 96 nazhi / 192 uri / 384 uzhakku / 768 aazhakku); 12 marakkal one Podhi; 21 marakkal one Kottai. Kadi was used another measurement unit.


Oil and ghee were measured in Azhakku (0168 ml); Uzhakku (336 ml); Uri (672 ml - 2 Uzhakku / 4 aazhakku).

Gold gifts expressed in weighing units such as Kalanju. Kundrimani (Abrus precatorius) and  Manjadi (Adenanthera pavonina) are very consistent in weight. Ancient Tamils  used both the seeds as units of weight to weigh gold using a measure called kunrimani seed (0.133 gm) and manjadi seed (approximately 0.266 gm). Twenty manjadis or  forty kundrimanis made one Kalanju (5.320 gm or approximately 1.5 sovereign). Thirty manjadis or sixty kundrimanis made one sovereign or poun weighing 7.98 gm. 
ooo ooo ooo
  1. An inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 42, Pages 91) records the gift of land by a goldsmith to the temple at Vanapuram (‘the town of the Banas,’ seems to have been the residence of the Bana chief and have been situated closed to Tiruvallam) with the approval of the king Mahavalivanaraya mentions: "Om. Obeisance to Siva! Hail! Prosperity! In the sixty-second year (of the reign) of king Vijaya-Nandivikramavarman, while the glorious Mavalivanaraya, - born from the family of Mahabali, who had been made door-keeper by the lord of gods and demons, Paramesvara (Siva), who is worshipped in all the three worlds,- was ruling the Vadugavali twelve-thousand.  I, Aridhiran, the son of Madan, a goldsmith (and resident) of a house in the east of Alinganapakkam in (the district of) Urrukkattu-kottam, caused to be renewed the Vada-sigara-koyil at Vanapuram and gave to it the patti  (called) Alinjirkalam, (which I had) bought from Manradi, the son of Ilangilavar."
  2. Another Inscription (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 43, Pages 93) 17th year of the reign of Vijaya-Nandivikramavarman records the grant of three villages to the temple at the request of the Bana king Vikramaditya.  
  3. The Devaram hymns, are cited in the inscriptions as Tiruppadiyam. The much old lithic reference to the singing of Tiruppadiyam, fall out during the reign of Nandivarman III, the Pallava ruler  845 A.D. found in Tiruvallam. Inscription records that three villagers were granted to the temple at the request of the Bana king Vikramaditya Mavali Vanarayan. The three villages were clubbed together into one village, which received the new name Videlvidugu-Vikkiramaditta-chaturvedimangalam. Videlvidugu, i.e., ‘the crashing thunderbolt,’ may have been a surname of Vijaya-Nandivikramavarman. Main interest is the quoting of individual who had to sing the Tiruppadiyam i.e., the Devaram, in the temple.  Tlkkalivallam in Miyarunadu|, a subdivision of the Paduvurkottam. The members of the assembly of this Videlvidugu-Vikkiramaditta-chaturvedimangalam stipulate that the Assembly should pay 2000 kadi of paddy and twenty Kalanju of gold to the temple for the feeding of Siva Brahmans, the drum-beaters (Sribali) and other temple servants including the singers of Tirupadiyam  i.e., the Devaram as well as for perpetual lamps, anointment of idols, temple repairs, etc„ The singers of Devaram hymns were referred as Tirupadiyam Vinnapam seyvar or Pidarar from the inscriptions of Nandivarman III in the Tiruvallam Bilavaneswara temple records. Saptarishisvara temple at Lalgudi (99/1928-29) records provide particulars about the gifts provided to the singers of Devaram from Parantaka Chola I in 944 AD. Thiruverumbur temple (129/1914) records during reign of Sundara Chola (Parantaka II) also provide particulars about the Tirupppadiyam reciters. The records speak about the singers of Tiruppadiyam in Shiva temples much before the reign of Rajaraja Chola I.  The discovery of the Devaram hymns, probably under Rajaraja I, led to the Tiruppadiyam being institutionalised. It is learned that he deputed 48 pidarars and made liberal provisions for their maintenance and successors.  (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 43, Pages 93) 
