Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 1: Planning the Site Seminar

@ Kazhugumalai Photo courtesy: Ms Ramamani Jeyaraman

@ Kazhugumalai Photo courtesy: Kishore Mahadevan

@ Kazhugumalai Vettuvankoil Photo courtesy: Kishore Mahadevan

For the last five years, Tamil Heritage Trust (THT), an organization of heritage lovers in Chennai, have been organizing the site seminar every year as annual event. 'Prof Swaminathan mooted and organized the concept of a Site Seminar, to familiarize a few individuals passionately interested in the heritage of the Tamil country, but clueless about where and how to start.'  Table 1 shows the list of site seminars organized by Tamil Heritage Trust.

Table 1. List of Site Seminars Organized by Tamil Heritage Trust

Year	Name of the Site Seminar	Place or Region	State
2010	Mamallapuram Site Seminar Athyanthakaama Ashrama Vijaya	Mamallapuram	Tamil Nadu
2011	Ajanta and Ellora Site Seminar Paranjothi Yathirai	Ajanta & Ellora	Maharashtra
2012	Mukkudai Yathirai	Pudukkottai District	Tamil Nadu
2013	Site Seminar: Srirangam Tiruvaranga Ulaa	Srirangam	Tamil Nadu
2014	Gurjari Yatra - Gujarat Site Seminar	Gujarat Select Monuments	Gujarat
2015	Pandyan Yatra	Tirunelveli Region Select Monuments	Tamil Nadu

For the sixth site seminar 2015, 'the southern sections of Pandyan territory, centered around Tirunelveli region' was identified as the heritage site for and the Pandyan Yatra was undertaken by a team of 24 members between January 23 Friday and January 27 Tuesday 2015, both dates inclusive. I was one of the fortunate participant of the Pandyan Yatra.

THT's Pandyan Yatra was NOT a religious tour, or a pleasure trip or sightseeing excursion. Instead Pandyan Yatra clearly focused to cover only on art, archaeology, architecture, epigraphy, history, iconography aspects of the monuments.  The purpose of Pandyan Yatra was to intensely explore the heritage of the southern sections of Pandyan territory for deeper understanding the heritage of the region. 

Tirunelveli region was under the rule of the Pandya Dynasty and was known as 'Thenpandiyanadu'. The Imperial Cholas included this region under the province called 'Mudikonda Cholamandalam'. The Madurai Nayakas preferred to call it as 'Tirunelveli Seemai'. The British East India Company formulated the 'Tinnevelly district', which was composed of the present Tirunelveli and Thoothukudi districts and parts of the Virudhunagar and Ramanathapuram districts.

Map of Tirunelveli Region

The region also comprise all five geographical traditions of Sangam Tamil Literature: Kurinji (mountains), Mullai (forest), Marudham (paddy fields), Neithal (coastal) and Palai (desert). Ancient holy hill 'Pothigai,' the abode of Tamil sage Agasthiyar (who developed Tamil language) forms part of this region. The   crawling   clouds  on the Western Ghats, the picturesque Pothigai hills and the Kurtallam water falls are  the  special features which make  Tirunelveli  unique. Tirunelveli region is blessed with the perennial river Thamirabharani - the lifeline of the region and forms the major river basin in this region. The other  streams include Vaippar, Nambiar and Hanumanathi. The fertile land is blessed with lush green paddy fields, coconut groves, banana plantations,  water-falls and palm trees add a picturesque dimension. The region is dotted with many early Pandyan rock-cut caves and well-preserved structured temples built by Pandyas, Cholas and Nayakas.

Since the culturally rich Tirunelveli region is very vast, it is not easy to travel the entire region. Therefore the site seminar set to catch a glimpse of the region's heritage and planned to focus on some specified heritage monuments as shown in Table 2:

Table 2: Itinerary of Pandyan Yatra 2015

Date	Monuments	Region
23 Jan 2015	Kazhugumalai - Jain Monastery,	Kovilpatti Region
	Kazhugumalai - Vettuvankoil,
	Kazhugumalai - Kazhugachalamurthy Temple
24 Jan 2015	Malayadikurichi Rock cut Cave of Early Pandya	Sankarankovil Region
	Thirumalapuram Rock cut Cave of Early Pandya
	Singampatti Zamin Palace located near the foothills of Manjolai Estate
	Kutraleeswaran Temple and Chitra Sabha - one of five dancing halls of Lord Nataraja
25 Jan 2015	Mannar Koil Rajagoplalaswami Temple. Ashtanga Vimana.	Ambasamudram Region
	Thiruvalivaram Tiruvalisvarar Temple
	Brahmadesam Temple
	Kallidaikurichi Temples
	Ambasamudram Temples,
	Thirupudaimarudur Temple
	Cheranmadevi Bhakthavatsala Perumal Temple
26 Jan 2015	Tirukurungudi Nambi Temple (108 Divya Desam)	Nanguneri & Tirunelveli Region
	Tirunelveli - Palayankottai Museum,
	Nellaiappar Temple,
	Nanguneri Vanamamalai Perumal Temple
27 Jan 2015	Srivaikuntam Vaikuntanathaswami temple Navatirupati (108 Divya Desam)	Toothukudi Region
	Alwartirunagari Temple Navatirupati (108 Divya Desam)
	Tirukolur. Temples
	Krishnapuram Temple

Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure

Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure

Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure

The participants were provided with best available information to ensure a successful journey. The Pandyan yatra 2015 was slightly modified from the itinerary shown in Table 2 in terms of timing of visit and few cancellations and additions of places.

The participants organized number of weekend preparatory site seminar meetings on Sundays during 16th November 2014 - 18th January 2015 and invited few persons, who are familiar with these sites, to deliver the series of pre-visit lectures and power-point presentations. The participants also research out  on one or two places of interest and shared information through presentations. 

Arkay Center is conveniently located in Mylapore, and Mr Ramakrishnan has been very kindly hosting preparatory site seminar meeting there. V Chandrasekhar, has very kindly offered his house at "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41 and his residence has often been the venue for most site seminar meetings.. 

