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Arch and Stupi at The Road Junction: Tirupati - Sri Kalahasti - Puttur Roads |
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Information Plaque below Stupi |
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Three tier Rajagopuram. The compound wall enclose large rectangular sized land. |
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Rajagopuram, Bali Peetam, Nandhi Mantapam, and the Main Sanctum (Adityesvara) aligned in the same axis. |
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View of shrine in 2010 Source: ஆதித்த சோழனைத் தேடி....Bodhi.
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Vimanam: Superstructure Damaged: Source: ஆதித்த சோழனைத் தேடி....Bodhi. Date: Thursday, October 7, 2010 |
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Present Date: 08 06 2014 View of Aditya Chola I Sepulchre (Under Renovation) and Kamakshidevi Shrine |
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Shiva Lingam at the Sepulchre Sanctum: Sanctum and Ardha Mantapam Viewed |
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Vimana base comprise: upana, jagati, tripatta-kumuda, kantha and kampa molding. Tripatta Kumuda bears inscription. | |
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Central niche of the Southern wall housing Dakshinamurthy. Source: ஆதித்த சோழனைத் தேடி....Bodhi.
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Present View: Central Niche Projected. Padma and Silambu Kumuda. arrangement of friezes of bas-relief lion above the base |
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Lion Bas relief and Gomukha |
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Inscriptions of 34th regnal year from Parantaka Chola I (94l) |
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Portions of Tri-patta Kumuda damaged: Portions of the inscriptions lost. See the paint mark to identify the stone block |
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Excess Cement Mortar used to join boulders. The inscriptions and other sculptural aspects lost |
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Consort shrine: Kamakshidevi |
Visiting the
Adityesvara temple (
ஆதித்தியேஸ்வர ஆலயம்) aka.
Kodandaramesvara temple (கோதண்ட
ராமேஸ்வர ஆலயம்)
is a must on any visit to Sri Kalahasti in Andhra Pradesh. Kodandaramesvara is the Pallipadai (
பள்ளிப்படை) sepulchre temple of Chola king, Aditya Chola I (c. 871 – c. 907 CE) (
முதலாம் ஆதித்த சோழன்), the son of Vijayalaya Chola. Sepulchre temples are wonderful
places to explore since there is lesser information known about them. Those of you
who are familiar with sepulchre temples will no doubt amplify more;
so please feel free to comment.
Aditya Chola I died at Tondaimanarrur in 907 CE. An inscription describe this by the epithet "
Tondaimanarrur tunjina udaiyar (தொண்டைமானரூர் துஞ்சின உடையார்)- "the king who died at Tondaimanarrur". 'The Kanyakumari inscription supplies us with the information that Aditya was also known by the surname Kodandarama. In later times, this same title was borne by his grandson, prince Rajaditya.'
'In this village there still exists a temple called Kodandaramesvara, also mentioned in its inscriptions by the name Adityesvara. In one of the Tondamanad inscriptions reference is made to a “pallippadai” (i.e., a shrine built over or near a burial ground) apparently at the same village. It is evident, therefore, that Aditya died at Tondaimanarrur near Kalahasti and that his son Parantaka I built a Siva temple over his ashes.'
Where is this village Tondaimanarrur? How to
get there and visit
Adityesvara temple aka. Kodandaramesvara? I was searching the Google on the whereabouts of this sepulchre shrine near Sri Kalahasti. One or two travelogues in Tamil informed about Tondamanad and the sepulchre shrine which is in close proximity to Sri Kalahasti, in Chitoor district, Andhra Pradesh, PIN - 517641.
I was very keen to visit this sepulchre to show his respects and pray.
Started from Tirupati on 08th June 2014 at 7.30 am by by Andhra Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation Bus (APSRTC). Distance between Tirupati to Sri Kalahasti is 37 km. Travel Time by road is 1 hr. Sri Kalahasti is a holy town and a municipality near Tirupati. When enquired about Thondamanad Shiva temple,the name of this place is unheard for many.