  4. The inscription (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 44, Pages 95) of Mahavalivanaraya records that a Brahmana of Ettukkur near Kavirippakkam (now a City in Kaveripakkam Taluk in Vellore District) (S.I.I., Vol II. Nos. 10 to 12) paid 25 kalanju of gold to the villagers of Vannipedu (S.I.I., Vol II. Nos. 5 and 19), (now Vannivedu, a Village in Walajapet Taluk in Vellore district) who, in return, pledged themselves to supply oil to a lamp in the temple.  At the time of the inscription Vannipedu belonged to Karai-nadu, a subdivision of the district of Paduvur-kottam.  Karai-nadu owes its name to Karai, a village on the north of Ranipet. (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 44, Pages 95)
  5. The inscription (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 45) of Mahavalivanaraya records that an inhabitant of Ponpadukuttam near Kachchippedu, i.e., Kanchipuram, purchased some land from the inhabitants of Tiruvallam.  The produce of the land had to be used for providing offerings and for feeding a lamp in the temple. (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 45)
  6. The inscription (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 46) records a gift of gold for maintaining a lamp by the queen of Vanavidyadhara-Vanaraya ( this king may be identified with Vikramaditya I., the sixth of the Bana chiefs). Vanamahadevi,  the daughter of Pratipati-Araiyar and the great queen of Vanavidyadhararaya, alias Vanaraya, born from the family of Mahabali, gave to the members of the assembly of this Tikkali-Vallam twenty kalanju of pure gold for (maintaining) one perpetual lamp before (the god) Tikkali-Perumanadigal. The assembly members have agreed to supply (one) uri of ghee per day for one lamp from the  interest on this gold.  (S.I.I., Vol III, No. 46)
  7. Thiruvallam inscription records (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 49, Pages 102) that certain Madhrantakan Kandaratittan (Kandaratittan son of Madhrantaka) "while he stood in the temple observed that the offering presented to the Alvar (prime deity) were reduced to two nali of rice: the offerings of vegetables, ghee and curds had ceased and the perpetual lamps had been neglected." He summoned the 'Siva Brahmanas' of the temple and the assembly of Takkalivallam and said: 'state the revenue and expenditure of the temple in accordance with the royal order and the royal letter.' (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 49, Pages 102)  
  8. This inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 50) is dated in the  seventh year of the reign of king Rajaraja-Kesarivarman.  It records that a Brahmana set up an image of the goddess Uma-Bhattaraki and granted a lamp to the temple.  He also purchased 1,700 kuli of land from the inhabitants of the village of Mandiram in Tunadu and made it over to the temple authorities, who had to feed the lamp and to supply offerings from the produce of the land. Tunadu, to which Mandiram belonged, was the name of the country round Melpadi.  Mandiram had the surname Jayameru-Srikaranamangalam (11. 2 and 15 f.), which seems to be derived from Jayameru, one of the surnames of the Bana king Vikramaditya I. (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 50)
  9. This inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 51) is dated in the 16th year of the reign of the Chola king Rajaraja I. and records that the citizens of Vanapuram, i.e., Tiruvallam, sold 700 kuli of land by a deed of sale to Samkaradeva, the son of Tiruvaiyan, who granted it to the temple of Tiruvaiya-Isvara and for (providing) the expenses of the worship.  Tiruvaiya-Isvara temple was situated on the south of the Bilvanathesvara temple and was evidently named after Tiruvaiyan, the father of the donor. The inscription marks the four boundaries of the land  as well as the estimated measurement as seven hundred kuli  by the rod of sixteen spans. (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 51)
  10. This inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 52) is dated in the 20th year of the reign of the Chola king Rajaraja I. and records the gift of a lamp by Nannamaraiyar or Nannaman, the son of Tukkarai.  The donor belonged to the Vaidumba family and ruled over Ingallur-nadu, a district of Maharajapadi. For (maintaining this lamp he) gave 90 full-grown cows, which must neither die nor grow old. (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 52)
