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Monday, February 23, 2015

Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 2.2: Malayadikurichi Cave Temple and Sankaranarayanar Kovil

Mahadeva swamy Cave Temple, Malaiyadikurichi
Refer Picasa Album for more photographs on  Malaiyadikurchi
After lunch at Sankarankovil we continued our travel to Malaiyadikurichi Rock-cut cave. From Sankarankovil we traveled towards Puliankudi (புளியங்குடி) road and took diversion at Mullikulam and further proceeded via Thalaivankottai to reach Malaiyadikurichi village. The rock-cut cave is located towards northern side at the outskirts of the village on a rock slope of the hillock.

Name: Mahadeva swamy Cave Temple, Malaiyadikurichi (மலையடிக்குறிச்சி)
Presiding Deity: Mahadeva swamy (மஹாதேவ ஸ்வாமி) (Lord Shiva)
Consort: Marakathavalli Amman (மரகதவல்லி அம்மன்) appears in a separate sanctum. (Later addition)
Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 03.30 and 05.00 am.
Category: Early Pandya Rock-cut cave at Malaiyadikurichi
Architecture Style: Early Pandya style

Architecture: The Malaiyadikurichi rock-cut cave temple consists of a rock-cut sanctum, a mukhamandpa (முகமண்டபம்) or the rectangular pavilion (hall) resting on pillars, facade of the cave, and the structural mahamandapa (மகாமண்டபம்) (an open pavilion (hall) resting on pillars) all arranged consecutively facing east..


The cave temple is surrounded  by the perimeter wall. The entrance to the mahamandapa is seen both on the east and the south. Two Nandhis (நந்தி) images facing the sanctum are located before the eastern entrance. Also there is another Nandhi image facing the sanctum of the consort is located at the southern entrance.

South Entrance showing Nandhis
The pillared mahamandapam or entrance pavilion (hall),  5.70 mts in the east - west and 5.17 mts in the south - north directions, was an addition made in the frontage to the rock-cut cave temple during the Nayaka Rule. The conspicuous components of the mahamandapam basement are upanam, kantha with padha, and pattika or peruvajana. The walls sectioned by brahmakanta (square) pilasters and above the pilasters there are vettu potikas holding the prastara components such as uttira (beam), vajanam, valabhi and kapotha with kudus. The flight of two steps leads to the mahamandapam. was an addition made in the frontage built during the Pandya Rule

Pillared Mahamandapam with Nandhi

The pilasters (door frames) at the eastern and southern entrances bear small nagabandhas, lotus medallion and torana. The roof of the mahamandapam is supported by pillars segmented as three squares with kattu in the middle. Above the pillars, vettu potikas extend its limbs to support prastara components - uttiram, vajana and valabhi. 
Sanctum of consort Marakathavalli Amman: South facing sanctum has upa-peetam, wall without pada, uttiram, vajanam, valabhi and kapotham. The front wall of this sanctum show inscriptions in fragments. Also there are inscriptions on the faces of pillars and there are few inscriptions on the northern wall. Few inscription stones re-fixed on the wall in an inverted direction during renovation. 

Goddess Marakathavalli appears wearing jatamakuta and the right hand holding the flower and the left hand rested on the lap.

Marakathavalli Amman
Facade: Two pillars and two pilasters supports facade. Comparing the upper brahmakanta (square) the lower brahmakanta (square) and kattu are larger. Except  western face of the square pillar, all the faces are decorated with circular medallions with variety of flower patterns - lotus whorls or kodikarukku (leaf pattern). One of the circular medallion is decorated with lotus flower whorls and an image at the center appears in lalithasanam posture with palm leaf coil ear ornament, haram with pendant, short robe around waist and the breast band. The image appear seated and resting its right hand on a pillow. Two chauri bearers also appear. The medallions in the eastern upper faces of the pilaster are also decked with lotus flower whorls. The upper northern face of the pilaster at southern wall possess makara medallion surrounded by kodikarukku (foliate leaf pattern) motif. Similarly the pilaster at northern wall is decorated with medallion with swan (annam) motif at the center.

Lotus Medallion
Kodikarukku

Kodikarukku
Kodikarukku
Lotus Medallion with center figure

Kodikarukku with swan

The taranga potikas with unique coiled edges  and broad median patta rest on pillars and pilasters. The coiled pattern taranga potikas appear unique and different from Tirumalapuram taranga potikas. The potikas support the prastara elements, like uttiram vajana and valabhi, running adjoining roof. The kapota extends out and joins with mahamandapa roof.

