Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 3.3: Kalugasalamurthy Rock cut cave and Kutralanathar Temple, Kutralaum

Facades of Kalugasalamurthy & Kutralanathawami Temples

Kalugasalamurthy Entrance Pillared Hall

Kalugasalamurthy rock cut cave temple excavated on the south-eastern slope of the low rising Araimalai hillock. The present rock cut cave temple has transformed into huge complex with the structural additions such as  shrines for associate (Parivara) deities, mandapas and cloister mandapas and holy water tank. The Lord Jambukesvara (form of Lord Shiva) appear as Shivalinga in the east facing sanctum at the mandapa and the goddess Akilandesvari also appears in a separate south facing sanctum. The pillared mandapa is supported by pillars with aesthetic bas relief sculptures.

The rock cut cave temple can be accessed through a mahamandapa or entrance pavilion (hall) which has two entrances, one at west and the other at north. The structural mahamandapa is actually an extension of the rock cut cave temple. There are two sanctums adjoining to the northern wall of the mahamandapa housing Lord Nataraja and Lord Arumuganayanar (Lord Muruga). The rock cut cave temple consists of a facade, mukha mandapa and sanctum.

Facade

Peacock Vehicle

The facade comprise two stupendous pillars in the middle and pilaster on both ends with the features of square, octagonal kattu and square. The pillars and pilasters are insulated with brass sheets. The original facade of the rock cut temple has been modified to suit the flight of steps and the plinth (floor) formation of the structural main mandapa. The facade, with evenly leveled floor,    is 2.05 mtr in the east - west and 6.30 mtr in the north - west.  The facade also extends by 6.46 mtr in the north - south and 60 cm in the east -west and the height is 2.08 mtr. The flight of four steps (only three in the north) leading to the mukha mandapa pass through the anganas of pillars.  The kapodabandha adishtanam of the facade comprise elements such as upana, supporting upana, thamarai, jagadi, eight patta kumuda, kantha with pada flanked by kampa, pattika and uparikampa and kapota.  

The octagonal kattu of pillars rest on the wide-angular vettu potikas (corbel brackets) which support the prastara elements such as uttara (beam), vajana and roof. The prastara elements also extends as unsculpted kapota. The north and south walls forming part of the mother rock extends evenly up to one mtr.

Mukha mandapa
 

Mukhamandapam From Mahamandapam

Another row of two pillars and two pilasters are cantoning the part of facade and mukha mandapa. The angana (space between pilaster and pillar) at north bears a brick wall partition. The south angana (between pilaster and pillar) modified with brick wall partition with an entrance to the rock cut sanctum. A flight of single step leads to the sanctum. The angana between the two pillars is also modified as the main entrance to the cave sanctum.  The brass sheet insulated pillars bear lotus medallions. The lintel of the main entrance (below the kapota insulated with brass sheet) shows makara torana with goddess Gajalakshmi at the center. The square section of the pillars and wide angular vettu potikas support the prastara elements like vajana and roof. 

Inner mandapa

An inner mandapa is located in between sanctum and mukha mandapa. measuring 6.50 mtrs in the south - north and 2.00 mtrs in the east - west and 2.77 mtrs in height.

Sanctum

 

Sanctum from the Main Mandapam

The flight of single step leads to the sanctum.  The sanctum is a cubical cell with 1.98mts in east-west and 2.48mts in north-south directions. The height of the sanctum is 2.48mts. The anterior wall of the sanctum is sectioned with the four pilasters. There are two platforms constructed adjoining to the south wall of inner mandapa and sanctum.  The sanctum houses Lord Kalugasalamurthy with consorts.

Lord Kalugasalamurthy appears with consorts in Cave sanctum

Lord Kalugasalamurthy appears seated on his pea-cock vehicle in utkudikasana posture. The Lord is accompanied by his two consorts: goddess Valli on his left and facing north and goddess Dheivanai on his right and facing south. The jewelry of the goddesses includes Karanda makuta, pathra kundalas, sarapali, armlets , bracelets and silk garments on their waist. Goddess Dheivanai alone wears breast band. The Lord wears Karanda makuta, patra kundala, pearl and rudrakha beads malas, and silk garments on his waist. Of the twelve hands the upper right hand holds vajra (thunderbolt), middle right  hand holds the khadga (sword), the lower right hand shows abhaya hasta mudra (gesture of fearlessness); the upper left hand holds saktivel (spear), middle hand khetaka (shield) and lower hand varada hasta mudra (gesture of generosity).

Inscriptions

The Vikrama Pandya's 15th regnal year inscription engraved before the sanctum of Lord Jambukesvarar (on the south wall) records the gift of fifty goats and one sheep to provide ghee for burning perpetual lamp by the Sri Rudramaheswara of this temple.  The inscription also mentions about the tank for collecting the ablution water. (ARE 1966: 349 / SII V: 307 - 406).

Period

The scholars have assigned the period of this rock cut temple structure to eighth century A.D. based on its architecture.