  11. This inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 53) is dated in the 3rd year of the reign of Parakesarivarman, alias Rajendra-Choladeva I.  It records that the inhabitants of Vanapuram, i.e. Tiruvallam, sold 1,000 kuli of land to Vaidumba Somanatha, (the son of ) Samkaradeva (Ref: S.I.I. Vol III, No. 51).  The inscription marks the four boundaries of the land as well as the estimated measurement as one thousand kuli by the rod of sixteen spans. He also granted 96 sheep for the maintenance of a lamp in the same temple.   (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 53)
  12. This inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 54) is dated in the 4th year of the reign of Rajendra-Chola I.  Irayiravan Pallavaraiyan, alias Uttama-Sola-Pallavaraiyan, a Perundaram of the lord Sri-Rajendra-Choladeva (and) the lord of Araisur in Pambuni-kurram, (a district) of Nittavinoda-valanadu, had built a shrine to (the god) Chandesvaradeva (of the shrine) which he called Rajarajesvara. It is apparently identical with the shrine on which the inscription is engraved.  For maintaining two lamps in this shrine, he purchased for 50 kasu from the inhabitants of Tiruvallam a piece of land (shown the four boundaries of the land) which measured 2, 000 kuli, and which received the name Araisur-Vadagai with an allusion to his native village of Araisur (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 54)
  13. This inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 55) is dated in the 3rd year of the reign of the Chola king Rajendra I and records that the temple authorities received 25 kalanju of gold from  Kattukkuri Madhava-Kramavittan, (one) among the commissioners who rule Aimbuni in Karaivali, (a subdivision) of Perumbanappadi, (a division) of Tyagabharana-valanadu, (a district) of Jayankonda-Sola-mandalam, under the condition that the interest should be applied for the feeding of a learned Brahmana (a Dikshita who knows the Veda and the sacred Agama) and other purposes.   The interest on 20 kalanju gold being (one) padakku of paddy per day, (measured) by the marakkal (called after) Arumolidevan, viz., three ulakku and two sevidu of paddy per day from every kalanju. The end of the inscription is lost.  (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 55)
  14. This inscription (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 56) is incomplete (of the five lines which are preserved only the two first lines are published).  It is dated in the 2nd year of the reign of Rajakesarivarman, alias Rajamahendradeva, and records a deed of sale of land. Samkaran Kandaradittanar, alias the Senapati Rajaraja-Soliyavaraiyar, the lord of Inganur in Inganadu, (a district) of Arumolideva-valanadu, (a military officer) purchased 800 kuli of land from the inhabitants of Tiruvallam and granted them to the temple. (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 56)
  15. This inscription is dated on the 200th day of the 3rd year of the reign of Parakesarivarman, alias Adhirajendradeva. Before the time of this inscription, the income of the temple had been regulated in the 8th year of the reign of “the emperor Virarajendradeva.”   
  16. Two Chola royal  officers i.e,  the magistrate (adhikarin) 1. Puran Adittadevanar, alias Rajarajendra-Muvendavelar, of Pulangudai in Purakkiliyur-nadu, (a subdivision) of Pandikulasani-valanadu, (a district) of Sola-mandalam, and the 2. Senapati Rajarajan Paranriparakshasan, alias Virasola-Ilango (probably a prince of the blood) the headman of Naarin Tiraimur-nadu, (a subdivision) of Uyyakkondar-valanadu, having met in the Gangaikonda-Solan, a mandapa on the east (of the temple) of Tirumayanam-udaiyar at Kanchipuram in Eyil-nadu, (a subdivision) of  Eyir-kottam, called for the accounts of the villages which are devadanas (of the temple) of Tiruvallam-udaiyar (Tiruvallam Temple). The magistrate Rajarajendra-Muvendavelar ordered that the revenue from the villages of Kukkanur in Tuy-nadu  and Mandiramin Tuy-nadu  should be assigned to the temple for expenses not previously provided for.  A larger committee then assembled and made allotments from this revenue for various heads of the temple expenditure. (S.I.I. Vol III, No. 57)
  17. இடம் : வடஆர்க்காடு மாவட்டம், குடியாத்தம் தாலுகா, திருவல்லம். இவ்வூர் பில்வநாதேசுவரர் கோவிலின் மகாமண்டபத்துத் தென்புறச் சுவரில் உள்ள செய்யுள் சாசனம். Place: Tiruvallam Bilvanathesvara temple south wall of maha-mandapa  South Indian Inscriptions. Volume IV  (S.I.I. Vol. IV. No. 325. )

