Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 4.1: Brahmmadesam Temple

Brahmmadesam Rajagopuram

Brahmmadesam Temple Mandapas

Brahmmadesam Temple Water tank

The 125 km (78 miles) long river Tamirabarani descends down the Western ghats near Papanasam, where it slides and cascades as Kalyanatheertham falls and Agasthiar falls. From Papanasam the river flows on the plains eastwards and confluences with Manimuthar River at the 36th km near Aladiyoor village, Ambasamudram taluk. The twin towns Ambasamudram and Kallidaikurichi are located respectively on the north and south banks of Tamirabarani, after which the river also confluences with the tributary Gadananathi (River Gadana) at the 43rd km near Tiruppudaimaruthur Ambasamudram taluk. The perennial river Tamirabarani and the seasonal rivers flows through  five taluks i.e, Tenkasi, Ambasamudram, Tirunelveli, Palayamkottai, and Nanguneri taluks in Tirunelveli district and make region fertile. The Srivaikundam taluk at the eastern part of Tirunelveli district (towards Thoothukudi) has given birth to many (Vaishnavite!) temples since from ancient times and noted for spiritual tourism.  The western taluks Tirunelveli district (towards Tenkasi) has also given birth to many (Saivite!) temples since from ancient times and noted not only for spiritual tourism but also for pleasure tourism. The spiritual towns such as Kutralam, Tenkasi, Ilanji, Keezhapavur, Shivasailam, Singampatti, Brahmadeasam, Mannarkovil, Ambasamudram, Kallidaikurichi, Tiruppudaimarudur, Aththalanallur, Viravanallur and Cheranmadevi bears many temples are in the itinerary of heritage tourism. Ambasamudrum is the gateway to seven great destinations in Tirunelveli namely Tenkasi, Manimuthar (dam), Manjolai (hills), Agasthiyar falls, Kalakkad-Mundanthurai Tiger reserve, Karaiyar and Banatheertha falls, all nestled in the laps of the Sahyadrees (Western Ghats) and these places are in the itinerary of pleasure tourism.  The post monsoon season during the months of September to March is best suitable for pleasure and heritage tourism.

After sumptuous breakfast at Kutralam, we proceeded to picturesque Ambasamudram Region situated on the foothills of the Western Ghats. The two syllables 'Amba' and 'Samudra' imply that the region flourished with its heritage temples and water bodies. The town is also known by the name 'Vilankurichi.' Sage Agastya is closely associated with this region. The drive along the state highway to Ambasamudram was exhilarating. The Tamirabarani river and its tributaries were visible at many places. The verdant green blanket of shimmering lush green paddy fields interspersed with banana plantations and coconut groves was enjoyable. The climate was cool, humid and pleasant. Our first stop was  Sri Kailasanathar Temple, Brahmmadesam

Sri Kailasanathar Temple, Brahmmadesam

• Prime deity: Kailasanathar (Lord Shiva). Swayambu lingam (self-manifested)
• Consort: Goddess Brahmanayaki Amman aka Periyanayaki
• Name: Brahmmadesam
• Other Names: Ayneeswaram
• Holy Water: Brahma Teertham, Romesa Teertham, Tamrabharani and Ghatna rivers
• Holy Tree: Ilanthai Tree (Ziziphus jujuba)
• Holy Hymn: Tirunavukkarasar sung Tevaram hymn.
• Location: Brahmmadesam is located on the southern bank of River Karunai. About 4 km North-West of Ambasamudram Town.