Table 3: The preparatory lectures for the Sixth Site Seminar:

Date	Talk on
16.11.2014	History of the Pandyas -Sangam, Early and Imperial by Ramakrishnan at  Arkay Center, Mylapore
30.11.2014	Iraiyanar Agapporul - a book on Tamil grammar, which changed the nature and subjects of Tamil Literature by Badri Seshadri  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	MaduraiKanchi - a Sangam era epic that describes the city in that period by Badri Seshadri  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
14.12.2014	Madurai Sultanate The fall of the Pandyas & Muslim rule in Madurai by Ravishankar Thiagarajan  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	Singing along the Tambraparni - Verses from the Thevaram and Prabhandam by Pradeep Chakravarthi Navneet Krishnan has accompany Pradeep by singing some of these compositions.  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
21.12.2014	Nanguneri Temple and Vanamamalai Mutt by Deivanayagam   "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	Pandyan Cave Temples & Monoliths by Vijayakumar.S (Poetry in Stone)    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
11.1.2015	Pandya temples by K.S Sankaranarayanan    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
	Jina Images of Kazhugumalai as seen by Lisa by Ravishankar Thiagarajan    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
18.1.2015	Nellaiyappar and Kanthimathi Amman Temple by Siva Thiyagarajan and Kishore   "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41

 
The following documents were shared 'Athyanthakama' Yahoo Group:

1. பாண்டிய நாட்டில் பயணமும் படிப்பும் Kanaka Ajithadoss (Yahoo Group 20.11.2014)
2. Jaina Images of Kazhugumalai (PDF) shared 

The following documents published elsewhere were included in the Guide 'Pandyan Yantra':

1. A new Pandya Record and the Dates of Nayanmars and Azhvars  by Nagaswami R
2. A Brahmadeya Gift by Pandya Arikeari  by Nagaswami R
3. Kalugumalai: Jain Images by Dr. Lisa N. Owen
4. Malaiyadikurichi Inscriptions Tell Tales  by Pradeepchakravrthi
5. Nellaiyappar Temple: Rare kritis by Pradeepchakravrthi
6. Dakshinamurti on vimanas of Vishnu temples by RKK Rajarajan
7. நின்றிருந்துகிடந்த நெடியோன் ஜெயமோகன் November 24,2010 (http://www.jeyamohan.in/9346)
8. ஸ்ரீவைகுண்டம் ஆழ்வார்திருநகரி கிருஷ்ணாபுரம் ஜெயமோகன்

Pandyan Yatra 2015 (Guide Book) THT

This is a travelogue of Pandyan Yatra 2015 covering around 20 heritage monuments in 5 days. Traveling through 'Tirunelveli Seemai' is a fulfilling experience if you are a lover of culture, heritage and history. 'Tirunelveli Seemai' is the heritage land of the south and the cradle of ancient Thamirabharani river line civilization. The Thamirabharani river valley on either side of the river is fertile and there are large acres of lush green paddy fields, coconut groves and banana plantations. The lofty temple towers and the tall and imposing temple walls in the backdrop of majestic and picturesque Western ghats invited us  It gives me inspiration and satisfaction to bring you a travelogue of Pandyan Yatra 2015.


I would like to profusely thank Prof.S.Swaminathan, S/shri Badri Seshadri, R.Gopu, Ashok Krishnaswami, Siva Thiagarajan, Kishore Mahadevan, guest speakers, Kizhakku Pathippagam staff, Temple staff and Priests, ASI staff, participants and all others for contributing to the success of Pandyan Yatra 2015.

Thiruvellarai Swastik Well by Dantivarma Pallava and Pundarikakasha Perumal Temple

நன்றி: புகைப்படம் பராந்தக சோழன் முகநூல்

நன்றி: புகைப்படம் பராந்தக சோழன் முகநூல்

நன்றி: புகைப்படம் தி இந்து

Thiruvellarai (திருவெள்ளரை) Pundarikaksha Perumal (புண்டரிகாட்ஷப் பெருமாள்) Temple, Manachanallur Taluk, Tiruchirapalli district is the most ancient Vaishnavite shrine located about 20 km. from Tiruchirapalli and lying on the Tiruchirapalli - Thuraiyur Road.  It is the fourth among the 108 Divya Desams (திவ்ய தேசம்) (Azhwars (ஆழ்வார்கள்) or holy Vaishnavite saints, who invoked Lord Vishnu with the hymn of Nalayira Divya Prabandham (நாலாயிர திவ்யப் பிரபந்தம்) or 4000 holy hymns compositions in 108 shrines. Thiruvellarai Divya Desam or Vaishnavite shrine was invoked by Periyazhwar (பெரியாழ்வார்) and Thirumangai Azhwar (திருமங்கை ஆழ்வார்). The shrine is believed to be much older than Sri Rengam, the First Divya Desam. The temple is dedicated to Lord Pundarikaksha Perumal aka. Lord Senthamaraikkannan (செந்தாமரைக்கண்ணன்) (Lotus eyed Lord), a form of Vishnu who appears in a standing  posture in a separate sanctum. The sanctum of the prime deity can be worshiped through two gateways i.e, Dakshinayanam Gate (தட்ஷணாயன வாயில்) (open during Dakshinayana period) and Uttharayana Gate (உத்தராயண வாயில்) (open during Uttharayana period). His consort Goddess Pankajavalli (Pankayavalli) (பங்கஜவல்லி என்ற பங்கயவல்லி), a form of Goddess Lakshmi graces her devotees in a separate sanctum.  There is a huge and incomplete Rajagopuram (prime tower) with the flight of steps. There is an inner tower after Rajagopuram. The built-up temple is enclosed and fortified by huge walls. There are stone built rooms at the outer corridor and any sound produced around here will be echoed.

The temple was built on a whitish rocky hillock which is over 50 feet height from ground level. (White rock = venparai or Vellarai. வெண்பாறை = வெள்ளரை). It is believed that this temple was raised by the Pallava king during later part of 8th century A.D. At a later date medieval Cholas, later Pandyas, Vijayanagara kingdom and Nayakas of Madurai have greater contribution for the expansion of the temple structures. Besides the masonite structures of Thiruvellarai Pundarikaksha Perumal temple, there are two rock-cut cave temples excavated on a granite mound. The rock-cut caves bear the Pallava sculptural depictions of Lord Narasimha and Lord Varaha as well as three inscriptions: two of them assignable to Pallava king Nandivarman II (732 - 736 A.D.) and the third one assignable to that of  Pallava king Dantivarman (795 - 846 A.D.).