சாசனச் செய்யுள்

ஆலத்தூ ராளி திவாகரன்தான் செய்வித்தான்
பாலொத்த வெள்ளி நாற்பதின் கழஞ்சால் - சோலைத்
திருவலத்தே யாழ்வார் திருப்பல்லிக்குச் செல்வம்
வருநலத்தான் கொள்கைதான் மற்று.

Meaning: Bilvanathesvara temple of Tiruvallam was known as Alvar Temple of Tiruvallam. One Divakaran of Alattur gifted 40 silver kazhanchu for the pooja rituals (Tirupali) of Alvar of Tiruvallam (வல்லத்துப் பில்வநாதேசுவரர் கோவில், முற்காலத்தில் திருவல்லத்து ஆழ்வார் கோயில் என்று பெயர் பெற்றிருந்தது. இக்கோவில் பூசைக்காக ஆலத்தூர் திவாகரன் என்பவர் தானம் செய்ததை இச்செய்யுள் கூறுகிறது.)  

Reference:
  1. Mahalingam, T.V.  Pages 122 – 140. A.S.I Library, George Fort Complex, Chennai.
  2. Miscellaneous Inscriptions From the Tamil Country http://www.whatisindia.com/inscriptions/south_indian_inscriptions/tiruvallam.html
  3. The Banas by T. N. Ramachandran, M.A., Archaeological Assistant, Madras Museum.http://aragalur.blogspot.in/2013/12/the-banas.html
  4. The History of Andhra Country, 1000 A.D.-1500 A.D.  By Yashoda Devi
  5. Thiruvalam Sri Vilvanatheswarar Temple, Thiruvalam, Tamilnadu  திருவலம் அருள்மிகு திரு வில்வநாதீஸ்வரர் கோயில், திருவலம், தமிழ் நாடு  Haindava Thiruvalam ஹைந்தவ திருவலம். 
  6. Topographical List of Inscriptions in Tamilnadu and Kerala States, Volume – 1, North Arcot District.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 4.2: Rajagopalaswamy Kulasekara Perumal temple, Mannarkoil

Rajagopalaswamy Kulasekara Perumal temple, Mannarkoil
Our next stop was the Mannarkoil. Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy Kulasekara Perumal temple is located at a distance of about 1 km towards west side from Brahmadesam Kailasanathar Temple. From Ambasamudram The town and the temple is situated at a distance of about 5 km  from Ambasamudram off the Tenkasi  –  Kurtalam Highway.

Mannarkoil is an island  bounded by the Thamirabarani river on the south side, and the Ghatana river on the north side. The island looks like Srirangam near Tiruchirapalli. Rangam means island formed in between two river courses. Mannarkoil has always been in the pilgrimage itinerary in  Tirunelveli district by the vaishnavite population.

The historic Rajagopalaswamy Kulasekara Perumal temple (இராஜகோபாலஸ்வாமி குலசேகர பெருமாள் கோவில்) is situated on three sprawling acres of land in the village of Mannarkoil. The imposing perimeter walls enclose temple structures. The village and the temple are mentioned as Vedhanarayanpuram (sound of Vedas is always heard here) and Rajendra Chola Vinnagaram respectively in ancient records.  
 
Quick Facts
  • Name: Rajagopalaswamy Kulasekara Perumal temple, Mannarkoil
  • Historical Names: Vedhanarayanpuram (வேதநாராயணபுரம்), Vedapuri (வேதபுரி), Rajendra Vinnagaram (இராஜேந்திர விண்ணகரம்)
  • Presiding deity : Veda Narayana Perumal (வேதநாராயணப் பெருமாள்)
  • Processional deity : Rajagopalaswamy with Garuda
  • Consorts (Goddesses) : Vedavalli Thaayar (வேதவல்லித் தாயார்) and Bhuvanavalli Thaayar (புவனவல்லித் தாயார்).
  • Holy Tree: Jack tree  (Artocarpus heterophyllus)
  • Holy water: Tamirabarani river, Ghatana river, Bhrgu Theertha
  • Time to visit :  The temple is open from morning 7.00 clock till 12.00 noon and from 5.00 to 7.00 pm.
  • Location: Mannarkoil, bound by two rivers Thamirabarani  and  Ghatana. About 5 km West of Ambasamudram Town. Located in the Tirunelveli - Senkottah Road.
  • Contact: PS. Narasimha Gopalan Acharya @ 04634 252874