Kavadi Chindhu  of poet Annamalai Reddiar

Annamalai Reddiar of Chennimalai, in Tirunelveli district (1865 - 1890 / 1891), an ardent devotee, has composed the 'Kavadi Chindu,' one of the forms of light compositions in Tamil, in praise of Lord Kalugasalamurthy.  ‘Chindu’ means a couplet or poem in Tamil set to a particular meter. Kavadi Chindu, a kind of folk song is sung by ardent Muruga devotees as they carry the ‘kavadi’ to Muruga temples, typically located up on the hillocks, to ease out some of the strain and physical exhaustion resulting from the journey. The stanzas are highly popular for its simplicity, rhymes,  musical rhythm  and melody. The poet also has set to music in ragas like Sindhu Bhairavi, Chakravaham, Ananda Bhairavi, etc. He has also compiled the 'Thalapurana.' (Mythological history). Opposite to Kalugasalamurthy temple there is a small palace which served as local residence of Raja of Ettayapuram.

Reference

Kalugumalai kutaivarai (in Tamil). Nalini, M and Kalaikkovan R. Dr. Maa. Rasamanickanar varalarru ayvu maiyam, Tiruchirapalli. Dec 2009. pp. 76 - 80. (கழுகுமலை குடைவரை (தமிழ்). நளினி, மு; கலைக்கோவன் இரா. டாக்டர். மா. இராசமாணிக்கனார் வரலாற்று ஆய்வு மையம், திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி. டிசம்பர் 2009. பக்கங்கள். 76 - 80)

Lunch Session

 By 1.30 pm we were able to complete our Kalugumalai itinerary. We were so tired as well as hungry and therefore rushed for lunch at a dining hall in a temple choultry maintained by Kalugasalamurthy devasthanam. To our surprise Kizhakku Pathippagam staff have arranged a  delicious home made South Indian Variety Rice Lunch. We enjoyed the home made lunch and relaxed till 3.00 pm. We also had group photo sessions.

Travel to Kutralam

Location: 72 km from Kalugumalai; 55 kms from Tirunelveli; 6 kms from Tenkasi; Located in the Southern part of Tamil Nadu state, India.

Nearest Railway Station: Tenkasi or Senkottai

Nearest Airport: Madurai (around 200 kms)

How to reach: Easily reachable by road from Tirunelveli, Tenkasi, or Madurai

Since our itinerary for the Day 3 was tight, we planned to save as much time as possible. So the rest of the day's travel and night stay was planned at Kutralam (anglicised version is Courtalum), `the Spa of South.'  With new regained energy we continued our travel towards Kutralam (Courtallum), the land of cascading waterfalls. 

The entire travel route of 72 km between Kalugumalai and Kutralam was filled with lush green paddy fields and coconut groves and we traveled through the heritage towns like Puliyangudi, Kadayanallur, Ilanji, Tenkasi and countless picturesque villages.

We reached the town by 4.30 pm. After refreshment we rushed to the Kutralanathaswami temple near main falls.

Kutralanathaswami Temple (குற்றாலநாதசுவாமி கோவில்)

Entrance to Kutralanathaswami Temple

• Name of the Shrine: Kutralanathaswami Temple (குற்றாலநாதசுவாமி கோவில்)
• Other Names of the Shrine: Trikootaachalam, Tirukkutralam, Mukthiveli, Nannagram, Pithur Kanda, Theerthapuram, Thirunagaram and Vasanthaperur.
• Prime deity (மூலவர்): Lord Shiva appears here as Kutralanathaswami (குற்றாலநாதசுவாமி) aka Kuruambaleeswarar (குறும்பாலீஸ்வரர்). The main sanctum of this temple houses dwarf Shivalingam.
• Five Dance Halls of Lord Nataraja: Kutralam represents one of the 5 Pancha Sabhas (பஞ்ச சபை) of Nataraja - Chitra Sabhai (சித்திர சபை).  
• Amman shrine: Goddess Kuzhalvoymozhi (குழல்வாய்மொழி அம்மை) appears in a separate sanctum on the southern side of prime deity.
• Inner Periphery (உள்பிரகாரம்) - Associate Deities (பரிவார தேவதைகள்): The peedams of Annavi Pillai (அண்ணாவி பிள்ளை) and the other associate deities appear before Amman shrine. Lord Kailasanathar appears on the southern corridor and goddess Durga on the northern corridor.
• Outer Periphery (வெளிப்பிரகாரம்) - Associate Deities (பரிவார தேவதைகள்): Vallabha Ganapathi (வல்லபகணபதி), 63 Nayanmars, Sahasralingam (one thousand lingam), Papanasar - Ulagamman, Nellaiyappar - Gandhimathi, Manakkolanathar (மணக்கோலநாதர் (சிவன்), Narumbunathar, Sankaralinganathar, Pavalavannathar - Oppanai Amman, Chokkalingam - Meenakshi Amman, Madunatheswarar - Aramvalartha Nayagi, Kasi Viswanathar - Visalakshi, Bairavar, Nannagara Perumal (நன்னகரப்பெருமாள்), Navagraha, sage Agastyar and others.
• Holy Tree: Dwarf Jack fruit tree (Kurumpalaa) (குறும்பலா) (Artocarpus heterophyllus)
• Holy water: The main falls (Shivamadhuganga சிவமதுகங்கை), Vadaaruvi (வட அருவி) and Chitra River (சித்ரா நதி)
• Holy Hymn: Invoked in Tevaram (தேவாரம்), Tiruvasagam (திருவாசகம்), Tirukkovaiyar (திருக்கோவையார்) hymns by Tevaram foursome (தேவர நால்வர்) (Appar, Sambandar, Sundarar and Manickavasagar). The name Kutralam finds its place for the first time in Tevaram. Sekkizhar also glorifies the town and the Lord in his  Periapuranam. Sages like Pattinathar and Arunagirinathar have also sung stanzas in praise of the Lord.
• Literature: Tirikootaraasappa kavirayar's (திரிகூடராசப்பகவிராயர்) well known work Kutrala Kuravanji (குற்றாலக்குறவஞ்சி), poetic drama (இசைநாடகம்) (composed during 19th century A.D.) glorifies this shrine. This unique Tamil poetic form has Vasanthalakshmi as heroine, Sinki (Kurathi), nomadic tribal woman and foreteller making predictions about the hero and Sinkan (Kuravan) her husband. He has also compiled the Shrine history of Kutralam (குற்றாலத் தலபுராணம்).