Thiruvellarai Sri Vinnagaram is referred to  as "periya Sri Koyil" (பெரிய ஸ்ரீ கோயில்) in the 8th regnal year (978 A.D.) inscriptions of  of Mathuranthaka Uthama Chola (மதுரந்தாக உத்தம சோழன்)  Another inscription of Rajaraja I (முதலாம் இராஜராஜன்) mentions "Thiruvallarai forming part of Pachil Kurram (பாச்சில் கூற்றம்) (like the present taluk), Rajaraja valanatu (இராஜராஜ வளநாடு) (like the present district)."

This post is about the unusually deigned well located at the back of the (beyond the compound wall of the) temple premises. This swastika (ஸ்வஸ்திகா) shaped well is surrounded by hedges and bushes.   It is protected by Tamil Nadu state department of Archaeology and  renovated with the financial assistance of 13th finance commission 2013-14.  The well together appears like the symbol 'Swastika.' Each wing of the Swastika has 51 steps leading to the water and, on descending down the 20th step, one has to take a right to reach the tank below. The supporting beams made of stones criss-cross the structure.  The peculiar feature of the well is that it ensures privacy for those taking bath in the four enclosures. Hence local people call it as Mother-in-law - Daughter-in-law Tank (மாமியார் மருமகள் குளம் அல்லது கிணறு) since when taking bath in this tank both of them would not be visible to each other. This peculiar shaped well was excavated by one Kamban Araiyan (கம்பன் அரையன்) from Alampakkam during the year 805 A.D. during the reign of Pallava king Dantivarman (746 - 847 A.D.). It was excavated under the instructions of Dantivarman. The well is named after 'Marpiduku' one of the royal titles king Dantivarman and popularly called as 'Marpiduku great well.'    There are statues of Nandhi (bull vehicle) and Nagas (serpents) found around the well. According to the hoarding kept there the well underwent renovation during the 13th century A.D. by Yosala Veera Ramanathan (யோசால வீர இராமநாதன்) and this renovation was carried out by Kudanthai Vanigan Uyyaneri Kaatinaan (குடந்தை வணிகன் உய்யநெறி காட்டினான்).

An inscription found on one of the side wall of the well speaks about the excavation of the great well:

No. 40 - (A. R. No. 541 of 1905) - Tiruvellarai, (then) Lalgudi Taluk, Trichinopoly District. On the margin of a well called 'Nalumulaikkeni' (நாலுமூலைக்கேணி) - This inscription records the construction of a well called Marppidugu-Perunkinaru (மார்பிடுகு பெருங்கிணறு) at Tennur (தென்னூர்) in Tiruvellarai by Kamban Araiyan (கம்பன் அரையன்), the younger brother of Visayanallulan (விசெயநல்லூழன்) of Alambakkam (ஆலம்பாக்கம்), in the 4th year of Dantivarman.  Published in Epigraphia Indica, Vol. XI, p. 157.  (Grantha and Tamil characters)

ஸ்வஸ்தி ஸ்ரீ பாரத்வாஜ கோத்திரத்தின் வழித்தோன்றிய

பல்லவ திலத குலோத்பவன் தந்திவர்மர்க்கு யாண்டு

நான்காவ தெடுத்துக் கொண்டு ஐந்தாவது முற்றுவித்தான்

ஆலம்பாக்க விசெய நல்லூழான் தம்பி கம்பன் அரையன்

திருவெள்ளரை தென்னூர் பெருங்கிணறு இதன் பியர்

மார்ப்பிடுகு பெருங்கிணறு

"The object of the inscription is to document the well known as Marpidugu Perungkinaru at Thiruvellarai Thennur. Kamban Araiyan (A Mutharaiyar chief), the younger brother of a certain  Viseya Nalluzhan of Alampakkam. Commencing the work from fourth year of Kulothbhavan Dantivarman of Pallavatilata (tilaka) family  which is said have sprung from the Bharathvaja Gothram and completed in his 5th year at Thiruvellarai Thennur and named it as 'Marpiduku Perungkinaru.'   

The section 2 of the inscription is the Tamil verse (தமிழ் செய்யுள்) and is composed in Asiriyappaa metre (ஆசிரியப்பா செய்யுள்). Here Kampan Araiyan speaks about the immortal life of humanbeing (மனித வாழ்க்கையில் நிலையாமை):

ஸ்ரீ கண்டார் காணா உலகத்திற் காதல் செய்து நில்லாதேய்
பண்டேய் பரமன் படைத்த நாள் பார்த்து நின்று நைய்யாதேய்
தண்டால் மூப்பு வந்து உன்னைத் தளரச் செய்து நில்லாமுன்
உண்டேல் உண்டுமிக்கது உலகமறிய வைம்மினேய் 

This poem in Tamil declares that no object in this world is permanent. I saw a person yesterday. Today I couldn't see him because he died. Human life is immortal and impermanent. In such a world of impermanence don't fix your love (likes) on the materialistic objects. Lord of Creation has made you to give birth on a specific day. As the human life is immortal, don't forecast future from your day of birth and confuse yourself emotionally. Before age could wither your body and to shrink,  consume (spend your wealth) reasonably well for your maintenance purposes and leave the remainder of your wealth for charity.   