Unique Features

  • The village and the temple are located in an island surrounded by two perennial rivers - Tamirabarani and Ghatana.
  • In the 10th century A.D., after the Chola conquest of Pandyan country, the riverine of Tamirabarani - Ghadana nadi was established as a Chola colony.  Jatavarman alias Sundara Chola Pandya (1017-18 A.D), aka Chola Viceroy (feudatory of the Rajendra Chola I) formed new townships and converted the  forest lands for cultivation. This temple is the Chola temple built in the Pandya country. 
  • Ashtanga Vimana (Eight limbs or organs) architecture, one of the very ancient styles of temple construction, is radically distinctive vimana style of this temple. It is structural different from Sashtanga (six limbs or organs) vimana
  • Both the vimana and koshtam has Dakshinamoorthi (a form of Lord Shiva).
  • Vali worshiping Shivalingam
  • A dancing Ganesa sculpture
  • This temple has some miniatures of Ramayana.
  • The saint Kulasekara Azhvar spent his last 30 years in Mannarkoil and attained moksha here. Therefore Mannarkoil has become the Thiruvarasu Koil for Kulasekara Azhvar (திருவரசுக் கோவில்) (place where Azhvars join the feet of the Lord, is called 'Thiruvarasu' ) .  
  • As a token of respect, the temple authorities have aptly named this temple as Rajagopalaswamy Kulasekara Perumal temple.
  • Mannarkoil is the birth place of Vaadhi Kesari Azhagiya Manavala Jeer (வாதி கேசரி அழகிய மணவாள ஜீயர்) who wrote extensive explanation (vyakgnanam (வியாக்யானம்) or urai) to Thiruvai Mozhi (திருவாய்மொழி) - 1102 hymns, composed by Nammazhvar (நம்மாழ்வார்), forming part of Nalayira Divyaprabandham (நாலாயிர திவ்ய பிரபந்தம்) or 4000 Tamil Hymns (Pasurams பாசுரம்). The title of the explanation  is known as ‘Panniraayira Padi.’ (பன்னிரெண்டாயிரப் படி).  
  • Shri.Narasimha Gopalan Acharya, who belongs to the Periya Nambi ancestry, has taken single handed effort to renovate the temple from dilapidated state. He only received very minimal support from HR & CE. He is very keen in cultivating Shenbagam flower garden. His monthly salary seems to be just Rs. 245 only.

The temple, built in the 11th century A.D., during the rule of the Chola monarch Rajendra Chola I (முதலாம் இராசேந்திர சோழன்) (1012-44 A.D.), has a very unique architectural design. Unlike the majority of the temples which have only one main sanctum enshrining the presiding deity, Mannarkoil has  three vertically aligned sanctums, all facing east, one above the other, each housing one image of Lord Vishnu. The canonical texts call this style as ashtanga vimana.

Ashtanga Vimana

Ashtanga means 'having eight limbs or organs.' Usually, as a rule, vimanas are built on the basic six limbs or components: 1. adishtanam (plinth), 2. padam (pillars and the wall), 3. prastara (roof), 4. khandam (neck) 5. shikara (spire), and 6. stupi or kalasa (finial). In ashtanga vimana the main sanctum enshrines the presiding deity of the the temple. In between prastara  and khandam parts of the vimana the second shrine will be built above the main sanctum on the first stage (floor). The third sanctum will be built in between khandam and shikara  above the second sanctum. Thus ashtanga vimana will have 1. adishtanam (plinth), 2. padam (pillars and the wall), 3. prastara (roof), 4. second sanctum 5. khandam (neck)  6. third sanctum, 7. shikara (spire), and 8. stupi or kalasa (finial). Lord Vishnu, in ashtanga vimanas, is generally seen in either of the 3 forms, Ninraan (நின்றான் - Perumal in standing posture), Irundhaan (இருந்தான் - Perumal in sitting posture) or Kidandhaan (கிடந்தான் - Perumal in reclining posture like Ranganathar)

Ashtanga style of vimana, with three sanctums one above the other, was first built in the Vaikunda Perumal temple (வைகுந்தப் பெருமாள் கோவில்)  aka. Parameswara Vinnagaram (பரமேஸ்வர விண்ணகரம்), Kanchipuram in 690  A.D., during the time of Pallava ruler, Nandivarman II aka Pallavamallan (இரண்டாம் நந்திவர்மன் என்ற பல்லவமல்லன்) (731 - 796 A.D.). Sri Sundara Varadaraja Perumal temple, Uttaramerur (சுந்தர வரதராஜப் பெருமாள் கோவில், உத்தரமேரூர்) was built in 750 A.D. during Pallava rule on the model of Vaikunda Perumal temple, Kanchipuram. But, as a unique feature, Uttaramerur temple ashtanga vimana has three more sanctums around the main sanctum in the three cardinal directions in the ground stage and first stage. There are nine Mula Virats (main deities) under the same vimana. Lord Sundara Varadaraja Perumal in the main sanctum and the deities present in the ground stage include Kalyanavaradhan (south), Achutavaradhan (west) and Anurudhravaradhan (north). Lord Vaikundavaran is enshrined the sanctum above the main sanctum in the first stage and the deities present in the first stage include Bhagvath-Gita Krishnan with Arjun (south), Yoga Narasimmha (Lord in half human half lion form) (south) and Bhuvaragan (Lord in boar form) with Lakshmi (north). There is also Sri Dhakshinamurthi on the vimana facing south which is unusual in Vaishnavite temples. Lord Ananthapadmanaban is enshrined in the second stage sanctum. 