Taranga Potika mid-band
Mukhamandapa: The facade extends to the rectangular mukha mandapa which measures 5.32 mts in north-south and 1.91 mts in east-west directions. The unifloor (evenly paved) forms part of the facade as well as mukhamandapa. The lateral walls and roof are forming part of mother rock and they appear plain and simple. The northern part of the wall bears the inscription of the Pandya king Sri Vallabha. The sanctum is excavated from the mid-western wall and appear as the projection. Two shallow niches (enclosed by two square pilasters) are carved on the western wall one on each side to the sanctum. The northern niche shows the traces bas relief image as a silhouette. Looks like a four armed human mounted on elephant and the umbrella and chauris are visible. The southern niche also shows the traces of bas relief image as a silhouette. Appears like a divine form and the bird seated on a stem of twiner is visible.

4 Armed Human Mounted on Elephant
Divine Form in Niche
Sanctum: The 41 cm high plinth (padabhanda adishtanam) with components of jagadi, vritta (rounded) kumuda, kantha flanked kampa without pada and pattika. The padas bear vedikas, vedikantha and kampa. The front wall of the sanctum bears two shallow koshtas one on either side. The two koshtas bear the traces of scrapped bas relief images. Both the bas relief images could be the dwarapalakas. The flight of steps leading to the sanctum also appears to have damaged. Hence new steps added at later date.

Sanctum & Niche Fig. Erased
 Makara Torana: The ornate Makara Torana (Capricorn Arch or festoon) carved out of a single stone with four opposed fierce makara-heads (crocodile heads) adorns above the entrance of the sanctum. It reminds us the Pallava style Makara torana at the Satrumallesvara rock-cut cave temple at Dalavanur and Draupadi ratha at Mamallapuram. Two opposing capricon heads, (facing north and south) are carved at the center of the door lintel and they appear spitting warriors (in miniature size) holding swords and shields. A male image seated on lotus flower flanked by two chauris is shown within the floral ring located at the center between two makara heads. The parallel pair of opposing makara heads are placed one each in the southern and northern corners of the festoon. The intricately coiled feathers appear spread across the entire door lintel.

Makara Torana (4 opposed Capricorn Heads)

Makara Torana: Center Figure
Makara Torana: Figure at Side
Makara Torana: Figure enlarged
 The rectangular sanctum cell (measurement: 1.71 mts height x 1.47 mts width x 1.63 mts length) holds a monolithic Shivalingam with square avudaiyar (ஆவுடையார்). The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 0.74 mts in width and 0.41 mts in length and vesara (cylindrical) bana measures 0.29 mts in height and the plinth of the avudaiyar is composed with the elements like upana, athopadmavari (string of inverted lotus), kantha with kampa, urdhva padmavari (string of lotus), pattika with kampa. The gomukha (கோமுகம்) is seen on the northern side of the avudaiyar with a spout like formation.

Inscription:  The rock-cut cave is rich in inscriptions dating from the 7th century A.D. to 10th century A.D.

A Tamil (script) inscription is carved on the eastern face of the potika of the the northern pillar.  It stands as the unique record about the excavation of the cave temple by Sathan Eran of Sevur (சேவூர் சாத்தன் ஈரன்) for Pandya King Ko maran Sendan (கோ மாறன் சேந்தன்) during the king's seventeenth regnal year i.e, 637 A.D. It helps us to ascertain the exact date of the cave temple.
 
Ko maran Sendhan: Inscription
Inscription Northern Wall: Reversely built

Two inscriptions are found on the northern wall.  The royal order was issued to Devakanmi (தேவகன்மி) and Sri Maheswara kankani (மஹேஸ்வர கண்காணி) serving in the 'Pinakkarukkum Mahadeva' temple (பிணக்கறுக்கும் மஹாதேவர் கோவில்) vide inscription  dated in the 3rd regnal year of the Pandya king Sri Vallabha (ஸ்ரீ வல்லபன்). The inscription mentions Malaiyadikurichi as the Thenpitakai (தென்பிடாகை) of the Sri Paranthaka Chaturvedimangalam (ஸ்ரீ பராந்தக சதுர்வேதிமங்கலம்) of Arinattu Brahmadesam (ஆரிநாட்டு பிரம்மதேசம்). The royal order also mentions about the land tax exemptions (நிலவரி விலக்கு) to the piece of lands already gifted for the daily puja rituals (திருப்படிமாற்றுள்ளிட்ட நித்த நிவந்தம்) of Mahadeva temple by the Sri Vallabha and his father.   