Reference:

1. கோயில் வளாகத்தில் மார்பிடுகு பெருங்கிணறு. குடவாயில் பாலசுப்ரமணியன். தினகரன் 25.1.2014
2. திரு.எஸ்.இராமச்சந்திரன், கல்வெட்டறிஞர், ரீச் ஃபவுண்டேஷன் கல்வெட்டியல் வகுப்பு. 12.12.2014

YouTube Video by Subashini Tremmel

Raja Raja Chola I (முதலாம் இராசராச சோழன்) Fact File

Statue of Raja Raja Chola I (முதலாம் இராசராச சோழன்)

• Raja Raja Chola I (முதலாம் இராசராச சோழன்) 
• Birth Name: Arunmozhivarman
• Dynasty: Chola Dynasty
• Capital: Thanjavur 
• Reign     985–1014 CE
• Ethnic Tamil
• Titles - 42

  1. Rajakandiyan இராசகண்டியன்
  2. Rajasarvagyan இராசசர்வக்ஞன்
  3. Rajarajan இராசராசன்
  4. Rajakesarivarman இராசகேசரிவர்மன்
  5. Rajachrayan இராசாச்ரயன்
  6. Rajamarthandan இராசமார்த்தாண்டன்
  7. Rajendrasimhan இராசேந்திரசிம்மன்
  8. Rajavinodhan இராசவிநோதன்
  9. Ranamukhabhiman இரணமுகபீமன்
10. Ravikulamanickan இரவிகுலமாணிக்கன்
11. Ravivamsasikamani இரவிவம்சசிகாமணி
12. Abhayakulasekaran அபயகுலசேகரன்
13. Arulmozhi அருள்மோழி
14. Arithurkkalangan அரிதுர்க்கலங்கன்
15. Periyaperumal பெரியபெருமாள்
16. Azhakiya Cholan அழகியசோழன்
17. Mumudi Cholan மும்முடிச்சோழன்
18. Panditha Cholan பண்டிதசோழன்
19. Nikali Cholan நிகரிலிசோழன்
20. Thirumuraikanda Cholan திருமுறைகண்டசோழன்
21. Jeyangonda Cholan செயங்கொண்டசோழன்
22. Uthama Cholan உத்தமசோழன்
23. Murthavikramaparanan மூர்த்தவிக்கரமாபரணன்
24. Uthangathungan உத்துங்கதுங்கன்
25. Uyyakondan உய்யக்கொண்டான்
26. Ulagalanthan உலகளந்தான்
27. Thelingakulakalan தெலிங்ககுலகாலன்
28. Keralanthakan கேரளாந்தகன்
29. Murthavikkaramaparanan மூர்த்தவிக்கரமாபரணன்
30. Cholendhrasimhan சோழேந்திரசிம்மன்
31. Cholanarayanan சோழநாராயணன்
32. Cholakulasundharan சோழகுலசுந்தரன்
33. Cholamarthandan சோழமார்த்தாண்டன்
34. Pandykulasani பாண்டியகுலாசனி
35. Sivapathasekaran சிவபாதசேகரன்
36. Singalanthakan சிங்களாந்தகன்
37. Chatrubhujangan சத்துருபுஜங்கன்
38. Chandaparakraman சண்டபராக்ரமன்
39. Jananathan ஜனநாதன்
40. Shatriyasikamani சத்திரியசிகாமணி
41. Keerthiparakraman கீர்த்திபராக்கிரமன்
42. Thailakulakalan தைலகுலகாலன்
 

• Date of Birth Tamil month Aipasi (15th October - 15th November) 943 CE; Tamil month Chithirai (15th April to 15th May) as per Thirupukalur and Ennayiram inscriptions (Ref:  Kallezhuthil kalasuvadukal கல்லெழுத்தில் காலச்சுவடுகள் by S Swiminathan pages 38 - 39)
• Natal star Shatabhisha, also known as Chathayam or Sadayam (Devanagari: शतभिषा)(Tamil: சதயம்), or Shatabhishak or Shatataraka is the 24th nakshatra in Hindu astronomy. (Ref: page 102 of Cholar varalaru (சோழர் வரலாறு ) by C Govindarasanar and C K Deivanayakam)
• Predecessor  Uttama Chola
• Successor   Rajendra Chola I
• Southern Wars    The southern kingdoms of Cheras, the Sinhalas and Pandyas joined hands to fight the Cholas.
• Kandalur Salai    994 CE : successfully campaigned in Kandalur a port town in Kerala.
• Malai Nadu    Defeated the Cheras in a battle, captured Udagai.
• Sri Lanka Conquest   993 CE : Invaded Sri Lanka 
• Northern Wars    Territory expansion in the north & northwest Captured Nolambapadi, Gangapadi and Tadigaipadi.
• Ganga Wars    973 CE: Invaded Ganga country in the absence of Rashtrakutas
• War against Vengi    Waged a war against Vengi, a ruler named Bheema was killed
• Kalinga conquest    Defeated the Andhra king Bhima and invaded the kingdom of Kalinga.
• Naval Conquests    Known for the naval conquest of the 'old islands' (most likely the present-day Maldives), which were 12,000 in number.
• Queens - 15

1. Ulaka Mahadevi உலக மகாதேவி - (Thanthisakthi Vitangi தந்திசக்தி விடங்கி) Queen பட்டத்தரசி
2. Chola Mahadevi சோழ மகாதேவி
3. Abimanavalli Mahadevi அபிமானவல்லி மகாதேவி
4. Thirailokiya Mahadevi திரைலோக்கிய மகாதேவி
5. Panjavan Mahadevi பஞ்சவன்மகாதேவி
6. Prithivi Mahadevi பிருத்திவிமகாதேவி
7. Lada Mahadevi இலாடமகாதேவி
8. Meenavan Mahadevi மீனவன் மகாதேவி - Pandya Princess பாண்டிய நாட்டு இளவரசி
9. Vanavan Mahadevi வானவன் மகாதேவி  (Thiribhuvana Madhevi திருபுவன மாதேவி. Vanadhi வானதி) - Mother of Rajendra Cholan I இராசேந்திர சோழனின் தாய்
10. Villavan Mahadevi வில்லவன் மகாதேவி- Chera Princess சேர நாட்டு இளவரசி
11. Veeranarayani வீரநாராயனி.
12. Nakkanthillai azhakiyar நக்கந்தில்லை அழகியார்
13. Kadan Thongiyar காடன் தொங்கியார்
14. Ilangon Pichiyar இளங்கோன் பிச்சியார்
15. Thailamadhevi தைலாமாதேவி
 