The other temples with ashtanga vimana include Sowmya Narayana Perumal (சௌமிய நாராயணப் பெருமாள்) temple in Tirukoshtiyur, Sivagangai district; Sri Koodalazhagar Perumal (கூடலழகப் பெருமாள்) temple, Madurai; Raja Mannar temple, Srivilliputtur; Sri Aadhi Narayana Perumal temple, Cheranmadevi; and Ashtalakshmi temple, Besant Nagar, Chennai.

The two tier (dvi-tala)  ashtanga vimana is having the Chola style of architectural features. The base vimana structure (from adishtana to prastara) is made out of hard granite stones. The super structure is made of brick and lime mortar mixed with palm sugar. The plinth (prathivari bandha adishtanam) of the sanctum includes jagathi, round (vritta) kumudham, prati or pattika. In between the wall and the basement the vedika component with a frieze of Vyala vari (row of Leogrif motif) elements is shown.   The entire pada portion of the vimana is divided into three segments called the pathis or bhadras. The projected corner pathis are called as karna pathis or karna bhadras. In between karna bhadras is projected rectangular sala pathis or sala bhadra. Between karna bhadras and sala bhadras comes koshta panjaras flanked by spilit pilasters. Usually the koshta panjaras will have shrines, but here it is empty. In between the kapota and first tala is shown another vedika component with a frieze of buta-vari. Each tier of the vimana, above the kapota with kudu arches, is formed with regular arrangement of karna-kuta (square shrine placed on corners), panjarasala (oblong shrine placed on sides), panjara, sala and karna-kuta.  

In between prastara  and oblong shaped khandam (neck) parts of the vimana the second sanctum is built above the main sanctum on the first stage (floor). The third sanctum is built in between khandam (neck) and sala shikara (decorated with kirtimukha at both the faces) above the second sanctum. There are five brass (finials) stupis project from the sala shikara 
 
Lord Veda Narayana Perumal

Lord Veda Narayana Perumal (வேத நாராயணப் பெருமாள்), presiding deity of the historic Mannarkoil temple is enshrined in the main sanctum which faces east. The imposing image is seen in standing posture holding the conch (sankha) and discus (chakra) in his upper hands.  The lower right hand in abhaya hasta mudra and lower left hand resting on his hip and flanked by Ubhaya Nachiyar (Sri Devi and Bhu Devi).  Lord is composed of stucco (sudha) of herbals (வர்ண கபால திவ்ய திருமேனி). The two sages Markandeya (மார்கண்டேயா) and Bhirgu (பிருகு) also appear with folded hands.


Procession deity Mannarkoil
The Rajagopalaswamy, the bronze processional deity appear along with goddess Andal and Garuda in the main sanctum.  Also there are bronze icons of Sri Rama, Sita,  Lakshmana and Hanuman found in this sanctum. A small and cute Garuda idol is located before the main sanctum. Also there are flagstaff and balipeeta before the sanctum.

Sitting Perumal @ First stage
A narrow flight of stairs, leading to the first stage has been constructed on the south prakaram of the main sanctum on the ground stage. The Lord appears in sitting posture in the first stage of the ashtanga vimana. A small hole or gap (Pillai Thondu) is found before the sitting perumal.  In Tamil 'Thondu' means way. The women beseeching child boon will pass through this 'Pillai Thondu' as part of their votive prayer to the Lord. Another flight of stairs with narrow width leads to the second stage of vimana. At the second stage still above the first stage the Lord appears reclining on Adisesha.

Mannarkoil Ashtanga vimana
Reclining Perumal @ Second stage
The reclining Perumal has two two different prakaras 1. broader elephant pass (yanai thondu or yanai mudukku) and 2. narrower cat pass (poonai thondu or poonai mudukku). There is a wooden mandapa before the reclining Perumal. The roof of this mandapa has the carved images of zodiac signs. The shrines in the first and second are built with lime mortar and palm sugar. Thus Lord Veda Narayana Perumal graces his devotees in three postures – standing, sitting and reclining.

