Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 2.1: Virasigamani and Tirumalapuram Cave Temples


On 22 January 2015 at 08.10 pm our Pandyan Yatra commenced from Egmore Railway station  and a team of 24 participants boarded the Nellai Express bound for Tirunelveli.   Our train reached Kovilpatti by 07 15 am next morning. Initially we planned to stay at Kovilpatti itself and visit Kazhugumalai. Since there was the marriage function of a local VIP, our hotel stay was shifted to Tirunelveli. The drivers of our two cabs  were waiting at Kovilpatti station. From Kovilpatti we continued our Yatra by road to Tirunelveli and reached our hotel at Tirunelveli at 08.15 am. After bath we finished the complimentary breakfast and set out for the day’s journey by around 9:30 am.

We have planned to travel between Chennai and Tirunelveli by train in both directions and to cover about twenty places in five days by 12 passenger van. A 12 seater van is the perfect solution for groups who want to take a long road trip and the van trip was exciting, rewarding, and, at times, thoroughly testing way to travel.

Day 1: Sankarankovil Region: 

Sankarankovil is a Taluk in Tirunelveli District of Tamil Nadu State, India. Pandyans, Cholas, Cheras etc ruled Sankarankovil region. Portions of Sankarankoil Taluk have the rich, fertile black soil which is highly suitable for cotton cultivation. Cotton is being cultivated mainly in Sankarankovil taluk. Alluvial gypsum occurs in the Sankarankoil taluk. the mineral is being utilized chiefly of cement manufacture. Sankarankoil is the second largest town and taluk headquarters in Tirunelveli district, Tamil Nadu. We planned to cover Malaiyadikurichi cave, Tirumalapuram cave and Singampatti Zamin Palace. Due to paucity of time we have cancelled our visit to Singampatti Zamin palace. Instead we included the Virasigamani Rock-cut cave. Our first stop was Virasigamani Rock-cut cave.

Virasigamani Rock-cut cave

Name: Kailayanathar Cave Temple, Virasigamani (வீரசிகாமணி)
Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 11.30 and 12.30 am.
Category: Early Pandya Rock-cut cave at Veerasigamani
Architecture Style: Early Pandya style


Architecture: The entire rock-cut cave temple is protected by the perimeter wall on three sides. There is a nandhi mandapam with nandhi statue (later addition). The rock-cut cave has a facade, mukha mandapam and the sanctum.
Nandhi Mantapa
Cave covered with Perimeter wall
The external rock slope outside the cave temple bears two koshtas At the southern part of the koshta bears a Pillaiyar (Vinayaka) bas relief image and the northern part of the koshta contains Vishnu  (doubtful identity) bas relief image.

Pillaiyar in koshta
Vishnu (?) in Koshta

The Facade

The facade measures about 0.60 mts and 4.94 mts in east-west and north-south directions. The facade of the cave has been cut inwards leading to overhanging cornice. The cornice is devoid of any architectural element such as kudu or mini-shrines etc.

Facade of cave: Plinth (Padabandha Adhishtana)
Cave Facade

The facade has 90 cm high platform (padabandha adhishtana) comprised of, from below to top upana, jagati, eight-patta kumuda, kantha and pattika. Above the pattika the mother rock forms the evenly paved upper floor surface.  The facade also bears two pillars in the middle and two pilasters on both sides forming part of the side walls of the mother rock. Pillars and pilasters forming three spaces between the pillars (anganas). The  anganas in the facade are almost equal. The middle angana forms the entrance to the cave with the flight of three-step staircase in middle front of the cave with balustrades on either sides.
Facade of cave: Flight of 3 step staircase
 The pillars are in usual early rock-cut cave style, cubical top and bottom (Brahma kanta) with intermediate octagonal shaft (Vishnu kanta). The upper cubical parts of the pillars facing north and south are adorned with lotus medallions.  The Taranga potikas (fluted corbels) above the pillars and pilasters are molded with a median patta (band). Similar fluted corbel style is seen in later Pallava constructions.
Taranga Potikas (fluted corbels)

The Mukha Mandapa

The rectangular mukha mandapa measures about 5.52mts in north-south and 3.68mts in east-west directions. The front wall to the sanctum has flight of single-step staircase in middle front of the cave with balustrades on either sides. The niches on both sides are arched in the top. The roof and Vajana of the mukha mandapa are damaged.