• Parents Parantaka Chola II (957–970 CE) (இரண்டாம் பராந்தக சோழன்) also known by the name Madhurantakan, Sundara Cholan (சுந்தர சோழன்) (Father) and Queen Vanavanmahadevi (Mother)
• Elder Brother  Aditya Karikalan (also referred to as Aditya II) Aditya’s inscriptions use the epithet "Vira Pandyan Thalai Konda Adithha Karikalan" - "...took the head of Vira Pandya".
• Elder Sister Kundavai I
• Sons Rajendra Cholan I (இராசேந்திர சோழன்,) Erivali Gangaikonda Chola (எறிவலி கங்கைகொ ண்ட சோழன் )
• Daughters Madhevadikal (), Arulmozhi Chandramalliyar alias Gangamadheviyar, Kundavai II
• Ascending the throne on the Day 22nd of Tamil month Aadi (15th July to 15 August) year 985 CE (18 - 07 - 985) at the age of 42 years
• Thanjavur Peruvudaiyar Temple was built - Regnal year 25th Day 275 Saturday
• Thanjavur Peruvudaiyar Temple consecrated - 22nd April 1010 CE (புனர்பூசம் Punarpoosam or Punarvasu -  7th Star)
• Died on 17th January 1014 (Regnal year 29, Tamil month Markazhi (15th November to 15 December) Purva paksha (the period of the brightening moon (waxing moon), Chaturdashi Tithi (moon day)
• Lived 71 years
• Ruled the Chola kingdom 28 years 8 months 29 days
• Religious Beliefs Hinduism, Saivism

In Tamil Nadu the temples have over 50,000 inscriptions the economic and socio-political records. The Chola edicts frequently refer about village assemblies (sabhas or mahasabhas), an elected body (represented by elite Brahman scholars of the village) of the ancient panchayat system , which public administered the Brahmadeya (gift to Brahmans) or Devadana (gift to presiding deity of the temple) villages. For every economic unit the Cholas built a temple.  The site for building temple was gifted by village elites. The Chola king donated the agriculture land for the maintenance of the temple. Provisions such as rice, dall. ghee, salt, pepper, vegetables, betel leaves, areca nut etc, were accepted as gift from public.  The Chola temples served not only as places of worship but also as centres of public administration, judiciary and community welfare institutions and secular and cultural spaces authorized to handle public finance. They were also run as corporations. They were authorized issue land grants and empowered to invest their assets as they considered fit. They also functioned as banks and edicted (recorded) the contributions and investments from the king and public. Temples also employed huge skilled manpower - artisans, padiyam (Thevaram) reciters, musicians, dancers (devadasis) etc.  The sabhas or assemblies also provided free Vedic education, food, shelter and even medication to the upper caste boys within temple premises. 

The Chola emperors gave Royal (verbal) orders (tiruvakya-kelvi) to the village assemblies which were drafted by the private secretary and confirmed by the Olainayakam (Chief Secretary) and a Perundaram (higher officials) before its despatch by the Vidaiyadhikari (despatch clerk).

Chola Edict (சாசனம்) Structure (Epigraphy)  into THREE parts: 1. Preamble (முகப்புரை); 2. Notification (குறிப்புரை); and 3. Imprecation (முடிவுரை)

1 Preamble (முகப்புரை)

1.1 Invocation (மங்கலத்துவக்கம்) - Meykeerthi
1.2 Place of the edict (சாசனம் வெளியிடப்பட்ட இடம் ) - ராஜராஜன் தஞ்சைப் பெரியக்கோயிலுக்குத் தானம் வழங்கும் பொழுது இருமுடிச்சோழனின் உள்ளால் திருமஞ்சனச் சாலையில் இருந்த செய்தியைக் கூறுகிறது.
1.3 Name of the king (or queen) who inscribed the edict with his Titles and Traditions (சாசன வெளியீட்டாளரின் பெயர் அவரது விருதுப்பெயர்களும் மரபும்)
1.4 Date of the edict (mentions the day and the regnal year of the king)

2 Notification (குறிப்புரை) - Royal Order Issued verbally (includes the following information)

2.1 Information about the gifts (endowments)
2.2 Name of the donor
2.3 Gifts donated under the specific circumstances if any
2.4 Reason for donation or gift or endowment
2.5 Land endowments are marked with their boundaries - Also mentions the specific geographical classifications like province (Nadu நாடு), District (kurram கூற்றம்), village (கிராமம்), Visayam (விசயம்), Pukthi (புக்தி).
 

Land was measured in (Kuzhi = 11 Cents or 2 Grounds or 4799.96 sft) using Ulagalanthan kol (Chola land measuring rod instituted by Rajaraja Chola) i.e, one rod in length and one rod in width. Three kuzhi of land made one Maa (மா = approx. 33 Cents or 6 Grounds or 14399.88 sft). 20 Maa land was computed as one veli (வேலி = 660 Cents or 120 Grounds or 287997.90 sft). One munthirikai (முந்திரிகை) of land was equivalent to  1/4 Kani or 2.0625 Cents or 0.375 Ground    or 899.99 sft and one kani (காணி) of land was equivalent to 4 Muntirikai or 1.33 Kuzhi or 8.25 Cents or 1 1/2 Ground or 3599.97 sft.

Paddy or rice (or other grains too) was measured in naazhi, padi and marakkal. One naazhi grain was equivalent to approximately 900 gms. Eight naazhi grain was equivalent to half padi. Adavallan Marakkal (Chola grain measuring vessel instituted by Rajaraja Chola) was used to measure grain.
Oil and ghee were measured in azhakku (168 ml), uzhakku (336 ml) and Naazhi (1344 ml)

Gold gifts expressed in weighing units such as Kalanju. Kundrimani (Abrus precatorius) and  Manjadi (Adenanthera pavonina) are very consistent in weight. Ancient Tamils  was used both the seeds as units of weight to weigh gold using a measure called kunrimani seed (0.133 gm) and manjadi seed (approximately 0.266 gm). Twenty manjadis or  forty kundrimanis made one Kalanju (5.320 gms or approximately 1.5 sovereign). Thirty manjadis or sixty kundrimanis made one sovereign or poun weighing 7.98 gm. 

They received gifts of gold, jewellery, paddy and cattle endowments for burning lamps; land endowments to disburse paddy wages to temple staff and supply contractors. If the gifts in coins (காசுக்கொடை), the interest  amount realised was mentioned as polisai kasu (பொலிசை காசு). The money was used to procure rice, dall, ghee, pepper, salt, vegetables, betel leaf, areca nut, sandal paste etc.