Ashtangavimana Second stage

The east facing temple has single entrance and two prakarams, an ardhamandaba, mahamnadaba, connecting mandaba surrounded by a cloister mandapa (திருச்சுற்று மாளிகை) around the main sanctum. There are separate shrines for goddesses Vedavalli and  Bhuvanavalli in the circumambulatory path. The circumambulatory path also has separate shrines for Lord Narasimha and Viswakshena. The stucco images of both the goddesses appear seated. Vaishnava saint Kulasekara Azhvar (stucco image) is enshrined in a separate shrine in the northern prakara with separate flagstaff and balipeeta before the sanctum. The sanctums of two Vaishnava acharyas Ramanuja and Manavalamamunigal are located in two separate mandapas. This elaborately decorated structure exhibits typical of the Nayaka architectural style with exquisitely carved composite pillars. There are life size statues of Lord Rama and other gods, kings with folded hands forming part of the monolithic pillars.

Legend

The Mannarkoil region was once dense forest with jack trees. After paying visit to many holy shrines, sages Brigu and Markandeya reached Mannarkoil for penance. They prayed the Lord to appear before them in his three postures (standing, sitting and reclining postures) and Lord Veda Narayana Perumal appeared before them in the same way. The sages expressed their wishes to the Lord and prayed the Lord to appear before one and all who manage to visit this shrine and bless them for happiness and prosperity. Lord gave his consent and decided to stay at Mannarkoil and continue to bless all devotees.

History

The Tamirabarani - Ghadananadi river region was established as a Chola colony after the Chola conquest of Pandyan country in the 10th century A.D. Jatavarman alias Sundara Chola Pandya (1017-18 A.D), the Chola-Pandya king aka Chola Viceroy (feudatory of the Rajendra Chola I) formed new townships and converted the  forest lands for cultivation.  The inscriptions at the Veda Narayana Perumal  temple at Mannarkoil village informs us that the big Brahmadeyam village of 'Rajaraja Chaturvedi Mangalam' in Mullinadu in the 'Mudikonda Chola Valanadu' of Raja Raja Pandinadu was made over to Brahmins as gifts. The hamlets of 'Ilangokudi' (today's Ambasamudram), Kallidaikurichi, Aththala Nallur, Vazuthiyoor, Alwarkurichi and Pappankurichi were parts of this big Brahmadayam village (now Brahmadesam).

Rajagopalaswami Kulasekara Azhwar temple, a Chola temple in the land of Pandyas, was built by Chera king  Rajasimha (1028- 1043 A.D.) with the permission of Rajendera Chola I. The Chera has also donated land to the temple at a later date. The village is also known as Rajendra Chola Vinnagaram, named after the Chola monarch Rajendra Chola I, who has made significant contribution to the temple. Jatavarma Chola Pandya has also made considerable contributions. Finally there are contributions from Nayaka rulers.

Kulasekara Azhvar
Kulasekara Azhvar Thiruvarasu temple
Kulasekara Azhvar, one of the twelve azhvars and believed to be a king from Kerala region (some other consider him as ruler of Kolli hills or Madurai Koodal or Kongu regions). During his early years, he conquered Chola and Pandya kings and was a force to reckon with. Lord Vishnu blessed  him with spiritual insight and led him to renounce power and sing hymns in praise of the Lord and the shrines of the Lord. After having darshan of Lord in several shrines, the Azhvar reached Mannarkoil and he had an emotional attachment with Lord Rajagopalan. It is believed that Kulasekara Azhvar brought away the bronze idol of Lord Rajagopalan from Mannargudi forcibly since he showed intense emotion with Rajagopalan. His aradhana idols Sri Rama, Lakshmana and Sita are being worshiped here as ablution deity (abhisheka moorthy).  The saint spent his last 30 years in Mannarkoil and attained moksha here. Therefore Mannarkoil has become the Thiruvarasu Koil (place where Azhvars join the feet of the Lord, is called 'Thiruvarasu' ) for Kulasekara Azhvar.  As a token of respect, the temple authorities have aptly named this temple as Rajagopalaswamy Kulasekara Perumal temple. His shrine is unusually provided with flag post and bali peetam. Surprisingly Pandya country is known for many 'Thiruvarasus' of Azhvars: Nammazhvar Thiruvarasu at Azhvar Thirunagari (Tamarind Tree), Periazhvar Thiruvarasu at Alagarkoil;  Tirumangaiazhvar Thiruvarasu at Tirukurungudi (Malaimel Nambi).

Inscription

There are numerous inscriptions of Jatavarman Sundara-Chola Pandya found on the outer (southern, western and northern) walls of the main vimana base dating back to the Chola period:- 

According to Ep. Ind., Vol. XI, pp. 294 the Chera  king Rajasimha was a contemporary of the first viceroy Jatavarma Sundara Chola Pandya. Inscriptions mention about the existence of Temple Mahasabha empowered to register all the land grants from monarchs - Chola and Pandya rulers. The land grants were realized when these rulers camped in near by places like Velaikurichi and Kallidaikurichi. In this way there are references about the gifting of the village of Velancholai  (வேலன்சோலை or வேலஞ்சோலை) to the temple.