Legends:

Pothigai Hills

Sage Agastyar (அகஸ்திய முனிவர்), at the instruction of Lord Shiva, proceeded to the south (Pothihgai Hills) to stabilize the imbalance of the earth. The Devas and all other celestial beings assembled at Mount Kailash (abode of Lord Shiva) in Himalayas to witness the celestial wedding of Lord Shiva and goddess Parvati. This resulted the imbalance of the earth. At Kutralam shrine (originally the Vaishnava shrine) sage Agastya was prevented at the entrance by the Dwarpalakas of Lord Vishnu. Sage Aagastya invoked Lord Kumaran (Lord Muruga) of Ilanji (இலஞ்சி) (2 km. away from Kutralam).

Agastyar

Lord Kumaran instructed Agastya to enter into Kutralam shrine and  he entered the shrine disguised as Mularikanna, a Vaishnavite devotee from Tirupati. Agastya followed the instruction and entered into the shrine and directed the priest to fetch flowers for archana. Thereafter the sage took "Omni-form" or "Viswaroopa" (விஸ்வரூபம்) before Lord Vishnu and put his hand on the head of the the Vishnu deity and pushed it  to shrink into extremely dwarf Shivalingam. Thus Kutralam was transformed as the Saivite shrine. Lord Shiva showed himself here as Bhrama and Vishnu.

History

This temple has more than 2000 years old history. It is believed that the temple was constructed even before 5th century B.C. Since Sangam literature (சங்க இலக்கியம்) describes the 'Pothigai' hills (பொதிகை மலை), Kutralam town could have been one among the towns of Sangam period.

“பொற்கோட்டு இமயமும் பொதியமும் போன்றே” (புறம் 2:8) புறநானூற்றுப் பாடல் 

""வடவர் தந்த வான் கேழ் வட்டம் / குட புல உறுப்பின் (அகம். 340.16-17-வடநாட்டில் உள்ளவர் கொண்டு வந்த வெண்ணிற வட்டக் கல்லில் மேற்கே உள்ள பொதிகை மலை)

The Ay dynasty ruled parts of southern India from the early Sangam age to the 10th century AD. Among the Ay (ஆய்) rulers of the Sangam Age, Ay Antiran (ஆய் அண்டிரன்) is  the most outstanding chieftain of this Velir clan. The Velirs were regarded as the 3rd chain of Philanthropists (கடை ஏழு வள்ளல்கள்). Ay Antiran's name is mentioned in the Purananuru as the lord of Podiyil Malaya in southern Western Ghats.

Dwarf Jack fruit (Holy) Tree

Kochenganan (கோச்செங்கனான்), the Chola monarch of early Sangam era, built number of temples in Tamilakam. He also set forth the specific tree as the 'holy tree' (Sthala Vriksham) (தலவிருட்சம்) for that specific shrine. Thus Kutralanathaswami shrine was associated with Jack fruit tree (குறும்பலா) aka Artocarpus heterophyllus. From the foregoing evidences lead the scholars to believe that Kutralanathaswami worship could have existed since from Sangam period. Poet Kapiladeva Nayanar (புலவர் கபிலதேவ நாயனார் aka கபிலபரணர்), believed to have lived during 10th century A.D., describes Kutralam town in poetical work 'Sivaperuman Tiruvandadhi' (சிவபெருமான் திருவந்தாதி) as:

   கொக்கரங் குற்றாலம் கூற்றின் பொருள் முயன்ற குற்றாலம் ('Kokarang kutralam koorrin porul muyanra Kutralam')

    கொழுந்தேன் கமழ் சோலைக் குற்றாலம் ('Kozhunthen kamazh solaik Kutralam') 

Lord Nataraja Chitra Sabha

Kutralam is one among the five dance floors (பஞ்ச சபை) of Lord Nataraja (Shiva). It is known as Chitra sabha (சித்திர சபை). Among 14 Shiva shrines of Pandya country, Kutralam is believed to the most ancient. Parasakthi Peetam (பராசக்தி பீடம்), one among the 64 Sakti peetams (சக்தி பீடம்), forms part of Kutralanathaswami temple. The peetam is also known as Yoga peetam, Dharani peetam (தரணி பீடம்) and Arutparasakthi peetam.