3. Imprecation - ஓம்படைக்கிளவி - (முடிவுரை)

The Chola administrative officials responsible for the implementation of the Royal orders (தர்மத்திற்குப் பொறுப்பேற்ற அலுவலர்களின் பெயர்(கள்), நாடு, கூற்றம், கிராமம்) and its authenticity and credibility. 

Edicts of Rajaraja Chola I found on the north-west wall of the Sri Vimana of Peruvudaiyar Temple, Thanjavur

1. Hail! Prosperity! This (is) the edict (sasana) of Rajaraja (alias) Rajakesarivarman, which is cherished by the multitude of the diadems of (i.e., which is obeyed by) the crowd of all princes.

2. On the twentieth day of the twenty-sixth year (of the reign) of Ko-Rajakesarivarman, alias Sri-Rajarajadeva, who – while (his) heart rejoiced, that, like the goddess of fortune, the goddess of the great earth had become his wife, — in his life of growing strength, during which, having been pleased to cut the vessal (kalam) (in) the hall (at) Kandalur, he conquered by his army, which was victorious in great battles, Vengai-nadu, Ganga-padi, Tadigai-padi, Nulamba-padi, Kudamalai-nadu, Kollam, Kalingam, Ira-mandalam, (the conquest of which) gave fame (i.e., made (him) famous) (in) the eight directions, and the seven and a half lakshas of Iratta-padi, — deprived the Seriyas (i.e., the Pandyas) of their splendor, while (he) was resplendent (to such a degree) that (he) was worthy to be worshipped everywhere; — having been pleased to make gifts (in) the royal bathing-hall (tiru-manjana-salai) to the east (of the hall) of Irumadi-Soran within the Tanjavur palace (koyil), the lord (udaiyar) Sri-Rajarajadeva vouchsafed to say: — “Let the gifts made by us, those made by (our) elder sister, those made by our wives, and those made by other donors to the lord (udaiyar) of the sacred stone-temple (tirukkarrali), (called) Sri Rajarajesvara, — which we caused to be built (at) Tanjavur, (a city) in Tanjavur –kurram, (a subdivision) of Pandyakulasani-valanadu, — be engraved on stone on the sacred shrine (sri-viman)!”.

 

"ஸ்வஸ்திஸ்ரீ் திருமகள் போல பெருநிலச் செல்வியுந் தனக்கேயுரிமை பூண்டமை மனக்கொளக் காந்தளூர்ச் சாலைக் களமறூத்தருளி வேங்கை நாடும் கங்கைபாடியும் நுளம்பபாடியும் தடிகை பாடியும் குடமலை நாடும் கொல்லமும் கலிங்கமும் எண்டிசை புகழ்தர ஈழ மண்டலமும் இரட்டபாடி ஏழரை இலக்கமும் (முந்நீர்ப் பழந்தீவு பன்னீ ராயிரமுந்) திண்டிறல் வென்றி தண்டால் கொண்டதன் பொழில் வளர் ஊழியுள் எல்லா யாண்டிலும் தொழுதகை விளங்கும் யாண்டே செழிஞரை தேசுகொள் ஸ்ரீ்கோவிராஜராஜகேசரி பந்மரான ஸ்ரீராஜராஜ தேவர்."

நாம் கொடுத்தனவும், நம் அக்கன் கொடுத்தனவும், நம் பெண்டுகள் கொடுத்தனவும்,கொடுப்பார் கொடுத்தனவும்..இந்த கல்லிலே வெட்டியருளுக என்று திருவாய்மொழிஞ்சருளி

    1.ஸ்வஸ்திஸ்ரீ (Swasti Sri)
    2.திருமகள் போலப் பெருநிலச் செல்வியும் (like the goddess of fortune, )
    3.தனக்கே யுரிமை பூண்டமை மனக்கொளக் (the goddess of the great earth had become his wife  — in his life of growing strength)
    4.காந்தளூர்ச் சாலைக் கலமறுத் தருளி (having been pleased to cut the vessal (kalam) (in) the port (at) Kandalur (= Kandalur is the port town in Chera country)
    5.வேங்கை நாடுங் கங்க பாடியுந் (he conquered by his army, which was victorious in great battles, Vengai-nadu, Ganga-padi,) (Vengai Nadu = East Chalukya country located between Krishna and Godavari rivers; Ganga-padi = Southern part of Mysore province)
    6.தடிகை பாடியும் நுளம்ப பாடியும் (Nulamba - Padi = Chithaldurga and Bellary districts of Mysore state); (thadigai - padi = Located between Ganga-padi and Nulamba padi);
    7.குடமலை நாடுங் கொல்லமுங் கலிங்கமும் (Kudamalai Nadu = Present Kudagu region in Karnataka); (Kollan (Quilon) in Kerala); (Kalingam = Present Odisha state located between Godavari and Mahanadhi rivers)
    8.முரட்டொழிற் சிங்கள ரீழமண் டலமும் (எண்டிசை புகழ்தர ஈழ மண்டலமும் ) ( (the conquest made him famous) in the eight directions) (Singala = Sinhalese region; Eezha mandalam = Present Sri Lanka)
    9.இரட்ட பாடி யேழரை யிலக்கமும் ( the seven and a half lakshs of Iratta-padi) (Iratta-Padi = Southern regions of Maharashtra)
    10.முந்நீர்ப் பழந்தீவு பன்னீ ராயிரமுந் (Munneer Pazhantheevu = Maldives and islands of Arabian ocean)
    11.திண்டிறல் வென்றித் தண்டாற் கொண்டதன் (vendri = Conquered; Thandu = Army)
    12.னெழில்வள ரூழியு ளெல்லா யாண்டுந் (பொழில் வளர் ஊழியுள் எல்லா யாண்டிலும்)
    13.தொழுதக விளங்கும் யாண்டே செழியரைத் (He was resplendent to such a degree that he was worthy to be worshipped everywhere; ) (deprived the Sezhiyars (i.e., the Pandyas)  of their splendor)
    14.தேசுகொள் கோராச கேசரி வர்மரான (Ko Rajakesarivarman) (Thesu = Thejas / splendor)
    15.உடையார் ஸ்ரீராச தேவர்க்கு யாண்டு (the lord (udaiyar) Sri-Rajarajadeva )