Unique Features:

• One of the Tevara Vaippu Stalam temples sung by Tirunavukkarasar (The shrine is under reference in the Sixth book (Tirumurai) of Tevaram). . One among the Adi Nava Kailayam shrines and dedicated to Surya (sun god).
• The many of the temple structures were added by Cholas, Pandyas and Nayaka monarchs.
• Huge temple complex with three gopurams and seven vimanas 
• Huge intricately carved wooden gates at rajagopuram entrance.
• Stone Chain:  Attractive single stone chain and bell
• Single stone Dharma Nandhi, largest in Tirunelveli district, with intricate sculpture
• Lord Nataraja composed with Punugu(extraction from Civet Cat)
• Lord Athma Vyakya Dhakshinamoorthy appear in the south prakara of main sanctum unique posture
• Lord Kankalanathar (one of the variants of Lord Bhairava - a form of Lord Shiva) deity is unique and appear in a separate shrine along with other deities and sages.
• The birthplace of Sri Sarvangna Atmendra Saraswati Swamigal, the second Acharya of Kanchi Sankara Mutt  

Legend:

The original deity in this temple Badhari Vaneswara (Shivalingam) was worshipped by Romasa Maharishi, the grand son of Lord Brahma, and so the village was named as Brahmamdesam. The Ghatana Nadi Mahatmiam (purana) takes note of three Swayambu (self emanating) Shivalingams of Shivasailam, Tiruvaleeswaram and Brahmmadesam emerged at the same time.

History:

The Tamirabarani - Ghadananadi river region was established as a Chola colony after the Chola conquest of Pandyan country in the 10th century A.D. Jatavarman alias Sundara Chola Pandya (1017-18 A.D), the Chola-Pandya king aka Chola Viceroy (feudatory of the Rajendra Chola I) formed new townships and converted the  forest lands for cultivation.  The inscriptions at the Vedanarayana temple at Mannarkoil village informs us that the big Brahmadeyam village of 'Rajaraja Chaturvedi Mangalam' in Mullinadu in the 'Mudikonda Chola Valanadu' of Raja Raja Pandinadu was made over to Brahmins as gifts. The hamlets of 'Ilangokudi' (today's Ambasamudram), Kallidaikurichi, Aththala Nallur, Vazuthiyoor, Alwarkurichi and Pappankurichi were parts of this big Brahmadayam village (now Brahmadesam).

The present temple and the Brahmmadesam village were gifted to the brahmins by the Rajaraja Chola I for chanting  four vedas. The monarch built the original temple including the sanctum, ardhamandapa, mukhamandapa during 10th century A.D. The structural additions were made by various royal dynasties: Pandya kings built few mandapas; the intricate wooden decors on the roof of the mandapa at the entrance were carried out by Chera kings; Nayaka king Viswanatha Nayaka raised the exceedingly large seven tier east facing Rajagopuram and the gopuram at the back side as well as the taller perimeter wall around the temple complex; Hoysala kings also made some structural additions to this shrine.

Architecture:

The Brahmmadesam temple is huge hidden gem of Chola, Pandya, Vijayanagara and Pandya style architecture. A large and prominent lotus tank invite the devotees from outside the temple tower.  The devotees and connoisseurs of art and architecture will enter into the Brahmmadesam temple through the east facing massive seven tier Chola style rajagopuram (brick and wooden structure) profusely adorned with stucco images. The top of the gopuram has a shalashikhara resembling a barrel made to rest on its side and crowned with seven finials (kalasams). The steps leading to all the seven tiers of rajagopuram. The seventh tier of the gopuram has small corridors on all four sides and served as watch tower.

Entrance Carved Roof (Stone work)

Tall wooden door with panels

The extremely tall wooden main doors at the Rajagopuram entrance with intricately carved panels let in the connoisseurs to their surrealistic world  of gorgeous architecture and iconography. The temple gave shelter to local people while foreign invasions and this 'Kutavarai' door with conical nails prevented elephants from pushing the door and protected people from entry inside. Also there are two more gopurams found in this temple. The tall and wide perimeter wall and the adjoining 2 feet wide inner wall (Alodi suvar) enabled the soldiers to stand and observe the enemy movements. There are seven vimanas in the huge temple complex.

Pillared Mandapa at the Entrance

Aesthetically designed long pillared mandapa is located between rajagopuram and main sanctum. The mandapa is supported by 10 square-based pillars and two non-figural cluster pillars carved with 12 lion brackets and 12 drop brackets. The pillar faces also bear bas reliefs. The roof of the pillared mandapa showcases the Kerala wooden roof pattern but sculpted in stone.