Architecture: 

The temple has a conch (சங்கு) shaped corridor (Prakaram) plan and is referred to as  Sangakkovil. The present Kutralanathaswami temple was constructed by the Chola monarch Rajaraja Chola I (முதலாம் இராசராச சோழன்) and built the wall around the inner corridor. Archaeologist claim that there was a Vishnu shrine on the left of the prime deity. The Pandya kings built the sanctum, ardha mandapa, separate sanctum for goddess Kulalvai mozhi amman and Pillayan Kattalai mandapa (பிள்ளையன் கட்டளை மண்டபம்). Nayakka rulers constructed the temple for Parasakthi, periphery wall, inner streets, Sangu street (சங்கு வீதி), new sanctums for some associate deities. The ancient sanctum meant for Vishnu is now being converted as Vagana room. Kings of Vadakarai Aadhikkam (வடகரை ஆதிக்கம்) of Sokkampatti (சொக்கம்பட்டி) built the Thirikooda mandapam (திரிகூட மண்டபம்), Pasupirai (பசுபிறை), Thattodi (தட்டோடி), vaitheeyappa vilasam (வைத்தியப்ப விலாசம்), the mahamandapam of Kulalvai mozhi amman, sangai veethi and kalpavuthal (கல்பாவுதல்) at vasantha veethi. 

Inscriptions

Inscription on the Pillar

Kutralanathaswami temple has 89 inscriptions in total.  Of the 89, ten inscriptions discovered on the east and west walls of the first periphery records the gifts of cow, sheep, goat, buffalo for burning perpetual lamp (நந்தா விளக்கு) and endowments of land, gold and coins to the Tirukutrala Perumal temple by the Chola monarch Madiraikonda Ko-Parakesarivarman (மதிரை கொண்ட கோப்பரகேசரிவர்மன்) aka Parantaka Chola I (முதலாம் பராந்தக சோழன்) (907–955 A.D.). In the entire Pandya country, the inscriptions of Parantaka Chola I in Tamil Vattezhuthu (தமிழ் வட்டெழுத்து)  script were discovered only in Kutralanathaswami temple.

Inscription in Vattezhuthu script on the east wall of the first prakara Kuttalanathasvami temple assignable to Parantaka I

Inscription

It records a gift of 26 cows for burning a perpetual lamp in the temple of Tirukkurralattu-Perumal (திருக்குற்றாலத்துப் பெருமாள்) by Adittan Muvenda-Palla[varaiyan] (ஆதித்தன் மூவேந்த பல்லவராயன்) of Arrur in Tiruppanangattu-nadu (திருப்பனங்காட்டு நாடு) in Solanadu.  (A.R. No. 444 of 1917) (The inscription mentions the name of the Lord as ‘Tirukkurralattu-Perumal’ )

It records a gift of 26 cows for burning a perpetual lamp in the temple by Dharma-setti (தர்ம செட்டி) alias Sadaiyan Kavayan (சடையன் கவயன்) a member of the Manigramam (மணிக்கிராமம்) (guild) at . . . . in Tenvara-nadu. (A.R. No. 439 of 1917)

vatteluttu script and is damaged.  It records a gift of cows for burning a perpetual lamp in the temple by a lady by name Ariyampoduviyar (அறியாம்பொதுவையார்) wife of [Na]ranappallavaraiyar (நாரணப்பல்லவராயர் ). (A.R. No. 442 of 1917)

It records a gift of 25 sheep for burning a lamp with an ulakku of ghee (உழக்கு நெய்) every day in the temple of Mahadeva (மகாதேவ) at Tirukkurralam by one Nakkan Appi Tirumurtti (நக்கன் அப்பி திருமூர்த்தி).   (A.R. No. 428 of 1917) (This inscription observe the Lord's name as  ‘Mahadeva at Tirukkurralam' )

22nd regnal  year of Parantaka I. This is a damaged Vatteluttu inscription assignable to Parantaka I. It records gift of 16 ma of land for burning a perpetual lamp in the temple at Tirukkurralam in Tenvari-nadu (தென்வரி நாடு) by Kandan Iravi (கந்தன் இரவி), made on the day of a solar eclipse (சூரிய கிரகணம்). (A. R. No. 441 of 1917.)

35 regnal year of Parantaka I It  records a gift of 6 buffaloes for burning a perpetual lamp in the temple at Tirukkurralam in Tenvari-nadu ((தென்வரி நாடு)) by Kovadi Kdnra ... a ywwv  Vellala resident of Vallapuram in Mala-nadu. (A.R. No. 447 of 1917) (The inscriptions of Paranthaka also cite the date and time of the 'solar eclipse' which enabled the scholars to precisely compute the period of Paranthaka I. ). There is also one inscription in Tamil script.  