Reference

1. முதல் இராசராச சோழன் மெய்க்கீர்த்தி (Wikipedia)
2. முதலாம் இராஜராஜ சோழன்  Blogspot  

Nisumba soodhini Temple, Thanjavur: War Deity of Imperial Chola

Ugra Kali Amman Temple (உக்ரகாளி அம்மன் கோவில்), Kuyavar street in Keezha Vaasal

Ugra kaliyamman Sanctum houses 19th Century (Maratta) image of Nisumba Soodhani

Vada Bhadra Kali Amman Temple (வடபத்ரகாளி அம்மன் கோவில்), Poomal Rauther Koil street in Keezha Vaasal, Thanjavur (Photo Courtesy: Sasi Dharan, Facebook)

Goddess Nisumba soodhani at Vada Bhadra Kali Temple (Photo Courtesy: © Daily Thanthi )

Nisumba Soodhani Idol Now Damaged (Photo Courtesy: MyThanjavur)

Niuumba soodhani (Photo Courtesy: MyThanjavur)

Many travelers may come to Thanjavur (தஞ்சாவூர்) solely to visit the Big Temple (பெருவுடையார் கோயில்) (‘ராஜராஜுச்சுரம்’) (Rajarajeswaram temple), an outstanding example of Chola (சோழர்) architecture and one of the UNESCO World Heritage Monuments. Over a total of 30,000 foreign tourists and 4.10 lakh domestic tourists passing through Thanjavur, making it the fastest growing tourist spot in Tamil Nadu, India. Thanjavur, an important pilgrim centre and a major tourist destination of Tamil Nadu, also includes many other interesting heritage temples.

Cult of Kali in Thanjavur

Thanjavur is also popular for the cult of 'Kali' (காளி) (the mother goddess - specific Sakthi cult). In Thanjavur there are eight Kali temples as guardian deities with different names:

1. Nandhi Makali; 2. Selliamman; 3. Ugra Kali (Nisumba soodhanai); 4. Kodiamman (Karanthai); 5. Vanchiamman; 6. Samavarthiniyamman; 7. Vada Bhadra Kali (Nisumba soodhani); and Kunthalamman. Kali is an incarnation of Parvati 'Kali' means black or kala (Hindi). Kali is a warrior goddess, who protects humanity and the gods from horrible demons, but she is also a deity of feminine energy, creativity, fertility, guardian, protector, ruler of eternal time, goddess of death and doomsday. 

Hindu iconography depicts Kali all the more gruesome and she appears in absolute rage, with lolling tongue and protruding fangs  as well as with her ornaments of necklace of snakes, skulls and heads of her sons and a belt from, which hangs demon's hands. The deity often appear with the number of arms being four (Kali, Ruthra Kali), eight (Chamundi), ten (Bhadra Kali), twelve, fourteen (Mahakali), eighteen (Bhadra Kali)  or even one hundred (Bhadra Kali) and each of hand holding weapon or other objects including a sword, dagger, trident dripping with blood, cup, drum, chakra, lotus bud, whip, noose, bell, and shield. She is the destroyer of demons such as Mahisasura, Chanda, Munda, Shumbha, Nishumbha as well as Madhu and Kaitabha.

History

It is also interesting to witness the cult of Nisumba soodhini (நிசும்பசூதினி), a form of Kali in mythology and the war deity of Imperial Cholas associated with war, combat or bloodshed. The cult of Korravai was present during Sangam period and the Tamil kings of Sangam period worshiped Korravai (கொற்றவை),  a local presiding deity of war and victory in the Tamil region. Perumpidugu Mutharaiyar II (c. 705 - 745 A.D.) (பெரும்பிடுகு முத்தரையன் சுவரன் மாறன்  II) ruled over Cauvery Delta Region  - Mutharaiyar Nadu (முத்தரையர் நாடு) before the Cholas. The cult of Pidari (பிடாரி) (a form of Kali and the protecting deity as well as war deity) probably evolved in the sixth and seventh centuries AD and is generally restricted to southern India. The feudatory king was a formidable Warrior and was engaged in 12 battles with Pandya and Chera and was victorious in all the battles i.e., Kodumbaalur, Manalur, Thingalur, Kaandhalur, Azhindhiur, Kaarai, Maangur, Annavoil, Semponmari, Thanjaisembulanattu Venkodal, Pugazhi and Kannanur. He built the temple devoted to Pidari at Niamam (நியமம் பிடாரி அம்மன் கோயில்). The four pillars erected by the king bears the inscriptions (27 stanzas) reciting the wars, victories and other accomplishments. Inscriptions found at mandapam of Sundareswarar temple, Senthalai states:

செந்தலை சுந்தரேஸ்வரர் கோயில் முன் மண்டபத்தில் காணப்பெறும் .செந்தலை கல்வெட்டுகளில் "சுவரன் மாறன்னானவன் எடுபித்த பிடாரிகோயில் அவநெரிந்த ஊர்களும் அவன் பேர்களும் அவனை பாடினர் பேர்களும் இத்தூண்கள் மேலுழுதின இவை "என அக்கல்வெட்டு கூற்கின்றது.

Goddess Pidari was also worshiped by Pandya king Maranchadaiyan  Paranthaka Veeranarayanan alias  Nedum Chadayan (பாண்டியன் மாறன் சடையன் பராந்தக வீரநாராயணன் என்ற நெடுஞ்சடையன் ( 866 - 911 A.D.), Nandivarman II (Pallavamalla) (இரண்டாம் நந்திவர்மன் (பல்லவமல்லன்) (720–796 CE) and Aditya Chola I (பரகேசரி முதலாம் ஆதித்த சோழன் (கி.பி 871 - 907 A.D.).