Large Single stone Dharma Nandhi

The single stone Dharma Nandhi idol, located at the entrance is the largest in Tirunelveli district  and surprisingly distinctive with its brilliant carvings. Balipeeta and dwajasthamba on carved platform also appear huge. The unparalleled bell and three chain links sculpted from single stone is suspended from the roof. The niches on the outer wall for Ganapathi and Subramanya are sculpted according to mada kovil architecture. A small sanctum for the foursome Tevara sages is at south side. On top of the entrance to the main sanctum there is a small gopuram. At a vantage point all the gopuras and vimanas can seen together.

Main Sanctum:

The Brahmmadesam temple comprises of a main sanctum, an ardhamandapa and the mukha-mandapa. Lord Kailasanathar (Shivalingam), the presiding deity of this Brahmmadesam temple is enshrined in the east facing main sanctum of the temple.  There is a smaller size ardhamandapa in front of this sanctum, that leads to to the pillared maha-mandapa in front. The maha-mandapa is the long spacious construction consisting of carved pillars on which are bas relief images depicting compositions from Saivite mythology. The niches, on  the outer wall on either side of the entrance of the sanctum, houses the tall dwarapalakas. Lord Ganesha is also enshrined in a separate niche on the left corner of the outer sanctum wall. The vimana above the main sanctum is embellished with elegant images illustrating legends from puranas. A dwarf nandhi is located before the main sanctum.  There is a closed circumambulatory (Pradakshinapatha) passage around the sanctum. There are shrines for Surya, Chandra before the sanctum.   Saptamatrika. There are also few small sanctums  for Lord Athma Vyakya Dhakshinamoorthy (appear with chin mudra facing His own self in a rare self preaching posture), 63 Nayanmars, Jwarahara Deva, Balaganapathy and Mahishasuramardhini in the  circumambulatory path (prakara) of the main sanctum. Punuku Sabhapathi (Lord Nataraja) with consort and the sages Pathanjali and Vykarapathar are enshrined in the south facing sanctum located in the northern prakara of the main sanctum. Punugu is the highly perfumed substance extracted from a specific kind of  rarely living civet cat (Viverra Civetta) and the image of Lord Nataraja was composed with punugu.The statue of king Viswanatha Nayaka appear with folded hands appear in maha-mantapa before the sanctum. There are separate sanctums for Lord Nataraja and goddess Sivakami (bronze procession deities) in the maha-mandapa. On the way to Brahmmanayaki sanctum, one can notice the yali image with a stone ball on its wide opened mouth. No one is able to remove the ball from yali's mouth. 

Somavara Mandapa

Somavara mandapa (longshot)

Somavara mandapa (pillars)

This intricately sculpted pillared mandapa is located before goddess Brahmmanayaki shrine and nearer to Ilandai Adinathar shrine. Elaborately decorated pillars of this mandapa form an integral part of this architecture and have ornamental pendant (terminating in an inverted flower bud) potigai (or cornice bracket) or seated lion potigai.  On all four faces of the pillars are dotted with elaborate bas reliefs image compositions depicting mythological themes. Large life-size sculptures of  Bheema, Purushamrigam, Arjuna, Karna, Vali, Sugreeva, Rati and Manmadan adorn the pillars. Some other pillars are monolithic yali pillars showcasing the charging yali (often compared with hippogryphs) standing on hind legs with fore legs lifted.

 Brahmmanayaki sanctum

The south facing sanctum with vimana for goddess Parvati, worshiped here  as goddess Brahmmanayaki, is located in the outer enclosure (prakara).  This sanctum is far away from the main sanctum. Nandhi, balipeeta and flag staff are located before this sanctum.  There are minor sanctums or niches around the prakara for Saraswati, Arumugam with consorts Valli and Deivanai, Chandikeshvari, Siddhi Vinayaka, Saturn (Sanisvara) and Nalayirathamman (folk deity).