The 4th year reign - inscription records some decisions taken in the meeting of the assembly held in a hall of the ambalam about the land and houses granted to the gardeners, drummers, potters, garland makers, torch bearers and temple dance girls (devaradiyar). Location: on the south wall of the temple, (ARE No 107 of 1905 - SII Vol XIV 132). 

The 6th year reign - inscription records the order about the gift of taxes on the land (endowed as a devadana to the temple) in a village called Manabharana Chaturvedimangalam. Location: on the north wall of the temple (ARE No 108 of 1905 - SII Vol XIV 133)

On the 139th day in the 13th year reign - inscription records the details of land sale by the sabha of Rajaraja Chaturvedimangalam to the temple. The 14 and odd veli of land in extent was regrouped into a new hamlet called Sola Pandyanallur and converted  into a tax-free devadana. (Ref: ARE No. 109 and 144 of 1905) Location: on the west wall of the temple (ARE No. 110 of 1905 - SII Vol XIV 145).
 
In the 14th year reign - inscription registers the sale of the village Manabharana Chaturvedimangalam, a brahmadeya in Mulli Nadu, which was the property of two brahmanas of Nigarilisola Chaturvedimangalam named Govindan Madhava bhattan and Govindan Tiruvikraman, to the temple. Also records that the brahmanas had originally obtained the village as the gurus of the ruling dynasty. Location:  on the north wall of the temple (ARE No. 106 of 1905 - SII Vol XIV 148). 
 
In the 18th year reign - inscription registers the sale by the sabha of Rajaraja Chaturvedimangalam to the temple. Location: on the north wall of the temple (ARE No. 109 of 1905 - SII Vol XIV 144).

Another inscription records gift of land to 12 brahmins who had settled down in the village from towns such as Thirukurungudi, Tirukurugur (Azhwar Thirunagari) and Thirumaliruncholai (Azhagar Koil), in recognition of their recitation of the 'Thiruvaimozhi' in the Thiruvaimozhi Mandapam (even now called in  the same).

One more inscription records to the Mahasabha accepting the legacy of land from two widows only after their male relatives had agreed to the land being gifted to the temple. In cases where the signatories to a contract were illiterate, others had signed on their behalf.

Two other inscriptions record routine matters like 1. the appointment of Sankaranayanar as the dharmakarta in Kollam year 764; and 2. the gift of land to some common people like the temple watchman.

Mural Paintings
 
Effacement of the Murals in the name of Conservation
Mural Paintings defacement
Mural painting of Lord Narasimha effaced and defaced
Mural Painting of Narasimha
The author in his article Paramount Public cry for preservation of India’s Cultural Heritage   refer to the defacement of mural paintings in this temple. His photographs (shown here - taken three years ago) show some surviving mural paintings juxtaposed with the white washed wall on the right where a ceiling-high painting of Lord Narasimha once existed.

Festival 

A number of festivals are celebrated in this temple. The temple is agog with activity during the Chithirai Brahmotsavam is conducted in the Tamil month Chithirai (April - May). Procession of Azhvar Pushpa Pallakku (flower palanquin) and Teppotsavam (float festival) in the Tamil month Thai (Jan - Feb).

How to Get there?

Mannarkoil village is located about 5 km from Ambasamudram  on the western side of Tenkasi - Kutralam Highway. Ambasamudram is is 35 km Tirunelveli. Plenty of buses are plying from Tirunelveli as well as from Tenkasi. 



Reference

  1. Besant Nagar (Wikipedia) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Besant_Nagar
  2. In the name of a devotee. The Hindu.
  3. Paramount Public cry for preservation of India’s Cultrual Heritage  http://www.hindujagruti.org/news/10650.html 
  4. Ramayanam before Kamban 76 - Mannar Koil http://ponniyinselvan.in/forum/discussion/44839/ramayanam-before-kamban-76-mannar-koil/p1
  5. South Indian Inscriptions Vol XIV Pandya Inscriptions: Chola-Pandya Viceroys
  6. The connection between Kulasekara Azhwar and Mannargudi Rajagopalan http://vishishtadhvaitham.blogspot.in/2014/10/the-connection-between-kulasekara.html
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