Two niches, flanked by square pillars, are found at the middle of the each lateral wall (south and north walls) of the mukha mandapa. The niche at the south measuring about 0.79 mts in width and 1.78 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Dharma (Mahabharata).  The niche at the north measuring about 0.91 mts in width and 1.81 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Sahadeva (Mahabharata).  The projecting niche at the rear wall of the mandapa measuring about 0.71 mts in width and 1.41 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Nakula (Mahabharata).

The Sanctum

The sanctum is a rectangular cell with a monolithic Shivalingam with square Avudaiyar. The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 1.35mts in width and 1.55mts in length and to a height of 0.66mts and the plinth of the avudaiyar is formed as a padabandha adhishtana with the elements of jagati, kumuda, kantha with pada and flanked by kampa, pattika and upari kampa. The rock cut Vesara bana is 0.59mts height. The gomukha is seen on the northern side of the avudaiyar with a spout like formation.

Sanctum: Monolithic Shivalingam

The Dwarapalakas

The side niches have two dwarapalakas (door guards), one on each side of the doorway. The dwarapalaka in the left niche to the entrance is showing in 'tribhanga' posture one leg bent at the knee another leg resting on the ground and leaning imperiously on a club entwined by a cobra. His head gear is slightly strange - with karantamukuta and beneath his hair cluster fall in beautifully on his shoulders. He appears wearing all the ornaments like necklaces, kankans (forehand armlets),  keyuras (armlets), udara banda (waist belt) etc, are worn by him. The dwarapalaka on the right niche assumes distinctly different pose from the first. He has his left hand resting on his waist and the right hand with bent at the elbow and extending towards his right side. The sacred thread worn by him extends from left shoulder to the right shoulder and the iconography suggesting the date as 7th or 8th century A.D.  His head and trunk slightly bent to exhibit a magical force, and his hair is arranged like a jatamakuta with jata-bhara behind their head. 

Dwarapalaka 1
Dwarapalaka 2

Inscription: A vattezhuthu inscription dated in the 8th regnal year of Sundara Chola Pandya (ARE 1908 : 40) is found on the south facing top square section of the northern pilaster at the mandapam. The inscription speaks about the perpetual lamp donated to this temple.

Inscription

Period: There is no inscription evidence regarding the origin of this cave shrine is traceable. Nevertheless scholars consider the origin as later part of the 7th century A.D. based on the cave architecture and bas relief images.

Getting there

Veerasigamani PIN: 627862, is located in the taluk of Sankarankovil, district of Tirunelveli, in the State of Tamil Nadu. The village lies on the Sankarankovil - Puliangudi road.
Railway station: Kadaynallur Railway station
Airport: Tuticorin Airport- 85 km and Trivandrum International Airport- 100 km

Tirumalapuram Rock-cut cave 

Tirumalapuram Rock-cut cave
Name: Pasupathynathewarar Cave Temple, Tirumalapuram (திருமலாபுரம்)
Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 12.30 and 01.30 pm.
Category: There are two types of monuments (1) North facing rock-cut cave at Tirumalapuram under worship fully or partially and (2) Unfinished rock cut cave on the other side of the hillock which is not under worship.
Hillock: Varanachi Hillock
Architecture Style: Early Pandya style
The rock-cut cave has a facade, mukha mandapam and the sanctum and the cave at the north face of the hillock is excavated about 200 meters above the ground and can be reached by steep flight of steps constructed by Thrissur Circle, ASI.