Sanctums for Associate Deities

Lord  Ilandai Adinathar aka Badhari Vaneswara (Shivalingam), believed as the original deity of Brahmmadeasam temple worshiped by Lord Brahma and his grandson Romasa Maharishi, is also situated in the northern corner in the outer circumambulatory path (prakara).

Ilandhaiadinathar Shrine

Therefore Ilandhai tree (Ziziphus jujuba) is associated with the original Shivalinga and Ilandai becomes the holy tree. The dwarapalakas are very appealing. Apart from Lord Kailasanathar the temple has four more Shivalingams enshrined in separate sanctums in the  second circumambulatory path (prakara): 2. Ilandhaiadinathar (Badari Vaneshwarar), 3. Kasi Viswanathar (with consort Viasalakshi), 4. Arunachalewarar (with consort Unnamulai) , and 5. Sundareswarar (with consort Meenakshi).

Kankalanathar Shrine:

Kankalanathar Shrine

The south facing Kankalanathar (Kankala  means skeleton - fearsome form of Lord Shiva with the skeleton) shrine is unique and found only in Brahmmadesam temple. The prime deity in the sanctum is Lord Kankalanathar (one of the three most popular aspects of Bhairava, a form of Lord Shiva  and the the others being Brahmashiraschedaka-murti and Bhikshatana-murti - known for seeking alms).  The Kankala-murti  iconography  is quite similar to Bhikshatana-murti and the subtle difference is that Bhikshatana is nude but Kankala-murti is clothed.

At this shrine Lord Kankalanatha and the Buta Ganas are the sculpted deities.  The 7 feet in high idol of Lord Kankalanathar appear in a sthanaka (standing) posture with his left leg straight and firm on the ground and his right one, slightly bent, suggesting walking. The lord wears jata makuta (crown like hair dress) with crescent moon on the right and a serpent and datura flowers on the left. He wears snake ornaments all over the body, yagnopavita (sacred thread) across the chest, waist-band on the waist with golden dagger tucked in it, and ordinary kundalas (earrings) or a makara-kundala (makara-shaped earring) in the right ear and a shankhapatra (earring made of conch) in the other.

Of the four arms, the lower left arm holds the damara (the hour-glass drum); the lower right arm beats the damara with bana (drum stick); the upper right hand stretched downwards in kataka mudra; and the upper left hand holds 'Kankala Danda' (skeleton-staff). The staff appear to be resting on the shoulders of the Lord. Some other legends point out that the Lord carries the corpse of Lord Visvakshena, the prime guardian of Lord Vishnu. The Lord appears with number of associate deities, sages, demonic attendants like Buta ganas, animals  and love-sick women. The six numbers of dwarf buta ganas appear in either sides of the Lord. All the six of them carry some music instruments like sirattai kinnari, mridangam, conch, flying whisk and flute.   


The rear wall shows the following bas relief stucco images: 1. Surya (sun) and Chandra (moon) on top; 2. Lord Kubera mounted on horse vehicle, Lord Brahma mounted on Swan (Hamsa or Anna pakshi), Lord Vishnu mounted on Garuda (Eagle) vehicle, and Lord Indira mounted on elephant vehicle; 3. The celestial beings like Kinnaras, Kimpurusha and Sage Agastya appear with his two consorts and the sage is holding Veena and some other instruments; 4. Lord Vigneshara mounted on Mooshika vehicle, Karthikeya mounted on peacock vehicle, Lord Vayu mounted on deer vehicle, Lord Varuna mounted on Makara vehicle, Lord Eshanan (Lord Shiva) mounted on bull vehicle and Lord Agni mounted on goat vehicle. There are also stucco images of lovely divas aka Apsara appear in various postures - standing, sitting, viewing mirror (adarsa), sleeping etc.