Three inscriptions of Rajaraja Chola I (முதலாம் இராசராச சோழன்) discovered on the western wall of the first periphery records the renovation work carried over the dilapidated structure as well as the construction of new mandapas. The Chola monarch also copied the Vattezhuthu Tamil inscriptions and inscribed back after renovation. The prime deity was mentioned in his inscriptions as 'Kutralathu Bhattaragar' (குற்றாலத்து பட்டாரகர்). The Chola emperor also left an inscription (which is not readable now) to tell us about structural additions made to this temple as well as the transformation  of Tamil script from Vattezhuthu Tamil script. The fragmented inscription of Rajendra Chola I (முதலாம் இராசேந்திர சோழன்) discovered on the third pillar of the eastern corridor in the first periphery. 

Palmyra Sap + Tender Palm Fruit 

On our way to Chitra Sabha, we were invited by the vendor selling Pathaneer (பதநீர்) (palmyrah sap) with Nungu (நுங்கு) or tender palm fruit or ice apple cocktail. All tourists gathered around his bicycle carrying a pot full of palm juice and bunches of  nungu. The cocktail juice was served in fan shaped palmyra (Borassus) leaf (பனை மட்டை) folded like a pot and we consumed it in gulps.

Chitra Sabha (Murals)

The Chitra Sabhai aka the hall of paintings is located nearer to the main temple. There is a holy water tank before Chitra Sabhai. Architecturally rich Chitrasabha showcaes hundreds of murals on the walls depicticting scenes from Hindu Puranas. Chitra Sabha murals are drawn out of medicinal herbs. The wooden carved planks serve as doors, beams, cornices and roof structure. The temple authorities have conserved the paintings and they appear bright with modern touch. The roof of the painting hall is covered with copper sheets. Unfortunately they are not allowing photography.


Kutralam 'the Spa of South'

Main Falls

Kutralum is situated at an elevation of about 167m (520 ft) on the Western Ghats. Numerous rivers such as the Chittar River (சித்தாறு), the Manimuthar River (மணிமுத்தாறு), and the Pachaiyar River (பச்சையாறு) originate here. The mother nature's own water slides from the peaks of mountains and drops from hundreds of feet as small cascades as well as thundering waterfalls. It is certainly a feast to our eyes to watch the surreal landscape and the water cascades from every ledge and crevice. 

Five Falls

Snuggled in the Western Ghats, there are nine waterfalls in 10 Sq.km area around Kutralam town. The main falls located near the temple. Five falls (Aintharuvi - ஐந்தருவி) lies 4 km away from main falls.  Small falls (Chittaruvi - சித்தருவி) lies between main fall and five falls. Chembakadevi falls (செம்பகாதேவி அருவி) lies deep into the forest and devotees visit this falls and Agastya temple on full moon days. Honey falls (Thenaruvi - தேனருவி) is located still more deep into the thick forest. Old falls (Old Kutralam falls - பழைய குற்றாலம் அருவி) is 8 km away from the town. On your way to Old falls you may find Tiger falls (Puliaruvi - புலியருவி). Also there are two falls New falls (Puthiyaruvi - புதியருவி) and fruits garden falls (Pazhathotta aruvi - பழத்தோட்ட அருவி).  It is believed that the water has medicinal and therapeutic properties and also cures physical ailments since it flows through forests full of herbs. Therefore this popular health resort attracts tourists to have bath, enjoy the soothing effects of water current and to get relieved from pains and body aches rapidly and regain energy. With the advent of the season the oil masseurs (use til oil, sandal oil and herbal oils) are in great demand.

Kutralam has moderately chilling climate throughout the year and filled with scenic surroundings. During the season (period June to September in every year) thousands of tourists from far and near visit this place to enjoy the sizzling of rain drops of 'Saral' (சாரல்) season and cool breeze from Pothikai hills (பொதிகைத் தென்றல்). The town also markets spices like clove and cardamom and exotic varieties of fruits such as jack fruit, mangoostan, doarian, ramdan, egg fruit etc.

Our Stay at Kutralam: Merriment and Gaiety

Hotel Saral Resort

During night we stayed at Hotel Saral Resorts at Shengottai Road. The surrounding of the hotel was calm and quiet. The room was spacious, clean and maintained hygienic with all the amenities. The food at the hotel was delicious. It is a nice place to stay.

After refreshing coffee few of us went to the Main falls for bathing. One can bath safely at anytime at the main falls even in midnight. The `bath police' is there to regulate the crowd. The flow of water in this main falls will be depending up on the rain fall in the catchment region in Kerala. However main falls will have little flow of water even during summer. The scenic beauty of Chitar river sliding from top of Sahya mountain and falling with thunderous rhythm. We found both ladies and gents were enjoying the water current under the falls. Water droplets  moisturize the air and make the atmosphere very chilling . We had the fun time under the falls.

Double Bedroom

The restaurant of  Hotel Saral served buffets of the appetizing delicacies of South Indian menu for dinner. After peaceful sleep in the hotel room, every one joined for a bath in the early morning at five falls (Aintharuvi). The water flow was minimum. Yet we enjoyed our bath for an hour. After bath we packed our luggage and vaccated the hotel and assembled for breakfast in the restaurant. The South Indian breakfast was scrumptious. Now we are ready for our Day 3 journey.