The Facade

Facade: Tirumalapuram cave

The facade of the rock cut cave abuts the mukha mandapa and measures about 0.90 mts in width in  east-west direction and 5.49mts in length in north-south direction. The mother rock extends from the facade as side walls, floor and cornice. The facade has two pillars in the middle and two pilasters on both ends. The pillars are in usual early rock-cut cave style, cubical top and bottom (Brahma kanta) with intermediate octagonal shaft (Vishnu kanta). Except the southern face all other faces of the upper cubical parts of the pillars are adorned with lotus medallions and resembles with Pallava lotus medallions. The medallion at the north face of the upper square is bound by two circles and there is makara at the center and the inner circle is decorated with kodikarukku. The east face of the upper square pilasters show lotus medallions The Taranga potikas (fluted corbels) above the pillars and pilasters are molded with a median patta (band). Similar fluted corbel style is seen in later Pallava constructions. The potikas hold the uttira and above it vajana is running through out the kapota and extends to the lateral walls, pilasters and extends up to the floor. Above vajana the continuous band of valabi shown. The cornices appear irregularly shaped and the long groove running across the entire length of the facade serves to drain the rain water. The eastern lateral wall measures about 0.64 mts in width and western lateral wall measures about 1.70 mts in width. The floors of the facade and mukha mandapa are evenly leveled.

Taranga Potikas
Lotus Medallion
Makara Medallion
Lotus Medallion

The Mukha Mandapa

The rectangular mukha mandapa measures 5.91mts in north-south and 3.13mts in east-west directions. There is one niche on the eastern wall and three niches on the southern walls.

A koshta, measuring about 1.96 mts in height and 1.00 mts in width, at the centre of the eastern wall bears the bas relief image of Lord Brahma appear in standing posture. His right arm rests on his hip and the left arm holds the dried bottlegourd (சுரைக்குடுக்கை). The right rear arm holds flower and the left arm holds the palm-leaf manuscript. The deity wears jatamakuta, sacred thread (Yagyopavitam), sarapuli, udharabandha, keyura (tollvalai - தோள்வளை), thick bangles and the deity also wears a silk dhoti in pancha-kacha (பஞ்சகச்சம்) style.

Lord Brahma
The southern wall has three koshtas:

The first koshta at southern wall, measuring about 1.86 mts in length, 1.41 mts in width bears the unique dancing bas relief image of Lord Shiva and there are two Buta Ganas standing one on each side. The four armed Lord Shiva appears in chatura-tandavam (சதுர தாண்டவம்) posture (the 107th dance posture in the 108 dance postures of Shiva) with the left foot slightly raised into the air and the right foot firmly placed on the floor. The rear right hand holds the flower; the front right hand is holding the yajnopavita; the front left hand is extended above the shoulder (ardhapataka - அர்த்தபதாகா); and the rear left carries the palm-leaf manuscript. Braided locks are hanging at the back. The hair is dressed high in jatamukuta and bears a crescent moon to the proper left and the skull. He wears a palm-leaf coil as ear-ring at his right ear lobe and the left ear lobe appears long and empty. He also wears  yajnopavita, necklace, udara-bandha, serpentine spiral armlets, forearm band and anklets. The costume consists of short garment worn around the waist with an elaborate girdle decorated with a floral clasp in front. A thin sash runs around his waist. A serpent coils around the waist and thighs. The image, unique piece of its kind, is a very fine example of the early Pandya art. 

Shiva: Chatura Tandava Posture
The gana at the right side of the Lord exhibits the legs and other organs are mostly destroyed. The gana at right, wears karanta makutam (head gear) and palm leaf coil at ear-lobe, appears standing and playing the sirattai kinnari (சிரட்டைக் கிண்ணரி) (traditional Tamil musical instrument) with right hand.