Arudra Mandapa  

Arudra mandapa (Yali pillars)

Arudra Mandapa, huge Nayaka / Vijayanagara style pillared mandapa, is located on the North Eastern corner of the temple complex and one can see this structural mandapa on his right side as and when he enters into the temple. The mandapa, built on  four to five feet high rectangular adhishtana with conventional moldings, has bas relief images on natya sastra and carved friezes at a fairly high kantha moulding. It also has ornate stepped entrance on the south side of the balustrades (parapets) with  mounted  rider on elephant, horse standing on its hind legs with fore legs lifted and mounted rider on the back, woman playing drum and the rampant yali.  The sixteen decorated peripheral pillars of this mandapa are elaborate compositions:  two rows of  four monolithic cluster pillars at the facade and twenty monolithic yali pillars at the rear side  showcasing the charging yali (often compared with hippogryphs) standing on hind legs with fore legs lifted. The mythological Yali motif, deemed as the hybrid of five animals i.e, lion head and body, goat horn, pigs ear, cow's tail, elephant trunk and tusk, has been widely adopted in Vijayanagara and Nayaka pillars. The leonine beast often imagined as hippogryph. Each cluster pillar is really a cluster of delicately carved smaller pillars around the central pillar shaft. Over the cluster pillars the  immense size  brackets support the heavily carved entabulatures and plane ceiling. The five to six feet high cluster and yali pillars have 12 carved lion brackets and 12 drop brackets. Some pillars also showcases awesome sculptures of elephant, amorous couples, dancers, musicians, sages, gods and goddesses depicting events from Hindu mythology and so many intricate carvings.

Temple timings: 7:30 AM to 9:30 AM 5:30 PM to 7:30 PM. Schedule to visit this temple early in the morning.

How to Get there

Location:  Brahmadesam (PIN 627413), an ancient Chola village, is about 4 km from Ambasamudram and located to the north-west of Ambasamudram, in Tirunelveli district, Tamil Nadu state, India. Brahmadesam is surrounded by Vikramasingapuram Taluk towards west , Pappakudi Taluk towards East, Cheranmahadevi Taluk towards East , Kadayam Taluk towards North.

Important temples:

• Chola built temples: Vedanarayana or Rajagopalaswamy Temple, Mannarkoil, Kailasanathar temple, Brahmadesam,  Bakthavatsala Perumal temple, Cheranmadevi, Kailasanathar temple Gangaikondan. Tirunarayanan Vinnagar temple, Attur. 
• Early Pandya inscriptions in temples: Ambasamudram Kasibanathawamy (Thirupothudaya (Erutha) Nayanar) temple and Sri Thirumoolanathar temple, Thiruvaleeswaram temple, Ayan, Thennazhagar Temple, Kovilkulam, Chandeeswarar shrine, Narumbunatha Swami Temple, Tirupudaimarudur, Poovananathar temple, Kovilpatti, Rajasimheswara temple, Kottai Karungulam, Vijayanarayanam temple, Vazhudheeswarar temple, Perungulam, Gajendravarada Perumal temple and Moondreeswarar Temple, Aththalanallur, Shiva temple, Seevalaperi, and Kariya Manikkam Perumal temple, Pathamadai.
• Vijayanagar-Nayak built temples: Venkatajalapathi temple Krishnapuram, Nava Tirupati temples.  
• Nearest Railway Station: Ambasamudram
• Nearest Airport: Madurai (162 km), Tuticorin (71 km), Trivandrum (71 km)
• How to reach: Well connected by road from Ambasamudram

Reference

1.  Ambasamudram Tourism - The Bosom of Mother Nature. Native Planet
2. Architectural and sculptural splendour. The Hindu July 24, 2011. 
3. Brahmadesam Arulmigu Kailasanathar Tirukoil sthala varalaru. Temple Devasthanam, Brahmadeam. 2014. 44p. 
4. Brahmadesam (Ambasamudram) (Wikipedia)
5. Controversial Sculpture Series - Part 3 - Kankalamurthy. Poetry in Stone (blog). 26 July 2012
6. Kankalamurti (Wikipedia)
7. Thamirabarani River (Wikipedia)