In the same tradition Vijayalaya Chola (848-891 A.D.) aka. Parakesarivarman (விசயாலய சோழன் என்ற பரகேசரிவர்மன்) built the temple for goddess Nisumba soodhani to commemorate his victory. The Chola king was once a feudatory of the Pallavas.  This Thirupurampiyam (திருப்புறம்பயம் போர்) (Near Kumbakonam) war hero captured Thanjavur in 848 A.D. from Elango Mutharayar (final ruler of Mutharaiyar dynasty) and established as a semi autonomous state.  He became the real founder of the Chola dynasty of Thanjavur and his dynasty rose to its prominence during the middle of the 9th century A.D. The Imperial Cholas believed that goddess Nisumba soodhini as the personification of valour and would bless them with victory in the battle. This faith made them to pray for goddess 'Nisumba soodhini' before leaving for the battle field. This information was recorded in Thiruvalangadu copper-plate inscriptions:

“தஞ்சாபுரீம் சௌத சுதாங்காராகாம
ஐக்ராஹ ரந்தும் ரவி வம்ச தீப:
தத:பிரதிஷ்டாப்ய நிசும்ப சூதனீம்
சுராசுரை:அர்ச்சித பாத பங்கஜாம்
சது : சமுத்ராம்பர மேகலாம் புவம்
ரஹாஜ தேவோ தத்பராசதந”

Meaning: The idol of Nisumba soodhani, who conquered and annihilated the demons Shumba and Nishumba, was consecrated in Thanjavur. With the grace of the worshipful feet of Nisumba soodhani, the king ruled the earth surrounded by ocean with the ease, as if wearing like a garland.  

The original temple built by Vijayalaya Chola is not existing at present. Now there are two temples devoted goddess  Nisumba Soodhani located in the heritage town Thanjavur.

Present Temples

Vada Bhadra Kali Amman Temple (வடபத்ரகாளி அம்மன் கோவில்), Poomal Rauther Koil street in Keezha Vaasal.

The 1160 years old deity (!) comes under Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments (HR&CE) administration and well maintained by Thanjavur Palace Devasthanam.

The temple was built by Vijayalaya Chola (848-891) aka. Parakesarivarman, once a feudatory of the Pallavas. The temple has the sanctum sanctorum, ardhamandapa and the mahamandapa (temporary tin sheet shed). The deity of goddess Nisumba soodhini

The temple is 2 km away from Old Bus stand of Thanjavur and there are number city buses and auto rickshaws available from here.

Temple Timings: 07.00 am - 11.00 pm and 05.00 pm - 08.00 pm. Temple popularly known among the local people as "Ragukaala Kali Temple".

Ugra Kali Amman Temple (உக்ரகாளி அம்மன் கோவில்), Kuyavar street in Keezha Vaasal.

The 1160 years old deity (!) comes under Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments (HR&CE) administration and well maintained by Thanjavur Palace Devasthanam.

The temple was built by Vijayalaya Chola (848-891) aka. Parakesarivarman, once a feudatory of the Pallavas. The temple has two sanctum sanctorums, ardhamandapa and the common spacious mahamandapa. In the main sanctum the 19th century idol of goddess Nisumba soodhini appears seated. The priest told that this deity belongs to Maratta period. All poojas are performed to this deity in the main sanctum. The other sanctum sanctorum on the left side of the main sanctum lies another sanctum housing the 9th century CE idol of Nisumba soodhini.

The iconography of seated Nisumba soodhani depicts annihilation of the  Nisumba with her right and left legs engaged pressing against demon. One of her right hand holds the Trident (Trishul) and pointing towards Nisumba.  The goddess also appears seated on the bodies of four demons (Chanda , Munda, Raktha Bheeja, and Shumba) with head slightly tilted.

The temple is 2 km away from Old Bus stand of Thanjavur and there are number city buses and auto rickshaws available from here.

Temple Timings: 06.00 am - 12.00 pm and 05.00 pm - 08.00 pm. Temple popularly known among the local people as "Ukkira Kali Temple".

Legend

According to Devi Mahathmyam (Chandi), Raktha Bheeja, the commander of Shumbha and Nishumba opposed to goddess Parvathi. Goddess Parvathi created 'Kaushiki.'  Kaushiki was spotted by Chanda and Munda, Shumbha Nishumba's two assistants and reported about Kaushiki. Shumba and Nishumba sent proposals of marrying Kaushiki through a messenger. Kaushiki invited both for a fight and the winner could marry her.  There was fierce fighting between the demons Chanda and Munda and the goddess Kaushiki and killed them. Hence the name (Chamundi (Chanda+Munda). On seeing the death of Chanda and Munda the demons attacked the goddesses Kaushiki. At that moment, from the bodies of the various devas, women forces began emerging and took the form of Kali.  Among the asuras there was one commander known as Raktha Bheeja. Every drop of blood oozing from the body of Raktha Bheeja turns another demonic form of Raktha Bheeja. Kali was instructed to drink all the blood that oozes from the body of Raktha Bjeeja. On hearing death of Raktha Beeja, Nishumba assaulted Kaushiki and the goddess retaliated with a weapon known as 'Khura' and made him unconscious. Shumba came to the rescue of Nishumba and fell unconscious. At the end of the fight both Shumba and Nishumba were annihilated and the goddess Kaushiki became victorious.

Reference

1. Seminar on the eve of the 1337th Birthday Celebrations of Perarasar Perumbidugu Mutharaiyar II: The King Who ruled Mutharaiyar Nadu with Tanjore as Capital. Held at Valasaravakkam, Chennai on 27th May 2012 from 10 am to 6 pm. http://www.mutharaiyar.in/
2. Thiruvalangadu copper plates discovered in 1905 C.E. is one of the largest so far recovered and contains 31 copper sheets. The copper plates, issued by emperor Rajendra Chola (1012-1044 A.D., regnal years), contain text written in Sanskrit and Tamil.
3. Vada Bhadra Kali Amman Temple at Tanjore. July 27, 2013 http://indiancolumbus.blogspot.com/2013/07/NisumbaSoodhani.html
4. அசுரனை அழித்த அன்னை Dina Thanthi http://202.191.144.181/2014-03-10-The-monster-Deleted-Mother-Spiritual-News
5. சசிதரன் (Sasi Dharan) https://en-gb.facebook.com/SasidharanGS/posts/581917588538232
6. சோழர்களின் குல தெய்வம் - நிசும்பசூதனி https://www.facebook.com/arivarsangam/posts/604887932890161
7. நிசும்பசூதினி – சோழர்களின் குல தெய்வம் தஞ்சையின் காவல் தெய்வம் – Nisumbasoothini By lokesh.  April 22nd, 2014 http://www.mythanjavur.com/2014/04/nisumbasoothini/