I am told to watch for an Arch on the right side of the road and I
continued down the road for about 34 km. The arch was visible from the road and I got down from APSRTC. No one came to help me and the villagers neither know about Adityesvara temple nor Kodandarameswara temple. Now all left to me. However they guided me to proceed straight into the village and I walked about two - three km to reach Tondamanadu and finally I landed in Thondamanadu Sri Venkateshwara Swamy temple built by Thondaman Chakravarthy brother оf Sri Padmavathi ammavaru (brother-in-law tо Sri Venkateswaraswamy). This is only temple where one can see Venkateswaraswamy will be sitting along with Sri Devi (Lakshmi) and Padmavathi Ammavaru. After darshan there, I was guided properly by the priest to go Bokkasampalem village and proceed further from the village arch into the village to get into the temple. Bokkasampalem is the historical village situated between Subbanaidukandriga and Eguva veedhi in the Sri Kalahasti Mandal.
."Bokkasam" means Treasury, Thondaman chakravarthy ruled
Thondamanadu. His treasury was placed in that village, so that the name
came to Bokkasampalem village. Finally I have walked into Kodandarameswara sepulchre temple, in Bokkasampalem village. The little dilapidated Shiva temple was standing with amazing vibe. I
have regained my confidence. One would simply love to sit around there
and relax in peace.
The temple is maintained by the
Executive Officer, Sri Kalahasteeswara Swamy Devastanam, Sri Kalahasti, Andhra Pradesh, India. This historical monument is not protected by the Department of Archaeology and hence continue to lie in utter neglect. After being neglected for decades, the historical Kodandarameswara sepulchre temple of Parantaka Chola I era in Sri Kalahasti mandal are set to undergo renovation. The
Sri Kalahasteeswara Swamy Devastanam authorities have taken up renovation works in the main shrine. The vimana with beautiful stucco work was built using brick and lime mortar and was converted later into stone. Now it is completely demolished and the reconstruction have not commenced yet. They have strengthened the foundations and relaid the granite blocks from upana
(the base) to prastara (entablature) including adhishtanam and wall structures of the shrine. However the rare inscriptions are smeared with cement mortar and the stone blocks bear painted identification markings. It appears that the renovation is taking place in a snail’s pace. Thanks to the patronage of Sri Kalahasteeswara Swamy Devastanam, devotees and heritage conscious persons, the daily rituals are being held without any interruption at the Ambal shrine.
Pallipadai (Sepulchre temple)
Pallipadai means a (Sepulchre temple) Shiva temple constructed the
mortal remains of Chola royalty.
Pallipadai is the Tamil name for sepulchral shrine.
Normally funerary temples
were erected over the places of burial of the mortal
remains of ascetics, saints and sages. However raising sepulchral
shrine
on the burial / cremation ground was followed by the Lakulisa Pashupata
sect during later Cholas period
(10th and 11th century). No sepulchre temple traceable from the Pallava,
or Chera kings, but there are sepulchres from the Cholas. Such kind of
worship protocol is not practiced today. Though there are about 16
Chola sepulchres pointed out, the scholars are in agreement with three
sepulchre temples since they have specific inscriptions in their wall
or plinth stating that they are Pallipadai koil (funeral temples). The
remaining Chola sepulchres could not be traceable or there is a
difference of opinion among the scholars about the identity of the
location mentioned in the sources. The inscriptions from these Chola
sepulchres deify the king or queen and commemorate the death. The direct
male descendant of the king or queen and legitimate successor for the
throne has only built the Chola sepulchre. The cult raising sepulchres for the dead king or queen and the cult of exalting or worshiping them was not prevalent after Chola dynasty. No Hindu Agamic text prescribes cannons for Pallipadai Temple construction.
The spacious east facing Kodandarameswara Kamakshidevi temple complex is situated in the middle of the village Bokkasampalem and surrounded by the residences.
The
temple does not show any complex plan and the temple never enlarged by
royal successors. The architectural elements ‘reflect Chola
convention.’ This
whole temple complex stands within a spacious rectangular compound defined by prakara walls. The temple faces west towards the east gopuram of the
Kodandarameswara complex, with which it is perfectly aligned. The simple and
interesting Stucco images (Sudhai) decorate the stone gopuram.
Typical Chola dwarapalakas (door guardians) are not traceable. Main entrance showing Bali Peeta, and Nandhi Mantapa. An intricately sculpted Nandhi aka the celestial Bull, the divine mount of Lord Shiva, sits facing the
main deity.