The second koshta at the southern wall, measuring about 1.90 mts in height and 1.40 mts in width, bears four armed Lord Vishnu in standing posture and there are two Buta Ganas standing one on each side.  The rear  right hand holds the conch; the rear left hand carries the discuss wheel; the front left is resting on the waist; and the front right hand displays the palm around the waist. The costume consists of full lenth golden silk garment, pitambara as it is called  around the waist in pancha kacha (பஞ்சகச்சம்) style. He is adorned with ornaments like krita makutam with wheel, makara kundala on ear lobes, sarapali, armlets, fore-arm band, udhara bandha, and yajnopavita,  The Buta ganas (slightly destroyed) are wearing karanta makutam, palm leaf coil and short loin, and showing their faces towards audience and yet appear worshiping the Lord

Lord Vishnu


The third koshta at the southern wall, measuring about 1.68 mts in height and 1.34 mts in width, bears idampuri Pillaiyar appear in maharajaleelasanam. The rear  right hand holds the pasa; the rear left carries the tusk; the front left is resting on the belly; and the front right hand resting on the knee and holding the modhakam. He is adorned with ornaments like karanta makutam, armlets, fore-arm band, udhara bandha, and yajnopavita. The costume consists of small garment around the waist.

Pillaiyar


Sanctum


The sanctum excavated on the western wall, measuring about 0.96 mts in width and 1.66 mts in length, is a rectangular cell with a monolithic Shivalingam with square Avudaiyar (base). The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The plinth (prathivari bandha adhitanam) of the sanctum includes jagathi, vritta kumudham and prathivari elements. There are two niches one on either side of the sanctum entrance. The sanctum entrance is supported by two square pilasters. At the centre of the mukha mandapa floor a monolithic nandhi appear in a ruined state. Traces of early Pandya paintings are seen along prastara. 

Monolithic Nandhi (Ruined)
Monolithic Shivalinga (Avudaiyar / Bana)

The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 1.22mts in width and 1.32mts in length and to a height of 0.63 mts and the plinth of the avudaiyar is formed as a padabandha adhishthana with the elements of upana, jagati, vritta kumuda,  kantha with pada and flanked by kampa, pattika and upari kampa. The rock cut Vesara bana is 0.54 mts height.

Inscription: There is one inscription found on one of the pillars has been assigned to 11th century A.D. Another inscription (dilapidated) of  Pandya King Vallaba Devan (1090-1116 A.D.) noticed on the eastern side of the mukha mandapam records about the gifts including fertile lands with trees, deep wells and tanks to this temple by the king. Reports the royal order issued to the village sabha of Viranarayanamangalam in Thukavur kutram and the nattar of Varanavasipuram.

Inscription 1

Period: The date for this cave is assigned to the second half of the seventh Century A.D. and of Pandya style based on the architecture of the cave and from the images displaying few unique features. This is ascertained by the monolithic Shivalinga - carved out of the base rock, a feature which is not present in the Pallava caves of the same period and the presence of Pillaiyar bas relief.

Festival: A family from Kadampankulam is said to come to the temple every year on Thirukarthigai day and light a deepam with castor oil on a stone pit meant for the purpose. Also there are special pujas on every Pradosham Day and on Annual Tirukarthikai Day and Annual Maha Shivrathri Day.
Present Status: Centrally Protected Monument of National Importance. Preserved and maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India, Thrissur Circle.



The Second cave

The second cave is incomplete and located at the southern face of the hill. We have not visited this cave.

Getting there

Location Sankarankovil Taluk, Tirunelveli district PIN: 627857. The cave temple is 5 km from Kallidaikurichi 48.2 km from Tirunelveli and lies on the Senthamaram - Kallidaikurichi road.

After visiting the Thirumalapuram rock-cut cave we returned to Sankarankoil for lunch. After lunch our next visit will be to Malaiyadikurichi rock-cut cave.

Reference

  1. வீரசிகாமணிக் குடைவரையும் கல்வெட்டுக்களும். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு. நளினி, இரா. கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர். இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி. pp. 98 - 106
  2. திருமலாபுரம் குடைவரைகள். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு.நளினி, இரா.கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர்.இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி. pp. 106 - 119

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