Reference

Thiru Courtrallanathar Swamy Temple. Courtrallam (TNHRCE Website)

Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 2.1: Virasigamani and Tirumalapuram Cave Temples

On 22 January 2015 at 08.10 pm our Pandyan Yatra commenced from Egmore Railway station  and a team of 24 participants boarded the Nellai Express bound for Tirunelveli.   Our train reached Kovilpatti by 07 15 am next morning. Initially we planned to stay at Kovilpatti itself and visit Kazhugumalai. Since there was the marriage function of a local VIP, our hotel stay was shifted to Tirunelveli. The drivers of our two cabs  were waiting at Kovilpatti station. From Kovilpatti we continued our Yatra by road to Tirunelveli and reached our hotel at Tirunelveli at 08.15 am. After bath we finished the complimentary breakfast and set out for the day’s journey by around 9:30 am.

We have planned to travel between Chennai and Tirunelveli by train in both directions and to cover about twenty places in five days by 12 passenger van. A 12 seater van is the perfect solution for groups who want to take a long road trip and the van trip was exciting, rewarding, and, at times, thoroughly testing way to travel.

Day 1: Sankarankovil Region: 

Sankarankovil is a Taluk in Tirunelveli District of Tamil Nadu State, India. Pandyans, Cholas, Cheras etc ruled Sankarankovil region. Portions of Sankarankoil Taluk have the rich, fertile black soil which is highly suitable for cotton cultivation. Cotton is being cultivated mainly in Sankarankovil taluk. Alluvial gypsum occurs in the Sankarankoil taluk. the mineral is being utilized chiefly of cement manufacture. Sankarankoil is the second largest town and taluk headquarters in Tirunelveli district, Tamil Nadu. We planned to cover Malaiyadikurichi cave, Tirumalapuram cave and Singampatti Zamin Palace. Due to paucity of time we have cancelled our visit to Singampatti Zamin palace. Instead we included the Virasigamani Rock-cut cave. Our first stop was Virasigamani Rock-cut cave.

Virasigamani Rock-cut cave, 

Name: Kailayanathar Cave Temple, Virasigamani (வீரசிகாமணி)
Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 11.30 and 12.30 am.
Category: Early Pandya Rock-cut cave at Veerasigamani

Architecture Style: Early Pandya style

Architecture: The entire rock-cut cave temple is protected by the perimeter wall on three sides. There is a nandhi mandapam with nandhi statue (later addition). The rock-cut cave has a facade, mukha mandapam and the sanctum.

Nandhi Mantapa

Cave covered with Perimeter wall

The external rock slope outside the cave temple bears two koshtas At the southern part of the koshta bears a Pillaiyar (Vinayaka) bas relief image and the northern part of the koshta contains Vishnu  (doubtful identity) bas relief image.

Pillaiyar in koshta

Vishnu (?) in Koshta

The Facade

The facade measures about 0.60 mts and 4.94 mts in east-west and north-south directions. The facade of the cave has been cut inwards leading to overhanging cornice. The cornice is devoid of any architectural element such as kudu or mini-shrines etc.

Facade of cave: Plinth (Padabandha Adhishtana)

Cave Facade

The facade has 90 cm high platform (padabandha adhishtana) comprised of, from below to top upana, jagati, eight-patta kumuda, kantha and pattika. Above the pattika the mother rock forms the evenly paved upper floor surface.  The facade also bears two pillars in the middle and two pilasters on both sides forming part of the side walls of the mother rock. Pillars and pilasters forming three spaces between the pillars (anganas). The  anganas in the facade are almost equal. The middle angana forms the entrance to the cave with the flight of three-step staircase in middle front of the cave with balustrades on either sides.

Facade of cave: Flight of 3 step staircase

 The pillars are in usual early rock-cut cave style, cubical top and bottom (Brahma kanta) with intermediate octagonal shaft (Vishnu kanta). The upper cubical parts of the pillars facing north and south are adorned with lotus medallions.  The Taranga potikas (fluted corbels) above the pillars and pilasters are molded with a median patta (band). Similar fluted corbel style is seen in later Pallava constructions.

Taranga Potikas (fluted corbels)

The Mukha Mandapa

The rectangular mukha mandapa measures about 5.52mts in north-south and 3.68mts in east-west directions. The front wall to the sanctum has flight of single-step staircase in middle front of the cave with balustrades on either sides. The niches on both sides are arched in the top. The roof and Vajana of the mukha mandapa are damaged.

Two niches, flanked by square pillars, are found at the middle of the each lateral wall (south and north walls) of the mukha mandapa. The niche at the south measuring about 0.79 mts in width and 1.78 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Dharma (Mahabharata).  The niche at the north measuring about 0.91 mts in width and 1.81 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Sahadeva (Mahabharata).  The projecting niche at the rear wall of the mandapa measuring about 0.71 mts in width and 1.41 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Nakula (Mahabharata).

The Sanctum

The sanctum is a rectangular cell with a monolithic Shivalingam with square Avudaiyar. The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 1.35mts in width and 1.55mts in length and to a height of 0.66mts and the plinth of the avudaiyar is formed as a padabandha adhishtana with the elements of jagati, kumuda, kantha with pada and flanked by kampa, pattika and upari kampa. The rock cut Vesara bana is 0.59mts height. The gomukha is seen on the northern side of the avudaiyar with a spout like formation.