Another inscription dated in the 11th regnal year on the 143rd day registers the gift of Ammaikkulam (அம்மைக்குளம்).

The inscriptions on the faces of the pillars in the mahamanadapa mentions the names such as Konamalai Iramanarayana Pillai (கோணமலை இராமநாராயண பிள்ளை),  Patpanatha Pillai (பற்பநாத   பிள்ளை) and Palaimutram Chittan (பாலைமுற்றம்  சித்தன்).

Another royal order was issued to Devakanmis (தேவகன்மி) and Shiva-brahmins (சிவபிராமணர்கள் ) of this temple vide inscription dated in the 12th regnal year of the Pandya King Maravarman Sundarapandyan II (இரண்டாம் மாறவர்மன் சுந்தரபாண்டியன்) (1238-1251).

One more inscription registers the tax exemption to the village called Samanthanallur (சாமந்தநல்லூர்) gifted already by one Chokkanar Samanthan (சொக்கனார் சாமந்தன்) for daily puja rituals (சந்திகால திருப்படிமாற்றுள்ளிட்ட நித்த நிவந்தம்).

It is learned from fragments of inscriptions about the land measuring stick (நில அளவைக்கோல்) called 'Virapandyan kol (வீரபாண்டியன் கோல்) (stick), Pannirendadi kol (பன்னிரெண்டடிக் கோல்) (12 feet measuring stick) as well as few names of the Pandya irrigation canals and tanks and the names of the officials of the Pandya kingdom.

Period: The inscription records the date as 17th regnal year (637 A.D.) and the name of the Pandya king Ko maran Sendhan (கோ மாறன் சேந்தன்) who was instrumental for the excavation of this cave temple. Hence the same date could be assignable to this rock-cut cave.

Getting there

Malaiyadikurichi PIN: 627755, is a small village located near Dharugapuram (தாருகாபுரம்) in the taluk of Sivagiri (சிவகிரி), division of Kovilpatti, district of Tirunelveli, in the State of Tamil Nadu. From Sankarankovil Malaiyadikurichi can be reached by traveling on the Sankarankovil - Puliangudi road and take diversion at 13.4 km and proceed Dharugapuram via Thalaivankottai (தலைவன்கோட்டை).  Puliyankudi , Sivagiri , Sankarankoil and Rajapalayam are the nearby Cities to Malayadikuruchi. Malaiyadikurichi is located about 17 km from Sankarankovil; 09 km from Puliyankudi; 11 km from Sivagirit and 30 km from Rajapalayam. It is located 75 km towards North from District head quarters Tirunelveli. From Chennai it would be around 614 km.

By Road: This is a small village hence you may not get proper and regular transport, so arrange a taxi from whichever town you plan to visit here.

Railway station: Sivakasi Railway Station is major railway station 53 KM near to Malayadikuruchi

Airport: Tuticorin Airport- 100 km; Madurai Airport   111 km and Trivandrum International Airport- 112 km

Reference

  1. Inscriptions Tells Tales. Pradeep Chakravarthy. The Hindu Jaunuary 14, 2011
  2. மலையடிக்குறிச்சி குடைவரையும் கல்வெட்டுக்களும். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு. நளினி, இரா. கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர். இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி.  pp. 81 - 97

Sankaranarayanar Temple, Sankarankovil

Refer Picasa album for more pictures on Sankaranarayanar Temple
After visiting the rock-cut cave Malaiyadikurichi we returned back to Sankarankovil by 05.30 pm. As there was enough time, we thought of visiting the Sankaranarayanar Temple. The temple was not included in our itinerary.

Prime deity: Sankara Linga Swamy aka. Sankaranaaraayana Swamy
Procession Deity: -     
Goddes / Consort: Gomathi Amman
Holy Tree:: Punnai (Botanical Name - Calophyllum inophyllum)
Holy Water: Naga Sunai theertham
Historical Name: Poo Kailaayam, Punnai Vanam, Seeraasapuram, Seeraasai, Vaaraasaipuram, Koozhai Nagar.
Date of visit: 23 January 2015 from 06.00 to 08.00 pm

Temple Tower
Facade
Mandapam
Sankaranarayana Shrine: This temple is the representation of fusion of two Hindu faiths Saivism and Vaishnavism. The name Sankara joining with the name Narayana has given rise to Lord Sankaranarayana.  The Lord  is the combined manifestation of Siva and Vishnu (half - Lord Shiva and the other half - Lord Vishnu) and therefore the sanctum houses the deity by the name Sankaranarayanan, which is Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu grace the devotees together.  Lord Sankaranarayana shrine is in between the shrines of Lord Shiva and Gomathi Amman.