The vimana of the main shrine is small and
typically square and includes
sanctum (garbhagriha) and ardhamandapa. From upana to prastara, the
vimana is built with granite stone and the superstructure including
shikara seems to have built out of brick and re-converted to stone.
At present the sanctum is bereft of its superstructure. Shiva Lingam (5 - 6 feet tall) is present in a two meter square sanctum sanctorum. There is an Ardhamantapa before the sanctum.
The vimana walls are divided into three segments and named as pathis and these pathis usually extends towards the upper tiers of the vimana. The segmenting is marked by pilasters. The corner pathis are called Karnapathis or Karnabhadra. The centrally located and little projected pathis from the walls is known as Salapathi or Salabhadra. Salapathis have one or more niches (koshta) or Sala-koshta. The plain outer walls of this particular vimana have brahmakanta pilasters (four sided) and plain Karnapathis.
Although there is a slight projection of the sala-koshtas, there is almost no depth to house the deities. It appears that the sala-koshta deities might be later additions. Now niches are bereft of sculptures.
The vimana has the
very austere basement (adhishtana) of padabandha type with the components of upa-peeta, upana, jagadi, tri-patta kumuda
moulding. Prativari with Padma and Silambu Kumuda appear beneath the centrally projected niches. There
is the arrangement of friezes of bas-relief lion above the base.
The consort (Ambal) shrine (added at later date) is in a separate
sanctorum on the left. Also there are Navagriha figures (nine planets) on platform
appears to have been added at later date.
Inscription
During the Raja Raja Chola rule, Sri Kalahasti fell under the revenue division of
Attrur Nadu of Perumbanaipadi, which was a sub-division of Tiruvenkata
Kottam (Tiruvenkata Circle) under the larger division of Jayamkonda
Cholamandalam.
The detailed lithic records (stone inscriptions) of the 34th regnal year from Parantaka Chola I (94l) written all around the tripatta kumuda of the central shrine (vimanam) recording a gift of 105 Kazhanchu gold (one Kazhanchu is approximately equivalent to 5 grams) and
agreement to measure every year 4000 kadi of paddy
as deposit by Vageeswara Panditha Bhattarar. The inscription records further about the utilization of interest accrued from gift (deposits) i.e, agreed to measure 1000 kadi of paddy every year as interest as well as to provide curd, ghee, salt, vegetables and other requirements for observing the
seven day celebrations that concluded on Sadhayam star constellation in
the Tamil month Purattasi (September - October). Sadhayam was the natal star constellation of Aditya Chola I. The inscription also instructs further to dedicate the seven day festival to Lord Indra, the god of thunder and rain. (Indra Vizha (Festival for Lord Indra) was celebrated in the ancient Chola capital Kaveripumpattinam and it is believed that the discontinuation of the Indra Vizha celebrations led to the destruction of this Chola capital.)
During the Indra Vizha celebrations one thousand devotees of different sects and classes were to be fed. Of the one thousand devotees, 500 devotees must be from different religious sects and classes "பக்தர்களான பல சமயத்து அந்நூற்றவர்." From the remaining 500, there must be 300 brahmins and 200 devotees must be saints, ascetics (தபஸ்விகள்), including hermits of Mahavratam sect (மகாவிரதிகள்), from six different Saivite sects (Saivam, Pasupatham, Kalamukham, Mahavratam, Vamam and Bhairavam) of the Hindu religion "தபஸ்விகளில் மகாவிரதிகள் உட்பட ஆறுசமயத்து தபஸ்விகள் இருநூற்றவர்"
The charity of feeding the devotees was to be maintained by the Vageeswara Panditha Bhattarar of the Pallipadai temple and by the Sabha (assembly prominent Brahmin landholders in Chola local administration system) and devotees of Thondaimaan Peraarur village. The inscription specifies that the interest was to be measured in 1000 kadi of paddy.
The village sabha paid in measures of paddy-wages to servants for spreading banana leaves, fetching drinking water of paddy-wages; to pot maker for providing mud pots; to vendors for providing flower garland and firewood. There was a Chola sponsored vedic school and measures of paddy-wages were provided for its maintenance purposes. The Pallipadai temple was also attached with the
theatrical hall for
dramatic dance and music and the carpenter (who attended the maintenance work) was also provided with measures of paddy-wages. During the celebrations, folk dance dramas (koothus) were organized. The drama artists and singers were also given measures of paddy-wages.