Sanctum: Monolithic Shivalingam

The Dwarapalakas

The side niches have two dwarapalakas (door guards), one on each side of the doorway. The dwarapalaka in the left niche to the entrance is showing in 'tribhanga' posture one leg bent at the knee another leg resting on the ground and leaning imperiously on a club entwined by a cobra. His head gear is slightly strange - with karantamukuta and beneath his hair cluster fall in beautifully on his shoulders. He appears wearing all the ornaments like necklaces, kankans (forehand armlets),  keyuras (armlets), udara banda (waist belt) etc, are worn by him. The dwarapalaka on the right niche assumes distinctly different pose from the first. He has his left hand resting on his waist and the right hand with bent at the elbow and extending towards his right side. The sacred thread worn by him extends from left shoulder to the right shoulder and the iconography suggesting the date as 7th or 8th century A.D.  His head and trunk slightly bent to exhibit a magical force, and his hair is arranged like a jatamakuta with jata-bhara behind their head. 

Dwarapalaka 1

Dwarapalaka 2

Inscription: A vattezhuthu inscription dated in the 8th regnal year of Sundara Chola Pandya (ARE 1908 : 40) is found on the south facing top square section of the northern pilaster at the mandapam. The inscription speaks about the perpetual lamp donated to this temple.

Inscription

Period: There is no inscription evidence regarding the origin of this cave shrine is traceable. Nevertheless scholars consider the origin as later part of the 7th century A.D. based on the cave architecture and bas relief images.

Getting there

Veerasigamani PIN: 627862, is located in the taluk of Sankarankovil, district of Tirunelveli, in the State of Tamil Nadu. The village lies on the Sankarankovil - Puliangudi road.
Railway station: Kadaynallur Railway station
Airport: Tuticorin Airport- 85 km and Trivandrum International Airport- 100 km

Tirumalapuram Rock-cut cave 

Tirumalapuram Rock-cut cave

Name: Pasupathynathewarar Cave Temple, Tirumalapuram (திருமலாபுரம்)

Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 12.30 and 01.30 pm.
Category: There are two types of monuments (1) North facing rock-cut cave at Tirumalapuram under worship fully or partially and (2) Unfinished rock cut cave on the other side of the hillock which is not under worship.
Hillock: Varanachi Hillock

Architecture Style: Early Pandya style
The rock-cut cave has a facade, mukha mandapam and the sanctum and the cave at the north face of the hillock is excavated about 200 meters above the ground and can be reached by steep flight of steps constructed by Thrissur Circle, ASI.

The Facade

Facade: Tirumalapuram cave

The facade of the rock cut cave abuts the mukha mandapa and measures about 0.90 mts in width in  east-west direction and 5.49mts in length in north-south direction. The mother rock extends from the facade as side walls, floor and cornice. The facade has two pillars in the middle and two pilasters on both ends. The pillars are in usual early rock-cut cave style, cubical top and bottom (Brahma kanta) with intermediate octagonal shaft (Vishnu kanta). Except the southern face all other faces of the upper cubical parts of the pillars are adorned with lotus medallions and resembles with Pallava lotus medallions. The medallion at the north face of the upper square is bound by two circles and there is makara at the center and the inner circle is decorated with kodikarukku. The east face of the upper square pilasters show lotus medallions The Taranga potikas (fluted corbels) above the pillars and pilasters are molded with a median patta (band). Similar fluted corbel style is seen in later Pallava constructions. The potikas hold the uttira and above it vajana is running through out the kapota and extends to the lateral walls, pilasters and extends up to the floor. Above vajana the continuous band of valabi shown. The cornices appear irregularly shaped and the long groove running across the entire length of the facade serves to drain the rain water. The eastern lateral wall measures about 0.64 mts in width and western lateral wall measures about 1.70 mts in width. The floors of the facade and mukha mandapa are evenly leveled.

Taranga Potikas

Lotus Medallion

Makara Medallion

Lotus Medallion

The Mukha Mandapa

The rectangular mukha mandapa measures 5.91mts in north-south and 3.13mts in east-west directions. There is one niche on the eastern wall and three niches on the southern walls.

A koshta, measuring about 1.96 mts in height and 1.00 mts in width, at the centre of the eastern wall bears the bas relief image of Lord Brahma appear in standing posture. His right arm rests on his hip and the left arm holds the dried bottlegourd (சுரைக்குடுக்கை). The right rear arm holds flower and the left arm holds the palm-leaf manuscript. The deity wears jatamakuta, sacred thread (Yagyopavitam), sarapuli, udharabandha, keyura (tollvalai - தோள்வளை), thick bangles and the deity also wears a silk dhoti in pancha-kacha (பஞ்சகச்சம்) style.