Lord Shiva is fond of holy bath or ablution (Abhishekam) - the process of bathing Shivalinga with the prescribed eleven ingredients. At this shrine holy bath is offered to to Lord Chandramouleeswara the Spatika Shivalinga or crystal Shivalinga. Lord Vishnu is Alankara Priyar (Desirous of ornamentation). Hence Narayana form of this shrine have elaborate alankaram (decoration ceremony).

Lord Sankaralingam Shrine: Lord Sakaralingam (Shivalingam) appears in a separate sanctum.

Gomathi Amman Shrine: In Sanskrit 'Go' means cow and 'Mathi' means moon. Goddess Ambica is named as Gomathi since she wears a face as radiant as the Moon and being the custodian of cows. For Gomathi, Avudaiyambikai' is the equivalent term in Tamil. Goddess is decorated with flowers on Mondays and appears with golden skirts on Fridays. Sri Chakra (Agna Chakra), personifying the glory and power of Shakti, is instituted either under the peeta or in front of Gomathi Amman. 

Legend: The temple is full of legends. Sambha and Padma (Two serpent kings kept worshiping Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu respectively) and they wanted to understand as to who was superior Hari or Shiva ? It is at this temple that they were shown that Shiva and Hari are the same (ஹரியும் சிவனும் ஒன்னு).

Manikkireevan, a deva took birth as a Paraiyan (out caste) after being cursed by Goddess Parvathi. He was known as Kavaraparaiyan. By chance he demolished a snake pit and later found a snake and a Shivalingam inside the pit. He got panicked after seeing snake pit and rushed to inform King Ukkira Pandya. During the same time Ukkira Pandya's  elephant also fell into a pit and could not move. Following this the King also heard the voice of Lord Shiva directing him to construct a temple at the spot.

Manikkreevan
Manikkreevan

Architecture

One of the  huge temple complex (4.5 acre) that can be found in the district of Tirunelveli and dedicated to Sankaranarayana. Temple architecture under the Nayaks is quite detailed and elaborate. The temple has a 9 tier imposing Rajagopuram.  This temple is surrounded by high perimeter walls and the gopuram has many beautiful stucco images. 

The large courtyards surrounding the three sanctums of this temple. The temple tower is covered from top to bottom with a vast number of heavily stuccoed images of the Hindu pantheon. The pillars in the mandapas depict life size sculptures - Rathi, Manmadha, Kuravan, Manakkreevan and others. The beautiful fresco paintings adorning the sanctum walls and mandapa ceiling. The stone idol of Nataraja is unique. Lord Narasimha finds a place in koshta in lieu of Lingodbhavar. Nandhi before the sanctum is under a Rudraksha Pandal-tent. 

Ornated Wall
Paintings around Sanctum

Inscription: The construction of this temple was commenced at 1022 A.D. by Pandya king Ukkira Pandyan.

Unique features:

  1. One of the Pancha Bootha(five elements) Sthalas in the South Pandya country.
  2. People believe that the holy Sand from the anthill (Puttrumann)  from this temple has therapeutic powers which has a holistic way of healing skin diseases  .
  3. Devotees believe that Sankarankoil‘s Nagasunai (sacred tank) have been dug by serpent kings named Paduman and Sangam which has a miraculous power to heal those who bathe there.


Festival: Adi - Thapasu Temple falls in Auguest, are celebrated for 12 days with gaiety. 

How to Get there
Sankaranarayanaswamy Temple is located in Sankarankoil Town, Tirunelveli Distirict. It is located 33 km south of Rajapalayam and 120 km south of Madurai and 56 Km NorthWest of Thirunelveli and about 40 kms east of Western ghat Hills.

Train: Sankarankoil is situated in the train route from Chennai to Quilon and shencottai.

Youtube: Sankaran Kovil * Shiva & Vishnu as Sankaranarayanar Selvaganapathy S

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