Lord Brahma

The southern wall has three koshtas:

The first koshta at southern wall, measuring about 1.86 mts in length, 1.41 mts in width bears the unique dancing bas relief image of Lord Shiva and there are two Buta Ganas standing one on each side. The four armed Lord Shiva appears in chatura-tandavam (சதுர தாண்டவம்) posture (the 107th dance posture in the 108 dance postures of Shiva) with the left foot slightly raised into the air and the right foot firmly placed on the floor. The rear right hand holds the flower; the front right hand is holding the yajnopavita; the front left hand is extended above the shoulder (ardhapataka - அர்த்தபதாகா); and the rear left carries the palm-leaf manuscript. Braided locks are hanging at the back. The hair is dressed high in jatamukuta and bears a crescent moon to the proper left and the skull. He wears a palm-leaf coil as ear-ring at his right ear lobe and the left ear lobe appears long and empty. He also wears  yajnopavita, necklace, udara-bandha, serpentine spiral armlets, forearm band and anklets. The costume consists of short garment worn around the waist with an elaborate girdle decorated with a floral clasp in front. A thin sash runs around his waist. A serpent coils around the waist and thighs. The image, unique piece of its kind, is a very fine example of the early Pandya art. 

Shiva: Chatura Tandava Posture

The gana at the right side of the Lord exhibits the legs and other organs are mostly destroyed. The gana at right, wears karanta makutam (head gear) and palm leaf coil at ear-lobe, appears standing and playing the sirattai kinnari (சிரட்டைக் கிண்ணரி) (traditional Tamil musical instrument) with right hand.

The second koshta at the southern wall, measuring about 1.90 mts in height and 1.40 mts in width, bears four armed Lord Vishnu in standing posture and there are two Buta Ganas standing one on each side.  The rear  right hand holds the conch; the rear left hand carries the discuss wheel; the front left is resting on the waist; and the front right hand displays the palm around the waist. The costume consists of full lenth golden silk garment, pitambara as it is called  around the waist in pancha kacha (பஞ்சகச்சம்) style. He is adorned with ornaments like krita makutam with wheel, makara kundala on ear lobes, sarapali, armlets, fore-arm band, udhara bandha, and yajnopavita,  The Buta ganas (slightly destroyed) are wearing karanta makutam, palm leaf coil and short loin, and showing their faces towards audience and yet appear worshiping the Lord. 

Lord Vishnu

The third koshta at the southern wall, measuring about 1.68 mts in height and 1.34 mts in width, bears idampuri Pillaiyar appear in maharajaleelasanam. The rear  right hand holds the pasa; the rear left carries the tusk; the front left is resting on the belly; and the front right hand resting on the knee and holding the modhakam. He is adorned with ornaments like karanta makutam, armlets, fore-arm band, udhara bandha, and yajnopavita. The costume consists of small garment around the waist.

Pillaiyar

Sanctum


The sanctum excavated on the western wall, measuring about 0.96 mts in width and 1.66 mts in length, is a rectangular cell with a monolithic Shivalingam with square Avudaiyar (base). The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The plinth (prathivari bandha adhitanam) of the sanctum includes jagathi, vritta kumudham and prathivari elements. There are two niches one on either side of the sanctum entrance. The sanctum entrance is supported by two square pilasters. At the centre of the mukha mandapa floor a monolithic nandhi appear in a ruined state. Traces of early Pandya paintings are seen along prastara. 

Monolithic Nandhi (Ruined)

Monolithic Shivalinga (Avudaiyar / Bana)

The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 1.22mts in width and 1.32mts in length and to a height of 0.63 mts and the plinth of the avudaiyar is formed as a padabandha adhishthana with the elements of upana, jagati, vritta kumuda,  kantha with pada and flanked by kampa, pattika and upari kampa. The rock cut Vesara bana is 0.54 mts height.

Inscription: There is one inscription found on one of the pillars has been assigned to 11th century A.D. Another inscription (dilapidated) of  Pandya King Vallaba Devan (1090-1116 A.D.) noticed on the eastern side of the mukha mandapam records about the gifts including fertile lands with trees, deep wells and tanks to this temple by the king. Reports the royal order issued to the village sabha of Viranarayanamangalam in Thukavur kutram and the nattar of Varanavasipuram.

Inscription 1

Period: The date for this cave is assigned to the second half of the seventh Century A.D. and of Pandya style based on the architecture of the cave and from the images displaying few unique features. This is ascertained by the monolithic Shivalinga - carved out of the base rock, a feature which is not present in the Pallava caves of the same period and the presence of Pillaiyar bas relief.

Festival: A family from Kadampankulam is said to come to the temple every year on Thirukarthigai day and light a deepam with castor oil on a stone pit meant for the purpose. Also there are special pujas on every Pradosham Day and on Annual Tirukarthikai Day and Annual Maha Shivrathri Day.

Present Status: Centrally Protected Monument of National Importance. Preserved and maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India, Thrissur Circle.



The Second cave

The second cave is incomplete and located at the southern face of the hill. We have not visited this cave.

Getting there

Location Sankarankovil Taluk, Tirunelveli district PIN: 627857. The cave temple is 5 km from Kallidaikurichi 48.2 km from Tirunelveli and lies on the Senthamaram - Kallidaikurichi road.

After visiting the Thirumalapuram rock-cut cave we returned to Sankarankoil for lunch. After lunch our next visit will be to Malaiyadikurichi rock-cut cave.

Reference

1. வீரசிகாமணிக் குடைவரையும் கல்வெட்டுக்களும். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு. நளினி, இரா. கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர். இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி. pp. 98 - 106
2. திருமலாபுரம் குடைவரைகள். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு.நளினி, இரா.கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர்.இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி. pp. 106 - 119